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morrjr71 said:
I replaced the stock 13T pinion that came with my new Asuga roller with a Tekno 16T pinion with M5 grub screw. According to the Asuga manual, the 16T should give me 47 MPH on 4s and 70 MPH on 6s. The motor mount is at near capacity with the 16T pinion and 52T spur, and that's why Corally doesn't recommend that combination in the manual.
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The other reason why Corally don't recommend higher than 13t/52t on the Kuron 825 is that it gets very hot. It's a beast on 6S, no doubt about it. Just make sure you keep it cool to avoid cooking your motor/ESC. Fans really help! 👍
 
Horatio said:
The other reason why Corally don't recommend higher than 13t/52t on the Kuron 825 is that it gets very hot. It's a beast on 6S, no doubt about it. Just make sure you keep it cool to avoid cooking your motor/ESC. Fans really help! 👍
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I'm running a Kuron 825 in my Mojave 6s, Backflip LP's, 16/50 gearing, powered by a VXL8s ESC. I was hoping to get decent speed on 4s, but IDK if I'll be able to. The Mojave has Kraton arms and my own custom made aluminum front and rear skid plates.. a bit heavy for 4s. Does okay, but would like just a pinch more speed.. maybe a 17t pinion, IDK. Problem I have is the tires, aside from the Fortress 6s, which are tough as nails, but look ridiculous on the wide chassis..then, they don't have the grip I'm after either. Backflip LP's can't hold up to the weight of the Mojave, especially with 6s power. The search is ongoing for a tougher tire that will grip on hard clay..6" or under..
 
Horatio said:
The other reason why Corally don't recommend higher than 13t/52t on the Kuron 825 is that it gets very hot. It's a beast on 6S, no doubt about it. Just make sure you keep it cool to avoid cooking your motor/ESC. Fans really help! 👍
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I forgot to mention I don't have the Torox/Kuron system in my Asuga: I'm running a Hobbywing Max8 G2 ESC with a Hobbywing 2250kv motor. I have a 16,000 RPM 40mm fan on the Hobbywing motor, which should keep it cool. The G2 motor is supposed to be 20% cooler than the older Hobbywing motors of the same kv, so that should help with the heat. I won't know for sure until we get warmer weather here in Maryland.
 
I decided the 16T pinion was a bit too much for my Asuga: it was very near the end of the motor mount adjustment, and Corally doesn't recommend it. I replaced it with a 15T pinion: I know it's not a big difference, but a 15T pinion with stock 52T spur still allows me some motor adjustment and is within the gear combinations that Corally recommends. And I really don't need 70 MPH on 6s for an offroad vehicle.
 
morrjr71 said:
I decided the 16T pinion was a bit too much for my Asuga: it was very near the end of the motor mount adjustment, and Corally doesn't recommend it. I replaced it with a 15T pinion: I know it's not a big difference, but a 15T pinion with stock 52T spur still allows me some motor adjustment and is within the gear combinations that Corally recommends. And I really don't need 70 MPH on 6s for an offroad vehicle.
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Good call. Just because we can doesn't mean we should. LOL.
 
CCB-MN said:
Agreed.

Although I do seem to have this guy 😈, sitting on my shoulders a lot more than this guy 😇, so this a bit of a existential and moral delima for me.
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I get it! If I had space for a speed basher, the Asuga makes a fine example I imagine.😎👍
 
The Kagama had a hard day! 3 packs then she broke. Not the cars fault, I didn’t see a 1/2 buried construction stake in the weeds. Broken shock screw and wing mount. lol, becoming a pretty standard fix.

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Shock screw sheared.

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Wing mount, 1 screw held! 👍

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lol, sitting a little low.

Aside from that, knock the dirt off, clean it up a bit, she will be good to go!
 
Unfortunately it’s a fairly common occurrence. It’s a fairly easy and mostly inexpensive fix so it’s not a big deal imo. I seem to rip the wing free about every 4th or 5th run but considering the rest of the truck has held up this well I’m not complaining! 💪💪

It’s a beast!
 
