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Are you keeping your steering components loose? I.e. your pivot ball nuts should be pretty free and everything move easily when the servo is disconnected. There should be no drag whatsoever. If there is, it will burn out the servo because it's constantly fighting the friction.
 
razorrc said:
Are you keeping your steering components loose? I.e. your pivot ball nuts should be pretty free and everything move easily when the servo is disconnected. There should be no drag whatsoever. If there is, it will burn out the servo because it's constantly fighting the friction.
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I do, I always make sure there is just the slightest amount of wiggle at the pivot balls. The fact that a $20 DS servo has happily done the job for over a year now is proof enough for me. The first TC servo developed a constant glitch as if not detecting "center", on the second one the output shaft twisted. My brother's rtr Kronos servo just got weaker and weaker as it ran through a pack. Would start off fine but within 5 minutes or less, just would not turn lock to lock..that sounds like possibly too tight in the steering components I agree. His rig, he's the "wrench" so, I didn't get involved.. he replaced it with something else. Fine now🤷‍♂️
 
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razorrc said:
Are you keeping your steering components loose?
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Of course. I made sure of this on reassembly. I also made sure to apply bearing grease on the pivot balls due to being steel on aluminum.
 
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The RTR servos are pretty unreliable IMO, but 3 packs is pretty low assuming everything else is OK (end points set, servo saver not too tight, etc.)
 
razorrc said:
The RTR servos are pretty unreliable IMO, but 3 packs is pretty low assuming everything else is OK (end points set, servo saver not too tight, etc.)
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The steering moves very freely with no resistance or binds what so ever, so I’m under the assumption that the servo is correctly set. unless I’m missing something.

maybe you can give your advice on how to precisely adjust a servo or know when its set just right.
 
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All parts should be here Sat. I was hoping by tomorrow but rchobbyexplosion didn’t get my order out as fast as they usually does.

I planned on taking to a friends house that has 5 open acres to let it rip on Sunday but we will see.
 
KERTWOOD said:
The steering moves very freely with no resistance or binds what so ever, so I’m under the assumption that the servo is correctly set. unless I’m missing something.

maybe you can give your advice on how to precisely adjust a servo or know when its set just right.
Click to expand...


Should help
 
Mail call

Parts:
- Dogbones Long Rear Steel: C-00180-367
- Anti-Roll Bar Rear 2.6mm: C-00180-246
- Suspension Arm Long V2 Lower Rear: C-00180-099-2 (X2)
- Suspension Arm Long V2 Upper Rear: C-00180-101-2 (X2)
- Suspension Arm Long V2 Lower Rear: C-1800-100-2 (X2)
- Body Mount Adjustable Front: C-000180-692
- Body Mount Adjustable Rear: C-000180-693
- Rear Camber Ball Joint Inner-Outer: C-000180-041
- Turnbuckle M4 92mm: C-000180-144-2 (X2)
- Body Clip Retainer w/ Body Clip: C-000180-614
- Shock Cap Procter: C-000180-658
- HD Shock End Long: C-000180-769
- Center Roll Cage Foam 25mm: C-000180-834
- Center Roll Cage Mount Chassis Tube Version- C-000180-716
- CS-5245 HV Ultra High-Torque Steel Gear 45kg Servo: C-52005

​

You'll notice that some of the above parts are replacement factory RTR parts. I made the mistake and rolled the truck on asphalt without the body on and I learned from that lesson. I messed up and ordered two set of M4 Turnbuckles and I needed 1 set of M4 and M5. I placed another order last night for the missing M5 turnbuckles, Rear Heavy Springs and a piece that I lost in the chaos w/ was the Wheelie Bar Axle.


image_50745089.JPG



Teardown.
image_50403073.JPG



Build back.
image_50460673.JPG


I'll install the servo and adjust the steering per @razorrc instructional video today and that should be it until I receive the next order this week.
 
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KERTWOOD said:
Mail call

Parts:
- Dogbones Long Rear Steel: C-00180-367
- Anti-Roll Bar Rear 2.6mm: C-00180-246
- Suspension Arm Long V2 Lower Rear: C-00180-099-2 (X2)
- Suspension Arm Long V2 Upper Rear: C-00180-101-2 (X2)
- Suspension Arm Long V2 Lower Rear: C-1800-100-2 (X2)
- Body Mount Adjustable Front: C-000180-692
- Body Mount Adjustable Rear: C-000180-693
- Rear Camber Ball Joint Inner-Outer: C-000180-041
- Turnbuckle M4 92mm: C-000180-144-2 (X2)
- Body Clip Retainer w/ Body Clip: C-000180-614
- Shock Cap Procter: C-000180-658
- HD Shock End Long: C-000180-769
- Center Roll Cage Foam 25mm: C-000180-834
- Center Roll Cage Mount Chassis Tube Version- C-000180-716
- CS-5245 HV Ultra High-Torque Steel Gear 45kg Servo: C-52005

