Shafts and outdrives problem - sketer

[KnowAir]

Can you explain the difference in driving the K6 versus the XTR?

For me, the XTR turns better, better turn in, as well as tighter radius, the kraton pushes through turns, and the rear washes out. I don't doubt that with tuning the kraton can do better than out of the box. Of course these are bashers so handling isn't the manufacturer's goal either. I'm not a fan of the LSD in the Arrma's myself.
I should add that I have also run the k6 on backflip lp's, and it does indeed handle better with them than the MT's. Also, with max6/4092, I am sure the handling also suffers. Not putting the k6 down by any means. The k6 with that combo on backflip lp's proved to be too much for the LP's to take, they started peeling off the rim, as well as having some slices in the sidewalls. The max6/4092 is actually too much for what I do (but all I had to use ATM). Which is mainly running on a track. I haven't been able to give a fair comparison between the 2 for the record, this is just more a seat of the pants evaluation between the two.

 

[HZRDOS]

For me, the XTR turns better, better turn in, as well as tighter radius, the kraton pushes through turns, and the rear washes out. I don't doubt that with tuning the kraton can do better than out of the box. Of course these are bashers so handling isn't the manufacturer's goal either. I'm not a fan of the LSD in the Arrma's myself.

I have the same issues with my Kraton and OC6s steering. ha. Lot has to do with the servo saver I think. I have found that moving to 100k front fluid, keeping the rear light around 20k helps. The front pulls the rear around that way, but still not near as well as my Tekno MT410 or Sketer steering.

I do not use the LSD's - but I do use the 29mm EXB diffs. I have a special way to shim them and remove the LSD plates (I don't use the Arrma thick shims).

 

[KnowAir]

I have the same issues with my Kraton and OC6s steering. ha. Lot has to do with the servo saver I think. I have found that moving to 100k front fluid, keeping the rear light around 20k helps. The front pulls the rear around that way, but still not near as well as my Tekno MT410 or Sketer steering.

I do not use the LSD's - but I do use the 29mm EXB diffs. I have a special way to shim them and remove the LSD plates (I don't use the Arrma thick shims).

I did see your post over on AF about it ( I think it was you?). Good write up, I do plan on using your setup when the time comes, thanks for sharing
I haven't had a need to open up the diffs on any of my Arrmas or TC rigs yet, well, except when the screw backed out of the center diff on the xtr.. I actually topped it off with 10k fluid since I prefer my diffs to be more free than locked up..all I had on hand were 100 or 10k.. I would have preffered something in between but..
I have to revisit the MT410..I originally built it out by the manual with 100k in the front and center but wasn't happy with the handling. I replaced the front with 50k but it still pushes the front end too much for my liking. That, combined with the short wheelbase makes for a great stunt truck that it's meant to be, but I find myself on the track more than anywhere else so the MT410 hasn't been getting much use. Shame, cuz it's soo light and fast.

 

[HZRDOS]

I did see your post over on AF about it ( I think it was you?). Good write up, I do plan on using your setup when the time comes, thanks for sharing
I haven't had a need to open up the diffs on any of my Arrmas or TC rigs yet, well, except when the screw backed out of the center diff on the xtr.. I actually topped it off with 10k fluid since I prefer my diffs to be more free than locked up..all I had on hand were 100 or 10k.. I would have preffered something in between but..

You can mix them. Do that all the time. Just add some of one (thicker first), then the other. First time you hit the throttle - it will mix to the new weight. They have online calculators to know how much of each (based on %).

 

[KnowAir]

You can mix them. Do that all the time. Just add some of one (thicker first), then the other. First time you hit the throttle - it will mix to the new weight. They have online calculators to know how much of each (based on %).

I should have clarified.. when I change fluids, it's dump n fill. I don't bother tearing them completely apart unless something is not working properly. More of my laziness I guess
The xtr center diff was no where near full as per what seems to be the norm with these things.

My assessment of the k6 handling is probably all wrong since my build is bass backwards..big motor and tires combined with an anemic 25kg servo soo..

 

[HZRDOS]

I should have clarified.. when I change fluids, it's dump n fill. I don't bother tearing them completely apart unless something is not working properly. More of my laziness I guess
The xtr center diff was no where near full as per what seems to be the norm with these things.

My assessment of the k6 handling is probably all wrong since my build is bass backwards..big motor and tires combined with an anemic 25kg servo soo..

HAHA.

I run a 46kg on both my Arrma big 6s rigs. Both also have Max6 1650kv.
On my TLR I run 35kg.

 

[KnowAir]

HAHA.

I run a 46kg on both my Arrma big 6s rigs. Both also have Max6 1650kv.
On my TLR I run 35kg.

That's what I should've done, 35kg at least. My issue is having too many rigs(if there's such), I simply don't have the resources to give them the parts they deserve. Had a 45kg to put in the k6, but gave it away to a member over at AF. One day I'll get my ducks in a row..

 

[morrjr71]

My issue is having too many rigs(if there's such), I simply don't have the resources to give them the parts they deserve.

Isn't that the truth: between my crawlers, road cars, and bashers I can't afford to mod all of them to the level I would like them to be. My Radix6 is really close to where I want it to be: the stock aluminum parts have all been replaced with the Team Corally Tuning 7075 parts, with the exception of the upgraded 7075 chassis, which I might be ordering soon.