New high torque servo - CS-5245

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
rdevalk said:
I already put my output to 7.4v because the steering seemed weak with the stock servo. it appeared to be the servo saver who was not tightened at all from factory :D
Click to expand...
Yeah mine also on 7.4v but i mean, should i put it on 8.4v 💪
 
Finally installed it, and I like it a lot :D
Too bad that the esc can only get up to 7,4V

IMG_9380.JPG
 
I'm a firm believer that good servos make for a great car. Centering performance is essential and often overlooked.

These AGF A81BHMW servos are high performance, brushless, waterproof (IP67) and machined from alloy cases. Fast, high voltage, high torque.

IMG_20211216_142838.jpg


Specs:

Stall Torque
  • 28kg-cm (375oz-in) @ 4.8V
  • 34kg-cm (458oz-in) @ 6.0V
  • 39kg-cm (528oz-in) @ 7.4V
  • 45kg-cm (597oz-in) @ 8.4V
Operating Speed
  • 0.140sec/60° @ 4.8V
  • 0.115sec/60° @ 6.0V
  • 0.100sec/60° @ 7.4V
  • 0.085sec/60° @ 8.4V
I compare these up against my Protek 170 SBL and TBL favourably - but half the price. 👍
 
I know this tread is old. But I have the new CR high torque servo for my Kronos XTR that I just bought. I have been running a few pck through it and I don’t know if it is just me but the steering on my XTR is pretty poor. Huge turning radius, and the servo can’t quite hit the end points when it is on the ground.
I set the end points when it had no pressure on the wheels (had it just steer to the end right to when the servo was pushing but no more steering on the wheels, and then backed it off a little so that the servo wouldn’t break). I saw another thread about the servo saver being very loose, so I have cranked it down big time. Yet still, it had massive turning radius.
When I watch videos of other online, it just seems like I am missing something because they all turn sharper. Do I need extended hubs or something? What are you guys doing? Or any suggestions?
 
Did you turn the Steering D/R all the way clockwise on the Varioprop Remote?

samo975 said:
I know this tread is old. But I have the new CR high torque servo for my Kronos XTR that I just bought. I have been running a few pck through it and I don’t know if it is just me but the steering on my XTR is pretty poor. Huge turning radius, and the servo can’t quite hit the end points when it is on the ground.
I set the end points when it had no pressure on the wheels (had it just steer to the end right to when the servo was pushing but no more steering on the wheels, and then backed it off a little so that the servo wouldn’t break). I saw another thread about the servo saver being very loose, so I have cranked it down big time. Yet still, it had massive turning radius.
When I watch videos of other online, it just seems like I am missing something because they all turn sharper. Do I need extended hubs or something? What are you guys doing? Or any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Did you turn the Steering D/R all the way clockwise on the Varioprop Remote?
 
Sounds to me like you have slop/play in your steering. If you've cranked down your stock servo saver spring nearly all the way down, we'll ignore this for a moment.

Now forget where your steering gets to when it's off the ground at full droop. Get the truck back on the ground, with the suspension arms where they would normally be.

Take the body off the truck.

Hook up your battery (disconnect the motor if you feel it's safer) and watch the steering as you turn from full right, centre, full left. Watch what moves and what doesn't.

It could be:

●something bent
●something worn
●something broken

If your truck fails to reach full lock or centre properly, you have a mechanical problem with your steering assembly, assuming you haven't limited something with your radio by mistake.
 
rdevalk said:
Did you turn the Steering D/R all the way clockwise on the Varioprop Remote?


Did you turn the Steering D/R all the way clockwise on the Varioprop Remote?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advise. I bought the XTR model. I actually wanted the Corally remote. But I couldn't figure out how to buy it with the roller chassis (I am currently living in France for work). Anyway, I have a DumboRC remote control. So, when you say D/R do you mean like the Trim settings?

Horatio said:
Sounds to me like you have slop/play in your steering. If you've cranked down your stock servo saver spring nearly all the way down, we'll ignore this for a moment.

Now forget where your steering gets to when it's off the ground at full droop. Get the truck back on the ground, with the suspension arms where they would normally be.

Take the body off the truck.

Hook up your battery (disconnect the motor if you feel it's safer) and watch the steering as you turn from full right, centre, full left. Watch what moves and what doesn't.

It could be:

●something bent
●something worn
●something broken

If your truck fails to reach full lock or centre properly, you have a mechanical problem with your steering assembly, assuming you haven't limited something with your radio by mistake.
Click to expand...
Thanks Horatio, I have cranked it to the point I can't see any visible gaps in the spring (is that bad? or did i tighten it too much?).
Ok, I will try putting the car on pavement and then adjusting the endpoints to make it work. I followed a sort of tutorial on RazorRC's channel (I think...it has been a while and I watched a bunch of how to videos. First RC in about 20 years, so I am relearning) where he said first get your servo centered and then turn to your end points. In other words turn to the end on your controller and the servo shouldn't be making a straining noise like it is going to break the steering components.
I am probably describing it wrong, or have the wrong video in mind. But that was my theory, steer end to end without the servo making "bad" noises.
But this is where the forum shines. thank you for the advice. it seems like maybe I need to let the servo travel a little further.
 
