Kagama Team Corally ‘s new release 20 Sep is a 6s SCT

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BashingBrian said:
I found that 16T pinion or bigger and the motor mount hits the side guard.. :(
You can remove the top 3 bolts in the side guard and remove it to give you room to remove and refit the motor..!!

Didn't get out today with mine, so tried some pinion swaps, also made some dirt guards and carbon fiber center braces..

I decided to fit the 16T pinion for my next run, going 6s, so that'll be fun.. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I think to go any bigger, pinion wise your going to need to swap out to the 46T center diff spur..
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Can you post some pictures of those guards and braces?
 
BashingBrian said:
I sure can, gimme a minute just sorting pics for build thread, can't decide where to post, here, RCTalk or ArrmaForum..:ROFLMAO:
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I assume you mean that you’ve put a solid carbon fiber tube in the aluminium chassis braces? I’ve done that in the Kagama. I don’t think I’m going to backflip the Shiroi (in the Mojave it was quite expensive🙄, new body you know) so not required IMO. I’d might do it though😄
 
Rotauq said:
The MMX8S amps can push 6S power on 4S when geared accordingly. So i could even go up beyond 16T (If it fits)
The question is, at what power does the handling start to suffer? I am certain yipin servo + noble keep me in control (better than the RTR) to the point the suspension and top heavy body start work against the handling.
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Probably at the point ballooning starts to happen belted tires greatly improve handling on 6S.
 
Rotauq said:
5. Dried grass is annoying to clean off a car. But mostly i am very pleased the new cvd's being pre-installed. The asuga just has a upgrade bag included.
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What's worse is dried grass and caked mud *and* also a dog turd that somehow managed to find its way inside a wheel and then got flung all over the suspension. Which is what happened to my Asuga on Saturday.
 
Atomic Skull said:
What's worse is dried grass and caked mud *and* also a dog turd that somehow managed to find its way inside a wheel and then got flung all over the suspension. Which is what happened to my Asuga on Saturday.
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As a pet owner I hate other owners who can’t clean up after their dog. Its not the dogs fault, they are awesome. It’s just some owners are just horrible humans.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Ohhh I didn’t put the side guard back on yet when trying pinions…
Edit: with maximum motor mount position (so 18T pinion) the side guard does fit.
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I guess a Castle 1717 or 1720 motor is out of the question without dropping to a 46T spur gear then.
 
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I just got back from a bash on our Mountainbike track. They recently mowed the grass, so i was able to have a nice session and compare my Shiraco to the 6s Mojave.
The mountain bike track has artificial hills. They are approximately 5 to 10 meters high and have slopes of different steepness, that connect to eachother. That allows for nice long stretches with some long, high speed jumps, climbs and descends.
I had a blast. The Shiraco was doing nicely and it survived some nasty tumbles.
I took it home im one piece.
This morning i exchanged the front shocks, so it now has the same length on all corners. Like the Shiroi.
I also mounted softer springs. The car soaked up the terrain well. Right after the battery died, i switched to the Mojave.
You can tell it's bigger size and weight do even better on that track and its suspension allows higher speeds.
I had to end the session when the Mojave popped a pillow ball out of the hub.
Yesterday i ripped a pillow ball from the same arm on the other Mojave.
I have some work to do. 2 Mojaves and one Asuga with a center diff waiting to be serviced.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
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If those are the same Hyrax clones I'm running on my Asuga then the inside of the wheel rubs on the rear hubs. You need to add about 5mm of offset to prevent this. Adu racing used to make a +5mm spacer wheel hex for Corally vehicles but has since discontinued them, but you can still find them from some Ebay resellers. EDIT ok yours are the UDR clone version but they are both apparently from the same manufacturer and use the same wheel. The only difference is the tread.

EDIT: These are the same tires but with a new wheel design that has a removable adapter, it looks like the wheel hex on these aren't flush with the inside face of the wheel which is what caused the problem.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809154638502.html
 
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Question: did anyone get those new wheel hexes? I just noticed it’s on the box, but mine don’t have the white lettering on them.

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Installed the ESC reciever and servo. The white goop is electronics silicone when I had this ESC installed on my Asuga the center brace rubbed on the wires and scraped the PVC insulation on one on one side close to where they enter the case of the ESC, exposing the conductors. So I entombed the wire bundle in a blob of electronics silicone. This will also act as a strain relief/protection for the wires. While I was at it I also added a strain relief to the sensor wire with a blob of silicone as well. Also the single white wire is the voltage sense wire, I used some 22 AWG teflon insulated wire I had laying around for this. The receiver can send pack voltage telemetry back to the radio if you connect the voltage sense port up to the battery, 6S maximum but you can use a voltage divider and adjust the divider on the radio for 8S or 12S. I will need to find a new spot for the switch as I had to remove the switch holder to mount the ESC, and the switch is too small for it anyway.

EDIT: The orange wire on one lead with white shrink tubing over the terminal is an unused signal lead, it's for ESC telemetry that's not supported by my receiver. I wasn't sure what that would do if plugged into a servo port but I wanted to use the secondary BEC connection so I just removed that terminal from the servo connector housing and covered it in shrink tubing.

I'm going to have a second try at organizing the wiring inside the radio box I have some ideas on how it could be made cleaner.

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Shortened the ESC and servo leads, crimped new connectors onto the wires.

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Lengthened the shrink tubed section to make it a little longer where it comes off the battery tray in order to keep the wire bundle tighter under the front driveshaft.

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The wiring inside the radio box is now much cleaner than before

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I forgot that I will also need to work in the fan lead once it arrives but that should be easy now.
 
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