Kagama Lee Spring Servo Saver Spring - What you need to know

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Thank you, I noticed however that they did not include the stiffness, which in my opinion is an important feature
 
Opua said:
Thank you, I noticed however that they did not include the stiffness, which in my opinion is an important feature
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No it was a gamble when I ordered them , you don’t know the stiffness of the original spring anyway to compare it but by finger test they stiffer lol
 
I'm hoping the Aliexpress spring will be a happy medium between the original spring and the lee spring. The lee spring works and spares the servo, but I've also broken a lot of steering components since installing it.
 
Atomic Skull said:
I'm hoping the Aliexpress spring will be a happy medium between the original spring and the lee spring. The lee spring works and spares the servo, but I've also broken a lot of steering components since installing it.
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Be nice to see a comparison between them , you’ll be the 1st to have all springs to compare them.
 
Atomic Skull said:
I'm hoping the Aliexpress spring will be a happy medium between the original spring and the lee spring. The lee spring works and spares the servo, but I've also broken a lot of steering components since installing it.
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I hear people bending their steering racks using the stock spring, which is counterintuitive - but it's likely because they clamp the stock spring all the way down, or, the accidents they had were such that certain parts were impacted in a way that were always going to break them.

Example, hitting a post with a front wheel involves forces being transferred through the trackrods, rack, servo saver and servo initially. The servo saver may save the servo from exceeding it's envelope, but the consequent wallop from steel meeting plastic may easily still result in broken parts, which in reality have nothing to do with either type of spring.

The Lee Spring is very beefy, essentially making the cam much, much firmer. This is good news for steering response, but forces required to activate the cam action increases accordingly. There is however more room for the cam to operate - about 8-9 mm.

How many of the steering components would have broken anyway, along with the servos? Impossible to define - outside of a laboratory.

However, what would be a crude test, is to compress the springs on a bathroom scale with a clamp. You can see exactly how many kg's it takes to compress the springs that you have in your possession.

In the case of the Lee Spring - it's 19mm high and is Solid at 9mm, fully compressed. It takes 2kg per mm to compress it, so given that it's a linear compression spring, we can expect 20kg to fully compress the spring. Between a finger and thumb, that exceeds what is humanly possible. The stock spring in comparison is certainly possible to compress (almost completely) between finger and thumb.

For reference, I have a hand grip strength of greater than 50kg, which is good for my age.

So I suggest anyone wishing to test the Ali express springs do so in the crude way detailed above.
 
You are thinking about it incorrectly. I break less steering components with the Lee spring because I can now avoid solid immovable objects and the rapid unscheduled disassembly of the steering system.
 
danl said:
You are thinking about it incorrectly. I break less steering components with the Lee spring because I can now avoid solid immovable objects and the rapid unscheduled disassembly of the steering system.
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☝️ 100% this.

It really helps when you have steering that works. Rather than mere suggestions of inputs that may or may not result in any steering lock, depending on the weather, or alignment of the planets! 🤣
 
To add, the problem gets exponentially worse, the heavier your wheels and tyres are, but also the faster you make your rig go.

Obviously the reason why my stock spring was useless for me was the fact that my belted Jetkos were near enough twice as heavy as my stock wheels and tyres.

To the point where steering became a lottery at speeds over about 50mph - obviously not cool when you have to avoid..... basically anything, whatsoever.

My Lee Spring took a 50 mph trip into the kerb during wet weather - nothing broke. That's good enough real world testing to tell me that the servo saver is protecting my servo saver and other components, without compromise to my steering response.

25683.webp



You can see in real time how quickly I respond to the incoming slide, and how the steering is positive.

Unfortunately, you also get to see why what I did was futile and that the accident was inevitable as soon as the car starts to rotate. 🤣🤭

The only damage:

PXL_20241010_154745313.MP.webp
 
The Jetko tomahawk SGTs I have on my Asuga started balooning after my last bash session at the park, it seems like the internal belts have detached from the tire carcasses. Leading up to this I have had to re-glue them after every previous session. Maybe I'm especially hard on my car?

tomahawk_001.webp
 
Horatio said:
☝️ 100% this.

It really helps when you have steering that works. Rather than mere suggestions of inputs that may or may not result in any steering lock, depending on the weather, or alignment of the planets! 🤣
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My first corally was the kagama Limited Edition. Fresh out of the box and on 3s I had no steering and hit a 4x4 post numerous times in my back yard. It had battle wounds within 5 minutes. I promised myself I would not scratch it the first time out. False.

My spark got a Lee spring (I ordered 5) before I took it out. I wasn’t taking any chances.
 
Atomic Skull said:
The Jetko tomahawk SGTs I have on my Asuga started balooning after my last bash session at the park, it seems like the internal belts have detached from the tire carcasses. Leading up to this I have had to re-glue them after every previous session. Maybe I'm especially hard on my car?

View attachment 10721
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I’ve got 4s punisher/skeeter tires on my spark and I’m happy with them. I typically run 4s with a 2250kv motor but I do a 6s run once or twice a week. On 6s it unloads the center diff and balloons the front, but it’s ok if you can manage the throttle. On 6s it will spit the foams, so reflow the beads before a bash. Also take some glue the first couple bashes.
 
danl said:
I’ve got 4s punisher/skeeter tires on my spark and I’m happy with them. I typically run 4s with a 2250kv motor but I do a 6s run once or twice a week. On 6s it unloads the center diff and balloons the front, but it’s ok if you can manage the throttle. On 6s it will spit the foams, so reflow the beads before a bash. Also take some glue the first couple bashes.
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My Asuga has a Mamba Monster X 8S and a 1650kv Castle 1717 motor (4685), I'm running on 6S 5000mah and 6000mah batteries with a 17T pinion.

asuga_004.webp


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It devours tires.
 
danl said:
My first corally was the kagama Limited Edition. Fresh out of the box and on 3s I had no steering and hit a 4x4 post numerous times in my back yard. It had battle wounds within 5 minutes. I promised myself I would not scratch it the first time out. False.

My spark got a Lee spring (I ordered 5) before I took it out. I wasn’t taking any chances.
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I'm just going to get a spare body for my Shiroi for display only that way I can tell myself it's perfect.
 
Atomic Skull said:
The Jetko tomahawk SGTs I have on my Asuga started balooning after my last bash session at the park, it seems like the internal belts have detached from the tire carcasses. Leading up to this I have had to re-glue them after every previous session. Maybe I'm especially hard on my car?

View attachment 10721
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The tyres may have been defective, or perhaps that 1717 was just too much for them, and the belts have failed.

My biggest gripe with my Jetko slicks besides the weight of them is the gap between the foam insert and the tyres. It causes the tyres to have flat spots. 😬
 
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