Kagama Team Corally ‘s new release 20 Sep is a 6s SCT

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Are the female connectors digikey 609-2852-nd? I take it the pin housing is the part number on the package in one of your pictures? I’d like to order supplies to DIY my own connectors.
 
Ready!
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danl said:
Are the female connectors digikey 609-2852-nd? I take it the pin housing is the part number on the package in one of your pictures? I’d like to order supplies to DIY my own connectors.
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Those ared Amphenol Mini-PV connectors, formerly Dupont Electronics, Formerly Berg. They were invented by Berg Electric in the mid 1950's and were the first 0.1 pitch square connector with crimped terminals. By today's standards they are ridiculously over engineered and have positioned themselves among less expensive lower quality products as a premium option. Compared to the usual Harwin M20 terminals you find in many hobby servos today which are rated for around 300 cycles or so Mini-PV terminals are rated for over 1000 cycles.

Back in the day, R/C servos used Mini-PV, today they use cheap function-alike options, usually whatever is cheapest.

Problem with Mini-PV is they can't be crimped with generic crimp dies, or at best not reliably, you need the real official tool. New it costs $1800 but you can find used ones on ebay from time to time for around $100 or so.

Further reading: https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/dupont-and-dupont-connectors/

I really wish the R/C hobby would just switch over to Molex-SL, the "plain square" three position housing is perfectly compatible with the 0.1" pin headers on RC equipment and they are also easy to crimp with generic crimp dies. They also have a latching wire to wire housing.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Question: did anyone get those new wheel hexes? I just noticed it’s on the box, but mine don’t have the white lettering on them.

View attachment 10653
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I didn’t get them, but also I’m sure I read or heard somewhere (maybe Corally video) they said it would come with enclosed wheel nuts !!
 
BashingBrian said:
I didn’t get them, but also I’m sure I read or heard somewhere (maybe Corally video) they said it would come with enclosed wheel nuts !!
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Strange. Those new wheel nuts with text on them are on the box, but apparently not on the actual Shiroi.🤷‍♂️
 
So getting those little o-rings back on the pins that hold the tower is damn near impossible with my sausage fingers in such a cramped space. They really need to replace those with a snap over plastic clip with a tab on the side.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Those ared Amphenol Mini-PV connectors, formerly Dupont Electronics, Formerly Berg. They were invented by Berg Electric in the mid 1950's and were the first 0.1 pitch square connector with crimped terminals. By today's standards they are ridiculously over engineered and have positioned themselves among less expensive lower quality products as a premium option. Compared to the usual Harwin M20 terminals you find in many hobby servos today which are rated for around 300 cycles or so Mini-PV terminals are rated for over 1000 cycles.

Back in the day, R/C servos used Mini-PV, today they use cheap function-alike options, usually whatever is cheapest.

Problem with Mini-PV is they can't be crimped with generic crimp dies, or at best not reliably, you need the real official tool. New it costs $1800 but you can find used ones on ebay from time to time for around $100 or so.

Further reading: https://www.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/dupont-and-dupont-connectors/

I really wish the R/C hobby would just switch over to Molex-SL, the "plain square" three position housing is perfectly compatible with the 0.1" pin headers on RC equipment and they are also easy to crimp with generic crimp dies. They also have a latching wire to wire housing.
Click to expand...
In the article you linked the author said the hozan p-707 crimps “to perfection” but requires three steps. I own the hozan, so I’ll order up some pins, sockets, and housings to see how it turns out.
 
The Leopard motor has very short leads they just run the motor windings out of the housing and attach bullet connectors to them so some extensions are needed.

Prepping extensions with bootlace ferrules. I do this instead of tinning because it creates a soldered connection with no wicking which is hard to avoid with very fine stranded wire.

leopard_splice_001.webp


Round crimps for the 6.5mm bullet connectors and square crimps for the splices. I trim the unused part of the ferrule off (the stripped wire is shorter than the ferrule length to avoid wasting wire) then polish the end of the strands with a dremel to make solid layer of copper over the cross section of the wire and make clean rounded ends.

leopard_splice_002.webp


leopard_splice_003.webp


Wires soldered into bullet connectors with zero wicking up the wire strands. Wicking can lead to the strands breaking off the solder joint in a high vibration environment. Soldering a crimped gas tight ferrule into the connector avoids this.

leopard_splice_004.webp


Extensions soldered to the motor wires with a lap splice. These are coated magnet wire so wicking is less of an issue here as you have to cook it for a long time to get it to wick further up the wire. Also thicker strands are just less prone to soak up solder, fine stranded "noodle" wire will soak it up like a sponge due to the larger surface area.

leopard_splice_005.webp
 
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danl said:
In the article you linked the author said the hozan p-707 crimps “to perfection” but requires three steps. I own the hozan, so I’ll order up some pins, sockets, and housings to see how it turns out.
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I actually prefer the P706 because it's smaller and easier to use with tiny terminals but some people have weak hands and need the ratchet to get a tight crimp. I just bear down on the P706 and it makes a crimp tight enough that the wire will break before it pulls out.

That is before I got the proper official tool for it, I only use the 706 for other purposes now.
 
Atomic Skull said:
So getting those little o-rings back on the pins that hold the tower is damn near impossible with my sausage fingers in such a cramped space. They really need to replace those with a snap over plastic clip with a tab on the side.
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yes, those tiny o-rings are a PITA. Can you imagine fiddling around with them in the field? Had to do it once, and as of then I immediately replace them with these:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExrjvYs
 
SirCrashALot said:
I solved that

I found other pins.

View attachment 10691
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I don't like the idea of the tower being supported by a threaded screw instead of a non threaded shaft. What I would do is find a really long M4 screw with a non threaded section close to the right lenght and then cut the threaded part down. But I think the clip idea is best just tether them to the tower and you can't loose them.
 
Anyone know what size of the Hobao Hyper 8SC tire is? Because they are very cheap especially once you start recycling the wheels.

https://www.hobao-usa.com/product/89816-8sc-wheel-2pcs/
https://www.hobao-usa.com/product/89817-8sc-tires-2pcs/

Plus you glue them yourself so you can strap the inside with gorilla tape for proper belted SCT tires which AFAIK do not currently exist for 1/8 SCTs.

Also I trust my own glue more I've had so many preglued tires come apart and need to be reglued anyway I'd rather just do right the first time myself.
 
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Atomic Skull said:
I don't like the idea of the tower being supported by a threaded screw instead of a non threaded shaft. What I would do is find a really long M4 screw with a non threaded section close to the right lenght and then cut the threaded part down. But I think the clip idea is best just tether them to the tower and you can't loose them.
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These are unidentified hinge pins i found in my parts bin.

IMG_20251012_081850497.webp
 
You can just use a body clip in lieu of the o ring. You can even use the body clip retainers so you don’t lose them.
 
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