Asuga New Asuga XLR roller/RTR

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I find any rig with exposed shock towers and low body to be vulnerable to tower damage. As such, they don't make for good (big air) jumpers. I mean, sure they jump just fine, but bad landings add up quickly in repair costs..between the lack of air control from smaller tires, low ground clearance and exposed shock towers, I don't consider a buggy as a suitable big air vehicle. The typically narrow stance of a buggy hurts for big jumping too..
I know there's plenty out there doing it, but there's much better vehicles available for big air jumping IMO. 😉
 
KnowAir said:
Yes, the wing material is all wrong on the TC's. I replaced my xtr wing with one I've had kicking around for years. If I had to guess, I think it might be Proline not sure. Waay more flexible than the TC wing tho.
Maybe by the time the rollers restock I can pull it off🤞

Any thoughts on the RC Machete 1/6? Interesting size, think it's Mojave sized chassis. About 2.5" longer than a kronos but same width..
Could be a speed runner? A Redcat speedrunner!?🤣🤣
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the wing breaking has a lot to do with the wing mount as well there's no flex in it at all. I broke my wing on the kronos xtr after a few runs so got the same one again and its been fine :unsure:
 
KnowAir said:
I find any rig with exposed shock towers and low body to be vulnerable to tower damage. As such, they don't make for good (big air) jumpers. I mean, sure they jump just fine, but bad landings add up quickly in repair costs..between the lack of air control from smaller tires, low ground clearance and exposed shock towers, I don't consider a buggy as a suitable big air vehicle. The typically narrow stance of a buggy hurts for big jumping too..
I know there's plenty out there doing it, but there's much better vehicles available for big air jumping IMO. 😉
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I agree with your assessment. You see a lot of videos of folks jumping buggies, but that's not what they are designed for. Normally, a buggy is designed for racing on dirt or clay with small jumps. They are not designed as "stunt vehicles". There are plenty of stunt vehicles available for extreme jumping: Corally has several on a 1/8 scale.

I run my Radix6 mostly on dirt with few jumps. I have added the protective shock caps from a Sketer to my Radix6: they help to protect the Radix shocks and shock towers in the rare instance where the Radix might flip over. It's not a perfect solution, but it helps.
 
morrjr71 said:
I agree with your assessment. You see a lot of videos of folks jumping buggies, but that's not what they are designed for. Normally, a buggy is designed for racing on dirt or clay with small jumps. They are not designed as "stunt vehicles". There are plenty of stunt vehicles available for extreme jumping: Corally has several on a 1/8 scale.

I run my Radix6 mostly on dirt with few jumps. I have added the protective shock caps from a Sketer to my Radix6: they help to protect the Radix shocks and shock towers in the rare instance where the Radix might flip over. It's not a perfect solution, but it helps.
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Yes, those shock caps do a great service of protecting the shocks and hardware. I was just running an Xray buggy on my track at home yesterday, it's clay, relatively rough, at least for a buggy.. It's very evident just how better suited the truggies and MT's are for rough terrain when you run them back to back. The 1/8 buggies really shine on a prepped surface.. they're pretty much the equivalent of F1 in off road rc's..but, for me, bashers they are not. Of course everyone is free to use them however they see fit.
 
hobo said:
the wing breaking has a lot to do with the wing mount as well there's no flex in it at all. I broke my wing on the kronos xtr after a few runs so got the same one again and its been fine :unsure:
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I think the wing mount material is wrong too. It's too rigid/brittle. The wing material is slightly less flexible than normal, but they seem to start failing in the same place each time before they completely break.

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Both wing and wing mount could use being a bit more flexible I reckon. And a revised shape of wing should reduce the probability of failure along those moulding lines. 🤔
 
Horatio said:
I think the wing mount material is wrong too. It's too rigid/brittle. The wing material is slightly less flexible than normal, but they seem to start failing in the same place each time before they completely break.

View attachment 3913
View attachment 3914

Both wing and wing mount could use being a bit more flexible I reckon. And a revised shape of wing should reduce the probability of failure along those moulding lines. 🤔
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I put the arrma wing mount bit in the middle of the wing and nut and bolt it through both side seems to hold up then
 
So i had some time to fix my Asuga. Went back from 15t to 14t. Hope it runs cooler. Fast enough on 6s anyway. Now i ran into a common problem. Wanted to change diff fluid. So i got my diff out and wanted to open it. Killed the last screw. Could not get it loose. Now i cant get it out at all. Anyone got a tip to get it out? Thanks

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The Stig said:
So i had some time to fix my Asuga. Went back from 15t to 14t. Hope it runs cooler. Fast enough on 6s anyway. Now i ran into a common problem. Wanted to change diff fluid. So i got my diff out and wanted to open it. Killed the last screw. Could not get it loose. Now i cant get it out at all. Anyone got a tip to get it out? Thanks

View attachment 6605
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Dremel a slot into the hex head with a cutting disk, then use a flat bladed screwdriver to get it out.

Or - you can use the 'easy out' it's basically a left handed metal corkscrew. 👍

Here's the tool I was on about ...

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Or these.....
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Try the Dremel trick first though. It's surprising how effective it is on M3 and M4 size screws.
 
I would say, try the Dremel trick. I've tried the extractor bits but it didn't worked for me. Ended up drilling out the head and with a pair of needle nose pliers the remaining part of the bolt.
 
Spoon said:
I would say, try the Dremel trick. I've tried the extractor bits but it didn't worked for me. Ended up drilling out the head and with a pair of needle nose pliers the remaining part of the bolt.
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Will do the dremel trick of that does not work......i need a new diff. Oh wait i have the same from my Sketer. Updated that one. Lucky me. But still i think i am gonna get a Erik van Ravenstein one 😱
 
Wich dremel part should i use 2 cut a slot in the screw? Is is a tiny screw and i don't want to cut in the diff.
 
The Stig said:
Wich dremel part should i use 2 cut a slot in the screw? Is is a tiny screw and i don't want to cut in the diff.
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Like this:

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It looks like the countersunk hex head is raised far enough above the spur to give you enough meat to cut a slot.

Get it perfectly central. Don't use too thick a cutting wheel.

Proceed with caution, but even if you brush against the steel spur, it'll only be a 'battle wound'. Or a 'distinguishing scar'. 😝

As a bonus, the heat from cutting should loosen up any threadlock.

If the head breaks off and worst comes to the worst, you'll have to drill a tiny hole and use the smallest extractors shown above.

Let us know how you get on! 👍 Good luck.
 
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