Kronos XTR First 6s run... Complete failer

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Caleb90 said:
The max 8 and the ezrun 150 i have now are pretty much the same. Would it even make a difference?
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Been a long time since I've owned an ezrun so I cant say for sure, not much difference on paper spec wise. Spend $30 and put a big cap pack on what ya got and call it a day.
 
AngrySection8 said:
Been a long time since I've owned an ezrun so I cant say for sure, not much difference on paper spec wise. Spend $30 and put a big cap pack on what ya got and call it a day.
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My Corally electronics came with a big cap pack already installed when a I bought it towards the end of 21.

Do they not always have this?

I thought it just helps with surges and the 'Crack!' when you plug in.

The temps I had in the summer were much too high, but with the fans I use now I get upto around 160.

I'm guessing that throttle management is important too on these rigs. If you have too much fun, stuff will just give up.

The 825 is still a >4hp motor on 6S and with so much torque. 2050KV likely draws more current at 6S than is ideal.

My understanding was that the Corally Electronics were based on the Max 8 stuff anyway.
 
Soni just found that the switch on my esc broke. the piece that holds the slide switch broke off. Can i solder the two wires together, so it turns on when i plug batteries in? Id like to leave the program button servicable as i don't have a card
 
Caleb90 said:
Soni just found that the switch on my esc broke. the piece that holds the slide switch broke off. Can i solder the two wires together, so it turns on when i plug batteries in? Id like to leave the program button servicable as i don't have a card
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It wouldn't be ideal doing that, but I suppose you could. I don't have a slide switch on mine though. It's a push button. Can you take a picture and post it?
 
Here ya go

IMG_20221231_095753313.webp


IMG_20221231_095800100.webp


IMG_20221231_095812016.webp
 
Horatio said:
My Corally electronics came with a big cap pack already installed when a I bought it towards the end of 21.

Do they not always have this?

I thought it just helps with surges and the 'Crack!' when you plug in.

The temps I had in the summer were much too high, but with the fans I use now I get upto around 160.

I'm guessing that throttle management is important too on these rigs. If you have too much fun, stuff will just give up.

The 825 is still a >4hp motor on 6S and with so much torque. 2050KV likely draws more current at 6S than is ideal.

My understanding was that the Corally Electronics were based on the Max 8 stuff anyway.
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Yeah they typically come with a small cap pack which is better than nothing but I run ones that capacity on my 2s/3s stuff. I'm running the stock corally stuff on my xtr, it lives on 6s, I'm running a 15t pinion and a big 63v 8800uf cap pack, I never have issues with heat that a lot complain about having here, everything else I own is castle equipped and definitely have no issues there.

Caleb90, are you here in the states? If so I've got a basically new switch here I'd be willing to send ya for shipping if interested, off a max6 that lasted 2 whole packs, esc is junk but the switch should be fine
 
AngrySection8 said:
Yeah they typically come with a small cap pack which is better than nothing but I run ones that capacity on my 2s/3s stuff. I'm running the stock corally stuff on my xtr, it lives on 6s, I'm running a 15t pinion and a big 63v 8800uf cap pack, I never have issues with heat that a lot complain about having here, everything else I own is castle equipped and definitely have no issues there.

Caleb90, are you here in the states? If so I've got a basically new switch here I'd be willing to send ya for shipping if interested, off a max6 that lasted 2 whole packs, esc is junk but the switch should be fine
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Yes sir, located here in the states.. what would a comparable castle esc to the max8 or max6
 
Mamba monster X, they make a 6s version as well as an 8s, well worth the few extra bucks over hobbywing, tons of adjustability as well as data logging so you can see what's going on, plus they handle loads more amps. I'm not knocking hobbywing, I've owned a lot of them, but anymore if I need to buy an esc for something I'll only buy castle
 
Can you programe them with out a computer? I live in the stone age and don't have computer or internet. Just use my smart phone for every thing
 
Caleb90 said:
Can you programe them with out a computer? I live in the stone age and don't have computer or internet. Just use my smart phone for every thing
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They offer a Bluetooth device so you can use your phone, I've never used one so can't comment on how they work or if they offer the same things as the computer program, I'd assume they would. When you purchase an esc it comes with a card for a free castle link connector or you can choose a discount on the Bluetooth device instead
 
Caleb90 said:
The max 8 and the ezrun 150 i have now are pretty much the same. Would it even make a difference?
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Hey, Happy New year guys!!
I've been preoccupied with my new toys that Mrs. KnowAir got me for xmas. Gopro hero11 black and a Hota S6 charger!! Much to learn with the gopro, it's my first and waay advanced for this caveman to learn,LOL.
With regards to max8 vs quicrun 150, I think the most significant difference is adjustable bec voltage. Obviously thats not going to help with your overheating issues, so perhaps I was wrong, may not help your situation.

