Shafts and outdrives problem - sketer

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Wow, I've lost count on my battery packs. Been running 15t to 17t pinions bashing real hard and I only had a single bent shaft but the cups and pins look pretty much like @HZRDOS 's as well.
 
JPWarrior_KRX said:
Wow, I've lost count on my battery packs. Been running 15t to 17t pinions bashing real hard and I only had a single bent shaft but the cups and pins look pretty much like @HZRDOS 's as well.
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Well, just to get their feedback I've sent these pics to corally... I'm curious if they can provide any input. Something can't be right. My stock in corally is pretty low right about now...

Hopefully the new parts come in soon and I can fix it before next weekend!. I may start breaking it down before I get the parts to start investigating. In the meantime I'm playing with my arrma talion and loving it.

I want my sketer back! :(
 
Mr. Fring said:
Well, just to get their feedback I've sent these pics to corally... I'm curious if they can provide any input. Something can't be right. My stock in corally is pretty low right about now...

Hopefully the new parts come in soon and I can fix it before next weekend!. I may start breaking it down before I get the parts to start investigating. In the meantime I'm playing with my arrma talion and loving it.

I want my sketer back! :(
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Sorry to hear you're having issues. There must be something amiss here,that is a crazy amount of wear for such little run time. I have seen drive shaft and cup wear like that on Redcat rc's from a while back but dang!
I suggest you either pull the pinion or just slide the motor back so the pinion is clear from the spur and see how much resistance there is when rolling the truck back and forth. It should roll easily without the resistance from the motor. Maybe you did indeed get some dry bearings from the factory.
I can't imagine shims are going to have that type of effect on the dog bones or drive cups.
You don't by chance hold the throttle on when jumping? That would be more likely to snap parts than wear though.
 
KnowAir said:
Sorry to hear you're having issues. There must be something amiss here,that is a crazy amount of wear for such little run time. I have seen drive shaft and cup wear like that on Redcat rc's from a while back but dang!
I suggest you either pull the pinion or just slide the motor back so the pinion is clear from the spur and see how much resistance there is when rolling the truck back and forth. It should roll easily without the resistance from the motor. Maybe you did indeed get some dry bearings from the factory.
I can't imagine shims are going to have that type of effect on the dog bones or drive cups.
You don't by chance hold the throttle on when jumping? That would be more likely to snap parts than wear though.
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I will move the motor back and check that out today. I'll do that first. Thank you for the tip.

As to holding throttle while jumping... I really don't do huge jumps. I drive it around pretty "regularly" with the occasional small jump off a gutter, e.t.c. I don't "full send" my rcs like I see all the time on YouTube lol. But when I go over some terrain that might give me air in usually let off the throttle.

The thing with the bearings is... in the past with other trucks I've driven if there was a bad bearing you'd know immediately because the truck wouldn't drive straight. It'd want to veer off one way or another unusually. My sketer has always tracked pretty straight which is why I wasn't ever too sure the bearings were bad.

I'm definitely going to move the motor and check the resistance. I'll do it later today and report back
 
Mr. Fring said:
I will move the motor back and check that out today. I'll do that first. Thank you for the tip.

As to holding throttle while jumping... I really don't do huge jumps. I drive it around pretty "regularly" with the occasional small jump off a gutter, e.t.c. I don't "full send" my rcs like I see all the time on YouTube lol. But when I go over some terrain that might give me air in usually let off the throttle.

The thing with the bearings is... in the past with other trucks I've driven if there was a bad bearing you'd know immediately because the truck wouldn't drive straight. It'd want to veer off one way or another unusually. My sketer has always tracked pretty straight which is why I wasn't ever too sure the bearings were bad.

I'm definitely going to move the motor and check the resistance. I'll do it later today and report back
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I agree, bearings usually do cause the rig to pull to one side, or feel like the brakes are on as soon as you let off the throttle.
To have shaft and cup wear like that so quickly is puzzling. After a couple years,sure, but not a couple weeks. I would have to think if parts were defective we'd be seeing this with other users as well.
Start with the easy/basics first I guess.

Stock Sketer tires/wheels?
 
KnowAir said:
I agree, bearings usually do cause the rig to pull to one side, or feel like the brakes are on as soon as you let off the throttle.
To have shaft and cup wear like that so quickly is puzzling. After a couple years,sure, but not a couple weeks. I would have to think if parts were defective we'd be seeing this with other users as well.
Start with the easy/basics first I guess.

Stock Sketer tires/wheels?
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Yep, the whole rig is stock. Stock pinion, wheels, e.t.c
 
Just an update: corally has opened a ticket on this... I'll see what they say.

I already ordered new driveshafts, drive cups, and various diff components if needed. Also I have shims for the wheels and new bearings coming too.

