So I wasn't going to mod this too much, but as you can see I went a bit overboard


This is a bit out of order of the build sequence but just go with it for now, build thread with some tips and findings along the way..
1st bash box stock..
1hr later

this is where it all started, quick strip down and check over..
All the diffs had a reasonable amount of fluid in them from the factory.!! Quick build of all the diffs F30k / C200k / R20k
Center diff all stripped down cleaned and ready to be re-built, no issues and everything all in place as it should be
Can never have too much green slime..!!
Top tip, always use this stuff when building diffs or shocks, I always coat all the O-rings..
All done and waiting to be reassembled.. Top tip #2, always let your diffs sit for a while before assembling, allow the fluid to sink into the diff so you can see the correct level..
Here is the front diff at removal, weird brown grease inside the case
You can see below the two shims on the outer bearing, they adjust the end play and correct the mesh between the spur and pinion inside the housing when assembled.
As I mentioned in a previous post, the diffs with the flared drive cups are harder to shim as you have to disassemble them to remove or replace shims..!!
You can't just slip shims over the ends like some other diffs.. ( I will say that with the two shims from the factory the mesh was nice and tight but not binding, well done Corally

)
Stripped, cleaned and waiting to be re-built.. ( you can see those shims at the top left of the kitchen towel )
Waiting to settle again....
Rear diff just removed, this time weird brown grease and also some blue stuff too

not complaining, just noting the difference..
The brown stuff is heavy and stiff, the blue stuff is marine grease to my knowledge and it seems to be the same as the Mobil XHP222 I have.
Same process as before, stripped, cleaned and reassembled. ( forgot the picture )
I didn't originally intend on half these mods but I just got carried away with it all



Here is a comparison of the chassis's weights
Stock chassis 283g
Swiss 7075 chassis 292g
I was going to do the whole de-anodise thing but decided not to in the end, just went a bit mad on color coding with washers



One other thing I've been doing along the way is removing the button head bolts and replacing them with cap heads as and when I can..!!
I can't stand button heads or CS bolts as they are far more prone to stripping the heads even with good tools ( Top tip #3

)
More soon....