Horatio said:
Mine is the 21 XTR (no centre, end to end brace) and I'm keeping a close eye on the drive line input/output cups for wear. I'd like to upgrade these when they start developing slots or burrs.

I suppose there is a tendancy for a cascade effect on RC cars - once certain stuff starts to wear out, all the rest of it goes shortly thereafter.

So far, the only stuff I've broken has been the rear wing - it seems to crack right in the middle along the mould line. Ruins the decals as well. 🙄 Tatty looking decals trigger OCD. 😝

Corally plastic seems to have been formulated to preference rigidity over durability. For most bashers, this is viewed as a negative thing.

After market support is nothing like the Kraton's yet, but the XTR is well and truly out there now. Support will be sure to follow. And let's not overlook the fact it drives nice (when it's intact! 🤣)

Have a happy new year everyone! 🎉👍
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No broken arms here either, I agree, the TC rigs are more racers than hardcore bashers. Used within their limits, I think they're great. Hopefully TC keeps improving on them and the aftermarket gets onboard with more offerings.

AngrySection8 said:
Been a long time since I've owned an ezrun so I cant say for sure, not much difference on paper spec wise. Spend $30 and put a big cap pack on what ya got and call it a day.
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Max series esc's are the EZ run models. The 8BL150 is a Quicrun, which is the bottom level esc from HW.
It goes Xerun, EZrun, Quicrun top to bottom of the model scale.
I run generic unbranded (Redcat, Hobao)8BL150's in several rigs without issue, including mojo exb and kraton exb. No cap packs or upgraded fans either. Gearing has to be realistic or things overheat.
IDK what else to say.
 
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Well i am running corallys stock gearing, and running tires a half inch shorter than stock. So either corallys gearing is impractical or the esc just cant handle it
 
Caleb90 said:
Well i am running corallys stock gearing, and running tires a half inch shorter than stock. So either corallys gearing is impractical or the esc just cant handle it
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I understand your frustration, shouldn't be an issue, I agree. Have you rolled the truck without the motor attached to be certain there is no added resistance? I mean just loosen the motor mount screws and slide the motor back so the pinion is not meshing with the spur gear.. if there is no notable resistance than we have to assume that the 8BL150 (or batteries) just simply can't keep up with the demand from the Kuron 825 motor.
A cap pack can help but that is just a momentary boost to the power supply, I'm doubtful that it will prevent the issues your having.
With regards to the Castle esc's I have never owned any. Honestly I've always been content with the Hobbywing and never felt a need to spend more for the Castle stuff. But that's just my perspective. I have read many comments from folks all over the net that once they tried the Castle, they'd never go back to HW.
Are your batteries still getting hot? They will always get warm but hot meaning 120f or more?
Another thing I just thought of is the motor bearings, doubtful that's your issue but depending on how much use and debris it may have been subjected to, they can go bad relatively quickly in some cases.
My brother recently gifted me a Traxxas 3s motor and esc combo, he upgraded to a HW setup when the TRX system "lost power"..turns out the motor bearings were bad. I have that system in a bandit buggy now and I can assure that there is no power loss. It's crazy fast IMO.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, eliminate all other possibilities before dropping money on anesc that may not be your problem.
Also, I have soldered on different switches to esc's successfully before. You should be able to source one pretty cheaply. I'd suggest getting a EZ run push button type over the slide switch.
 
Currently more agrivated about the 2 gears i ordered. Usps some one stole them, bought them through ebay. Ebay is terrible for customer service, and seller wont get back to me. Pisses me off
 
@KnowAir - glad you got an action camera! I've not long had a DJI Action 2 for use with my drones.

I think the Hero 11 is pretty much the gold standard. 👍
 
Horatio said:
@KnowAir - glad you got an action camera! I've not long had a DJI Action 2 for use with my drones.

I think the Hero 11 is pretty much the gold standard. 👍
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Thanks and yes, this thing has more definition than my old eyes can perceive for sure.
The camera itself is easy enough to operate, the problem I have is no device to view such HD vids on!! LOL. Had to download gopros handbrake app to lower the codecs so my PC can play the videos..An hour and a half to convert a 15 minute video into something I can actually watch!!🤔🙄🤣🤣
 
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