At this point I could have bought a fifth scale LOL
 
Mr. Fring said:
Just an update: corally has opened a ticket on this... I'll see what they say.

I already ordered new driveshafts, drive cups, and various diff components if needed. Also I have shims for the wheels and new bearings coming too.

At this point I could have bought a fifth scale LOL
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This seems to an atypical example of the Team Corally products. I feel for you, hopefully TC will take care of it for you. I'm guessing you paid for the parts so you wouldn't have to wait for them to warranty the parts? I don't blame you there.
The sketer is a bit pricey for 4s,but it is built like a tank and should last for years. Keep us posted 👍
 
KnowAir said:
This seems to an atypical example of the Team Corally products. I feel for you, hopefully TC will take care of it for you. I'm guessing you paid for the parts so you wouldn't have to wait for them to warranty the parts? I don't blame you there.
The sketer is a bit pricey for 4s,but it is built like a tank and should last for years. Keep us posted 👍
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Yea I paid for the parts already because i just want to fix it and don't want to wait. I still haven't received feedback from TC but will update once they do. I'm very curious to see what they say, what solutions they may offer and what guidance they may have.
 
UPDATE: corally responded and said that the cups may not have been hardened properly and are sending replacements. I believe they are sending driveshafts too. They said the pins on the shafts are designed to be softer than the cups because they are quicker and easier to replace but agree this shouldn't have happened so quickly. So they asked for my address to mail me new parts.

I'll update again once I have parts and complete the repairs. Hopefully the new cups solve the problem!!
 
guess what?
Same issue after about 20 runs:
AF821DF1-00D6-4F0B-87DF-629942407C24.jpeg

this is the rear outdrive, the front doesn't look better :-(
 
ol1ver said:
guess what?
Same issue after about 20 runs:
View attachment 2121
this is the rear outdrive, the front doesn't look better :-(
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Wow!.. yea they must have had a bad batch or something. Definitely reach out to them since I'd guess it's becoming a common issue. I don't think these cups should wear like that so soon especially being spring steel so I'm guessing there was a manufacturer defect. It's definitely a detailed repair job since it requires basically rebuilding each diff.

Your driveshaft looks better than mine.... but those cups gotta be really soft for some reason. Stinks!

[email protected]. << email
 
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ol1ver said:
guess what?
Same issue after about 20 runs:
View attachment 2121
this is the rear outdrive, the front doesn't look better :-(
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It can be an issue of the camera not showing the correct colours, but your outdrive does not have the typical "brownish"colour of the spring steel outdrives.

For comparison, I tried to make a picture from the same position as you ... mine looks like that:

Outdrive.jpg


BTW, this is also after about 20 runs - and some of those were really hard bashes on grass to maximise stress on the motor (and on the drivetrain) for temperature testing ...
 
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@FunnyCar : the colors are quite correct, and your outdrive cups look indeed different :unsure:

anyway "swiss-spring-steel-replacement-parts" are odered.

BTW: I had the same issue with the outdrive on my LOSI Tenacity, maybe the dust in southern Germany is more abrasive o_O
 
Sucks to see these issues. I know TC will do their best to mitigate, they're eager to get a piece of the basher market it seems.
I have a '21 xtr so it does not have the spring steel outdrives, but they're showing minimal wear so far although most of the 15 or so packs through it have been 4s. I did run it on 6s for a few packs which proved to be just too much for my bash area. Experimenting with 5s currently, I like it on 5s,just hoping I don't ruin my batteries 🤔
@ol1ver ,did you file a claim with TC?
 
@KnowAir : Not yet, not sure if it's worth the hassle.
And -yes- I ran a few 6s battery packs with it! Mostly :rolleyes:

FunnyCar said:
It shouldn’t be so different than the dust over here in northern Austria 😉
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well, who knows... at least there's Bavaria in between :LOL:
 
Yeah,depends whether they cover shipping or not I guess? They should, IMO. I got the free hub upgrade parts for the xtr..cost me $25 to ship to us tho🤣🤣 wasn't worth it,but no one had them for sale here yet,so?🤣🤣
6s shouldn't be a problem,TC is using same diffs and outdrives as '22 xtr I think? Hmm,wonder if we'll see those have same issues?
 
KnowAir said:
Yeah,depends whether they cover shipping or not I guess? They should, IMO. I got the free hub upgrade parts for the xtr..cost me $25 to ship to us tho🤣🤣 wasn't worth it,but no one had them for sale here yet,so?🤣🤣
6s shouldn't be a problem,TC is using same diffs and outdrives as '22 xtr I think? Hmm,wonder if we'll see those have same issues?
Click to expand...

Corally just shipped my replacement parts at no charge. Shipping DHL Express so hopefully I'll get them soon!
 
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