Kagama Team Corally ‘s new release 20 Sep is a 6s SCT

[Rotauq]

You can just use a body clip in lieu of the o ring. You can even use the body clip retainers so you don’t lose them.

The retainers ne sont pas a guarantee of not losing pins. Some rough thumble whumbles made me loose one at the body including retainer.

The Spark mudguards are a perfect fit and PETG survived some serious testing

 

[Atomic Skull]

Cheap aliexpress tire options, non glued so you can strap the insides with gorilla tape.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809752627703.html

I've seen these listed variously as, 124mm and 126mm, regardless they fit a Mojave 4S (see the picture in the customer reviews in this listing) so they should fit the Shiroi.

I also found these which claim to be 112mm, but it's the same tire design with a cloned UDR tread instead of a cloned Hyrax tread so I suspect it's closer to 120mm.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806770496833.html

Both these are basically slightly shrunk versions of the 135mm 1/7 SCT tires that have been on Aliexpress for a while now.

These should fit too:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809309242820.html

EDIT the last ones get good reviews on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F6291V68

Also found these:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809767845294.html

 

[Atomic Skull]

It's alive

I ran into a compatibility problem between the XC- ESC E6 and the Leopard 4274 1800kv in sensor mode the motor would pulse at high throttle so I swapped it with a Hobbywing 4279 2250kv I had in another vehicle and dropped to the 13t pinon. The ESC didn't like something about the hall sensor on the Leopard though it worked fine in sensorlees mode

 

[SirCrashALot]

It's alive

View attachment 10716

Nice!

 

[Atomic Skull]

Anyone know if the body mounts on the Kagama line up with the ones on the Shiroi?

 

[SirCrashALot]

On the Kagama, the body mounts are on top of the rear upright braces. On the Shiroi they are mounted on top of the tower. More to the rear and wider apart. On the front, the mounts are behind the tower on the Kagama. Again, on top of the tower on the Shiroi.
So, i am afraid not.

 

[Atomic Skull]

I decided to return the Hobbywing motor to it's original home in the Hobao and put a Taurus V2 1900kv with the 16T pinon in the Shiroi instead.

Crimped on bootlace ferrules make soldering much easier:

You can cover the entire solder terminal by cutting a slit in the shrink tube and feeding the wire through the slit, then pulling the front of the tube over the end of the solder terminal.

I also decided to seal up the gap between the solder terminals and the case as well as the unused motor screw holes (I could see the windings through them) and the open ends of the shrink tube on the motor wires with some electronics grade silicone (NEVER use common construction silicone on electronics it is acidic and will eat copper!). I made sure to set the motor shaft side down on a flat surface (the face of a bench vice) to ensure the flow direction was toward the front and not toward the windings. It probably would have stayed put but I figured it was best to make sure.

I also sealed the sensor connector and added a strain relief with electronics silicone. If I ever need to replace the wire I can just yank it out and remove any excess sticking to the motor housing and replace the connector then reapply the silicone.

I've also put a couple O-rings between the pinion and the exposed part of the motor bearing. With the pinion centered on the spur gear these o-rings are slightly compressed and should prevent dirt and moisture from working it's way into the rotor. In addition I put a thin layer of grease on the motor shaft to prevent threadlock from leaking out of the setscrew in between the shaft and the pinion and also to prevent possible corrosion from dissimilar steels in contact.

Installation in vehicle completed.

 

[Atomic Skull]

These tires just fit the hubs and steering blocks without rubbing but it is a very close fit:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809752627703.html

I raised the rear body posts by one hole, at full bottom out of the chassis they do not touch the body. They drift nice on asphalt but I wouldn't want to destroy them like that. The specifications on the listing say 123mm but the true OD is 125mm. Overall I think the slightly larger tires look more "in scale" with the body than the stock ones. EDIT no these tires are not glued you have to do that yourself.

Now the caveats, the screws that come with them for the removable hex are absolute bottom of the barrel garbage that will strip out even with a good driver. Weirdly they are M3 cap heads with a 2mm socket like an M2.5 screw. Cam the bit out once the screws are history, they may even strip out if you don't cam it out. DO NOT USE THESE SCREWS. Fortunately I have the tools to removed a stripped out screw. I would recommend some decent 10.8 or stainless steel M3x8mm button heads. 12.9 would be overkill imo but if you have them you can use them. I used some cap heads I had around which caused issues with engagement with the wheel nut due to the heads being too close to the 17mm hex, a button head will allow better engagement but getting it on with a cap head isn't impossible it will just have less engagement with the nut driver and higher risk of the driver slipping and scratching up the wheel nut. You could also put a 1.5mm thick nylon washer under the nut to elevate it (there is plenty of thread on the wheel adapter to allow this). What I did was use some extra wide wheel nuts I had laying around.