​

You'll notice that some of the above parts are replacement factory RTR parts. I made the mistake and rolled the truck on asphalt without the body on and I learned from that lesson. I messed up and ordered two set of M4 Turnbuckles and I needed 1 set of M4 and M5. I placed another order last night for the missing M5 turnbuckles, Rear Heavy Springs and a piece that I lost in the chaos w/ was the Wheelie Bar Axle.


View attachment 4629


Teardown.
View attachment 4630


Build back.
View attachment 4631

I'll install the servo and adjust the steering per @razorrc instructional video today and that should be it until I receive the next order this week.
Click to expand...
is this the size of a Jambo now?
 
Wheels007 said:
is this the size of a Jambo now?
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To be honest I have no clue. I’ve only ever seen one Corally model in person and it’s the one in this Thread.


I can’t catch a break. I bought two of these Redline batteries at the same time. Charged them up, used one once and the other twice. Put them in storage mode and placed them in one of my batt boxes. Went to charge one and it says Cell Low! Plugged the other one in and it was fine and still in storage range. It charged it back up just as it’s suppose to.

Me not wanting to throw away a brand new $100+ battery I went on YouTube and found a couple of videos of “How to recover” a lipo. I’m trying that method now with fingers crossed. Plan on charging it on NICM to about 13.2 and hope I can save it.

IMG_3304.jpeg

IMG_3302.jpeg

IMG_3305.jpeg


Wish me Luck!
 
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KERTWOOD said:
To be honest I have no clue. I’ve only ever seen one Corally model in person and it’s the one in this Thread.


I can’t catch a break. I bought two of these Redline batteries at the same time. Charged them up, used one once and the other twice. Put them in storage mode and placed them in one of my batt boxes. Went to charge one and it says Cell Low! Plugged the other one in and it was fine and still in storage range. It charged it back up just as it’s suppose to.

Me not wanting to throw away a brand new $100+ battery I went on YouTube and found a couple of videos of “How to recover” a lipo. I’m trying that method now with fingers crossed. Plan on charging it on NICM to about 13.2 and hope I can save it.

View attachment 4632
View attachment 4633
View attachment 4634

Wish me Luck!
Click to expand...
I have experienced "cell too low" several times over the years.. what has worked for me is to plug the battery into the charger without the balance lead. Set charger as usual, turn it on and let it charge for 5-10 minutes. Turn off, connect balance lead and start it back up. Should be fine, mine have "recovered" by doing that.
Now, that doesn't mean the battery is fine. It may have an issue so keep a close eye on it for a few cycles. Obviously if it drops too low again you know it's got issues. But it does happen occasionally where one cell drops below the threshold the charger is looking for..
Good luck!!
 
Got it all back together and adjusted the steering and suspension perfectly. Thanks @razorrc for the video.

I ordered all the wires and connectors to make a custom charge lead to the length I need from the Charger to where the Bat Box needs to sit under the bench. All that should be here Wednesday.

As far as mods go I think I’m done for now. The only other thing I can think of is a 6s system and a different body.

I need to buy two more batteries and then I can enjoy this Team Corally Creation.

IMG_3331.jpeg


IMG_3332.jpeg
 
The Stig said:
That thing looks epic. Looks like it.is as long as it is wide
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I’ll pull a measuring tape on it and measure center to center later on tonight.

The pics make it look so but it’s not. I’m definitely satisfied with the results though. It sits lower as well.
 
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Definitely should handle good, I widened both my radix and python with the truck arms and there's no way I'd go back to stock width!
 
KERTWOOD said:
It’s roughly 12.5” long from center of tire and 16” wide of center of tire.

😂

Sooo… I’m hopping it’s pretty stable now.
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Hell yeah! As stable as it'll ever be for sure! It's over squared now.. kinda like the Tekno MT410. Works wonders for sticking landings from jumps, not so great for cornering prowess. It is a basher though so, perfect.
 
Good News!!

It runs and handles great. Absolutely obnoxious and super fun.


Bad News..

It’s entirely to fast for a residential neighborhood. I was running down the street close to top speed and hit something in the road that threw me over to the side and I clipped a mail box post.

Lesson Learned. I will order all damaged parts plus extra sometime this week when I get time to tear it apart and access the damage. It’s definitely extensive.

IMG_3366.jpeg
 
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