Yeah, unfortunately you've started something, after doing those yesterday I'm on a quest to hit sub 2 seconds, not with those cars but currently setting up another just for this, probably won't happen but something to shoot forLoving the 1.24g
Yeah, it would be scooting, it's achievable just whether I can pull it off with the handful of digitals and gears I have on hand is what's in question
Well you're already pretty darned close from the numbers you've shown.
The thought of digging a bigger hole did cross my mind...
Sending prayers, healing vibes, good thoughts, burnt chickens, whatever it takes to help you through my brother. 
driver stupendously erroneous directions as a thanks. Quite possibly to the next highway where the next exit is at least 50 miles away.
I’ve looked at changing the layout myself, maybe going 8s with dual battery pack layout, similar to rc8te. I didn’t consider moving diff rear wards as would rule out dual battery pack layout, but could maybe use driveshafts from kagama as its diff more centrally located. The Kronos & kagama have same wheelbase but kagama chassis a few mm longer (this accommodates additional bolt holes on abcd blocks) I have looked at scorched rc titanium driveshafts before not specifically for corally but if check measurements can find some to suit Kronos, tworks also do titanium driveshaft I’ve used in my buggy. I’ve layed it out on chassis before , be a tight fit, motor size would be restricted to stock can size. Look fwd to seeing what route you take with it. Seems I’ve deleted pics where I layed it out on chassis but I have already purchased the battery packs to do it, might be a project for over the winter. Adu released a chassis for Asuga where servo & esc been relocated might be worth a look.
The Kronos XTR 7075 chassis is 3mm thick, though I note at the rear of the Chassis, I was measuring 3.9mm.
When I looked at purchasing a rig I looked at Kronos kagama Asuga was able to find titanium driveshafts for Kronos Asuga but only front for kagama if I recall correctly. I think 85.5 & 110 length are same as the buggy, think you may have rear measurement wrong. I used tworks 84.5mm in front for sworkz, rear 112mm from mugen on my buggy. When looking for Kronos shafts Of top my head scorched do 85mm & 168mm rear, I believe Kronos 85.5 & 170mm.The Kronos XTR 7075 chassis is 3mm thick, though I note at the rear of the Chassis, I was measuring 3.9mm.
New chassis is being fabricated with 5mm Carbon Fibre 0-90-0-90-0 with glossy twill finish.
A key advantage with it being >25% thicker and WCF, is that it should be significantly stiffer. There should be less need for chassis bracing.
By moving the motor inwards, it opens up options. The plastic guards may still be used, or forfeited for nice, flat usable mounting space.
I note that there's about 10mm spare space between the plastic guards and the Kronos body, so, you know, the Carbon chassis can be made generously proportioned and still end up being no wider than the stock chassis with guards.
The Kagama centre driveshafts might be an option. Good idea!
The front centre is 85.5mm, the rear centre is 110mm.
I'll see what driveshaft options there are as well. Do you know how long the Scorched centre driveshafts are?
TP motors might be a nice option moving forward, with an upgraded ESC.
Yes, it's highly likely the driveshaft lengths I stated are wrong - I was lazy and took the measurements straight from the manual.
My bad. I know that Corally part description and labelling are.....a bit of a lottery. I'm going to measure them tomorrow. Measure twice. Buy once! 
Your creating alot of work for yourself, I get the idea but I’m not sure if moving driveline so it straight will gain alot, I know a lot of other rc have this layout but on actual cars the diff being offset to the side is quite common, I not sure to the pros & cons to it maybe worth doing a little homework on it first. But the layout I considered copying rc8te I found only loose front chassis brace, & depending what power system your going for , you don’t need to change orientation of servo if going max8, if cut out receiver box a max8 fits easily, if going max6 you may need to shave or remove on of the posts holds servo & maybe trim side guard, obviously relocate receiver but plenty small receiver boxes can easily located elsewhere, even a small receiver box on top centre diff if run out space on chassis I wish I hadn’t deleted those photos but I had made esc templates trying it outYes, it's highly likely the driveshaft lengths I stated are wrong - I was lazy and took the measurements straight from the manual.
View attachment 6861
I've already found my servo mount!
View attachment 6862
Cheers for the single Ti shaft link!
I think as the new chassis is effectively a blank canvas, I'll roll with a position of the centre differential such that I can use readily available Scorched parts. I want to keep the weight forward design of the XTR as much as I can - it's a great handling rig.
The hardened carbon cross pins will extend the usable life of the dogbones and the outputs.
The planned upgrades for my XTR should future proof it for a couple of years. Making it lighter, stiffer and faster.
I really appreciate the help guys - it's saving time, something I'm short on lately.
Photos to follow in due course.
. But happy help if any my waffle does. I remember looking before can’t remember length but they’re rear titanium dog bones for typhon will fit corally buggy too I think if anyone interested, not sure if anything else is compatible saw someone with kraton hubs & axles on shogun so maybe more scorched parts fit if know measurements
I'm taking a no compromise approach. I'm only making the Kronos XTR replacement chassis once. If it's no good, I'll put it back to standard.Your creating alot of work for yourself, I get the idea but I’m not sure if moving driveline so it straight will gain alot, I know a lot of other rc have this layout but on actual cars the diff being offset to the side is quite common, I not sure to the pros & cons to it maybe worth doing a little homework on it first. But the layout I considered copying rc8te I found only loose front chassis brace, & depending what power system your going for , you don’t need to change orientation of servo if going max8, if cut out receiver box a max8 fits easily, if going max6 you may need to shave or remove on of the posts holds servo & maybe trim side guard, obviously relocate receiver but plenty small receiver boxes can easily located elsewhere, even a small receiver box on top centre diff if run out space on chassis I wish I hadn’t deleted those photos but I had made esc templates trying it out
Yep. I calculated about 5mm, but noted that there's about that much slop in the centre drive shafts anyway. I may need to move the transmission cases further out, or amend the choice of drive shafts.
If your calculations are right loose 5mm scorched do 82mm front 168mm rear should be perfect for you. And if you want to shave more weight here’s some carbon shock towersI'm taking a no compromise approach. I'm only making the Kronos XTR replacement chassis once. If it's no good, I'll put it back to standard.
I noticed an obvious difference in my gearing and rollout speed calculator. On the Sworkz, my calculator was only 0.3mph away from real world results, but on the XTR, I was 3mph off. I want some of those lost MPH's back! Gimme!
The loss I believe is coming from sub optimal angles on the driveline. I note that all decent racing e truggies have perfect straight line drive trains. Adjustable diff heights etc - it makes a difference.
At this stage, I'm looking at improving speed run performance more than off road handling, but making a rig stronger, lighter, stiffer has got to make it better at most things.
If I was a Kraton owner right now, I'd be ordering this:
View attachment 6863
It resolves many issues. The slab of Carbon Fibre I just bought costs about the same.
Whilst I am a huge advocate of the Kronos, offerings like this are simply not available for the Corally rigs. It's a real shame, because they deserve the same level of aftermarket love.
Thus I'm making life difficult for myself. My fabricated chassis will not be as sexy as Scorched, but, I'll be attaching things to my hand fettled Chassis that are really nice.
Yep. I calculated about 5mm, but noted that there's about that much slop in the centre drive shafts anyway. I may need to move the transmission cases further out, or amend the choice of drive shafts.
I'd sooner not increase the wheelbase and keep it compatible with the stock bodies I have.
I'll know more over the weekend.
Register and gain access to Discussions, Reviews, Tech Tips, How to Articles, and much more - on the best Corally RC community for RC enthusiasts that covers all aspects of the Corally-RC brand!
Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!