Last edited:
samo975 said:
Thanks for the advise. I bought the XTR model. I actually wanted the Corally remote. But I couldn't figure out how to buy it with the roller chassis (I am currently living in France for work). Anyway, I have a DumboRC remote control. So, when you say D/R do you mean like the Trim settings?


Thanks Horatio, I have cranked it to the point I can't see any visible gaps in the spring (is that bad? or did i tighten it too much?).
Ok, I will try putting the car on pavement and then adjusting the endpoints to make it work. I followed a sort of tutorial on RazorRC's channel (I think...it has been a while and I watched a bunch of how to videos. First RC in about 20 years, so I am relearning) where he said first get your servo centered and then turn to your end points. In other words turn to the end on your controller and the servo shouldn't be making a straining noise like it is going to break the steering components.
I am probably describing it wrong, or have the wrong video in mind. But that was my theory, steer end to end without the servo making "bad" noises.
But this is where the forum shines. thank you for the advice. it seems like maybe I need to let the servo travel a little further.
Click to expand...
Let the servo push the hubs until they reach a point where they can't move any more. Take the EPA adjustment to this point, with the suspension arms loaded - not off the ground.

With no gaps between the springs, you run the risk of cooking your servo if your rig tumbles or bumps something. Your servo saver no longer functions as a servo saver. This is bad IMO, although some people claim that servo savers aren't necessary with modern servos - I reserve the right to politely disagree! 🤣 Unless of course one has a sponsor that provides you with replacement servos each time they go up in magic smoke!

So, you should get the Leespring spring upgrade. You won't need to Crank it down then, I can assure you. 😁

IMG_20220629_183525.jpg


Note in this image, there are big gaps between the coils, but the cam only operates if there's an impact of some kind. It's rock solid during normal use, which is essential if you use heavy or belted tyres (like road tyres).

IMG_20220512_201556.jpg


It's very nice to have responsive steering on a 6S Rig. I highly recommend it.

IMG_20220630_114757.jpg


Who'd have thunk a humble spring could make such a difference!

IMG_20211216_142838.jpg


Combined with a tidy servo - this rig is very responsive, in spite of it's heft. 😎
 
wow nice rig! what are those wheels? while I enjoy a good grass run, I mostly run on pavement around here. I was trying to find belted 1/8 truggy tires. those look good.
Thanks for the advice on the servo saver. I figured it was there for a reason :LOL:. But, the steering was so bad I had to do something, and that is what I was reading in the forums. I loosened up my servo saver, next time I am out I will play with the endpoints. Just now I pushed the steering trim to 100% and checked it on the ground. It still doesn't make a full turn, but I am going to reserve judgement until I get out and drive it again.
do you have a GPS for your Kronos? how fast have you gone? I have only driven on 4S and it is scary fast for me...yet still I want to try 6S :oops:. It seems like it is going to be bonkers fast!
 
samo975 said:
wow nice rig! what are those wheels? while I enjoy a good grass run, I mostly run on pavement around here. I was trying to find belted 1/8 truggy tires. those look good.
Thanks for the advice on the servo saver. I figured it was there for a reason :LOL:. But, the steering was so bad I had to do something, and that is what I was reading in the forums. I loosened up my servo saver, next time I am out I will play with the endpoints. Just now I pushed the steering trim to 100% and checked it on the ground. It still doesn't make a full turn, but I am going to reserve judgement until I get out and drive it again.
do you have a GPS for your Kronos? how fast have you gone? I have only driven on 4S and it is scary fast for me...yet still I want to try 6S :oops:. It seems like it is going to be bonkers fast!
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20220707_204630_com.gps.revogi.jpg

Screenshot_20220707_204044_com.gps.revogi.jpg

It's rapid! 😁

The tyres are JetKo belted tyres - they're very good. But heavy and like most wheels, they require balancing.

JetKo Tyres are looking rather nice.
 
Awesome thanks! and thanks for the info.
Balancing o_O yet something else I have no idea how to do it. I have noticed that the tires (or tyres, I see you are from the UK ;)) it came with are horribly balanced, but I didn't think there was anything you could do about it. Well...now I have more Youtube videos to watch and research.
 
I use a 1/8th wheel balancer to find the heavy part of the wheel, then use blutac to establish how much weight I need and weigh it on a digital scale.

For weights, I use 'golf tape' - basically self adhesive lead.

Recently, I've found these:

Screenshot_20230604_213435_com.ebay.mobile_edit_242944522077511.jpg


Designed for bikes, 2.5g weights lend themselves well for 1/8th and 1/5th scale use. The saint-gobain VHB adhesive should prevent weights from falling off (which can happen with golf tape very occasionally during off road use).

Note also the XTR on the reverse side..... it was obviously meant to be! 😝

Screenshot_20230604_215413_com.ebay.mobile_edit_243503313458676.jpg
 
Back
Top