I'm doing some rehab on my Arrma's of sorts..
I have a K6 with Mojo arms/driveshafts, and a Mojo 6s with Kraton arms/driveshafts..
The K6 with Mojo bits is essentially the same dimensions as an Asuga. Love it, but is a tad "tippy".. both trucks have about a "million" miles on them, as such, quite sloppy.
So, the Mojo parts, arms/hubs don't wear nearly as fast it seems as the Kraton parts. Makes sense I think since the Kraton is alot wider, more leverage against the parts?
Anywho, I ordered up some Big Rock 6s arms and hubs from Jenny's rc. I put BR (truck) hubs and stubs (axles) onto the Mojo armed K6 to gain a bit of width. Should help with cornering rollovers I think. The Arrma truck hubs add about 8mm each side over the Mojo/Typhon buggy hubs.
The Mojo hubs are going back onto the Mojo chassis with new BR arms.. should get rid of the slop, which was VERY excessive on the Kraton arms/hubs..
I also found that the Kraton suspension pin plates were quite walloped.. I don't care for Arrma's setup there. 2mm stainless steel plates. Arrma doesn't advertise they're stainless, just "steel". I know they're stainless cuz a magnet doesn't grab them. Why stainless, and why soo thin? Cheesy..
So I'm "on hold" awaiting some suspension plates from amazon, that were due two days ago..
When I built the Kraton "XL", I decided to use a Redcat Shredder body on it. Looked "okay", but didn't last long, cheap biodegradable plastic or something, not sure but, it's trashed.
So, back to the Mojo EXB body, which needed much "clearancing" to fit over the Kraton suspension and BF LP tires/wheels..
I haven't taken any pics yet, but I think it looks decent. Drives, eh.. okay. Pushes a bit in turns, as any wide body rc tends to. I am putting the buggy hubs on, so it'll be around 16mm narrower.. see how goes.🤷‍♂️
 
I'm working on rebinding the receivers from my Radiolink RC6GS V2 transmitter to my newer Radiolink RC6GS V3 transmitter. I ran out of room for vehicles on the V2, which is limited to 10 models, but the V3 is capable of 30 models. I started with moving my four 6s vehicles and I'm now moving on to rebinding my two 4s vehicles. Radiolink should put the bind button in a more convenient place: I have to open each receiver box and remove the receiver to get to the bind button, so I takes a bit of effort for each one.
 
Put the wider asuga/kagama style hinge pin blocks on my jambo, I was able to drill the chassis for the inner most front/rear and bolt down to chassis however the outer most front/rear you can't, chassis isn't quite long enough to make drilling them in practical so they're simply bolted to the diffs like the stock blocks

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One day - I'm going to buy the CF inserts for my Kronos XTR. Once I can find a full set! At the moment - it's like trying to find unicorn tears.

On the weekend, I noticed my trusty general charger had a nasty clonking sound inside of it.

Thought I'd fix it - one of circuit boards had lost it's screws due to vibration during my recent house move.

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During the repair, I noticed the proper old-school solid state nature of the circuit board! If you look carefully - it's made by TDK! 😅

Still Works like a champ after 25+ years of daily use.
 
Jenny's finally had a set of kagama arms in stock so snagged them up, got them installed on my jambo today so I believe this rig is finally done

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I installed ADU Racing 7075 center diff support, diff cover, and TC 7075 top center brace into my Asuga. It also came with a 7075 motor mount insert for the center diff. While I had the Asuga apart I found the center diff was only about half full, so I filled it correctly. The ADU parts are machined beautifully and fit like a glove. I know I don’t want to do anything with the center diff for a long time!

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Worked on the Python couple nights ago. Couple months back I robbed the center diff and installed it in the Shogun. Was supposed to order another 46T spur, but since the cash flow is pretty tight, I decided to install the center diff from the Shogun.

Turns out for the bigger spur, you also need to install the truggy center diff mounts. The Python mounts are too low; it'll cause your spur gear to rub the chassis. You can also dremel out a slot for the spur to clear, but it's easier for me to just replace the mounts. You also need the truggy spur protector; the Python protector is a little low.

I also redid the rear shocks because I was getting different rebound rates. I noticed the Python would tilt towards the passenger side on jumps, causing it to land on it's side and very often pop out the pillow ball. I wondered why and that was the cause. Front shocks are next. Previous shock oil was 50F and 40R, but I'm going to change that out to 60F 50R just like the Shogun. The Shogun had a noticeable handling change when I swapped out for heavier fluid, so I figure the Python should benefit quite nicely from the same change. Also going to change out the diff fluids. Shogun is 20-20-10, so I'm going with the same setup on the Python.

My goal is to make her at least a little competitive and the practice horse for my son. Once he gets the hang of driving a buggy via the Python, he'll graduate to piloting the Eb48. Don't get me wrong, I love my Tekno; but there's something about taking a platform that is branded as a "basher" and making it race-worthy (at least at the club level). If I do my part, the Shogun has a very good possibility of winning the first race that we set up. It'd be pretty sweet to have the Python join her on the podium too.

I'd say about 85% of that is going to be dependent on me to put in the work. 🤞
 
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