Also these balloon a lot without strapping them. I strapped them with Gorilla tape and they only expand a few mm at full RPM with a 1900kv motor and 16T pinion. I was also able to hit full throttle on asphalt without the truck becoming unstable with these tires (doubtful this would be the case without the strapping)

EDIT: I removed the white printing from them, it got damaged when I cleaned the glue up on one of the tires using a microfiber towel and acetone so I decided to just take it off all of them. It pretty much just wipes off with acetone. When gluing tires I'm very generous with the CA and just wipe off any excess seepage with acetone later.

 

[Rotauq]

3 Shiroi's in the mud this weekend.

Suspension and servo's really had a hard time as the mud made them basically double in weight.
@NBRC suggested afterwards to drill out the thread in C-00180-206 to give it more freedom. I was initially skeptical, but it might be the right thing to do for all TC cars using C-00180-831. (especially when using a RTR servo)

 

[NBRC]

everything is done, made a video about it and when it is edited i post it asap.
i think the steering is better and more fluent.

 

[razorrc]

I've also put a couple O-rings between the pinion and the exposed part of the motor bearing. With the pinion centered on the spur gear these o-rings are slightly compressed and should prevent dirt and moisture from working its way into the rotor.

View attachment 10786

That looks like it would drag on the outer race of the bearing. Anything on the shaft should only be able to touch the inner race, as the two spin separately.

 

[NBRC]

here is the vid (just for forum members for now)
Steering mod

 

[Atomic Skull]

3 Shiroi's in the mud this weekend.

Suspension and servo's really had a hard time as the mud made them basically double in weight.
@NBRC suggested afterwards to drill out the thread in C-00180-206 to give it more freedom. I was initially skeptical, but it might be the right thing to do for all TC cars using C-00180-831. (especially when using a RTR servo)

View attachment 10818

Adding even more slop to the steering is never the answer, if the servo is having problems then a stronger better servo is the proper solution.

 

[Atomic Skull]

That looks like it would drag on the outer race of the bearing. Anything on the shaft should only be able to touch the inner race, as the two spin separately.

The contact is light and doesn't cause problems. Full contact rubber shielded bearings also have the outer rubber shield in contact with the inner race of the bearing. Yes rubber shielded bearings have more drag but it is a drop in the overall bucket and imo more acceptable than letting dust and moisture inside the motor especially in a basher. It would have been better if they just used an RS bearing but for whatever reason car motors often use metal shielded bearings.

It might be different in a race car but the difference between a motor with RS bearings and ZZ bearings would likely be below the statistical noise floor.

 

[razorrc]

It’s because they’re spinning at like 40-50k RPM.

 

[BashingBrian]

here is the vid (just for forum members for now)
Steering mod

I've watched your vid, interesting find.
I must go and check mine and my other Corally's as I don't remember that part being threaded in the past..

 

[danl]

That looks like it would drag on the outer race of the bearing. Anything on the shaft should only be able to touch the inner race, as the two spin separately.

I agree that it does not need to touch. I killed three motor bearings in quick succession this summer when my bash spot got dry and dusty. I put a 5 mm O ring on the motor shaft without touching the bearing and the problem went away.

 

[danl]

3 Shiroi's in the mud this weekend.

Suspension and servo's really had a hard time as the mud made them basically double in weight.
@NBRC suggested afterwards to drill out the thread in C-00180-206 to give it more freedom. I was initially skeptical, but it might be the right thing to do for all TC cars using C-00180-831. (especially when using a RTR servo)

View attachment 10818

If you clearance anything it is the bellcrank arm that the bushing (part C-00180-206) rides in. By clearance, I mean lightly and uniform the inner diameter of the bell crank arm. This should only be necessary if there is a slight problem with the injection molded. That bushing (part C-00180-206) is meant to lock part C-00180-831 and the steering rack together into one solid piece and put it in double shear.

 

[Atomic Skull]

I agree that it does not need to touch. I killed three motor bearings in quick succession this summer when my bash spot got dry and dusty. I put a 5 mm O ring on the motor shaft without touching the bearing and the problem went away.

Been running motors like this for a while and it does not cause problems so long as the contact is only light. Dust and moisture can work it's way through a metal shield and into the ball bearings between the shield and the inner race in ZZ bearings which are close fitment but not actually in contact.

 

[Atomic Skull]

accidental double post