What is your Corally RC LiPo of choice - Updated 2025

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AggyMi said:
Getting back on topic, I bought two of these , purely on the basis of price as I'm just dipping my toe back in the water hobby wise. Performance wise they seem to do the job in the car, I can't really say I know any better at the moment as I'm still new to this car, but I will say this, one battery has very uniform equal low internal resistance the other one has significantly less balanced internal resistance. I guess you get what you pay for, which I expected. I'll post my figures for each battery shortly.
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I run these in the Kagama4 and of course X2 for my 8s stuff. For there price I’ve been happy with the CNHL’s there newer packs seem to be much better than from a few years ago

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shortround9191 said:
I run these in the Kagama4 and of course X2 for my 8s stuff. For there price I’ve been happy with the CNHL’s there newer packs seem to be much better than from a few years ago

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How are you getting on with that CNHL, I think I'm slightly loosing faith in the brands Q&A. I bought two 3000mah at the same time and despite balance charging, storage charging, everything in tandem one battery I would say already feels like it has around 25% less runtime.

I would say I've also cycled these batteries maybe only a dozen times or so, so I wasn't expecting a perceivable drop-off quite so early.

I might do some real world measurements soon but right now I don't think I would rush to buy another CNHL
 
I was thinking that I gots a few CNHL lipos 6 in fact but they all seem to sort themselves out after few charge cycles :). out of all the lipos I have I found not all lipos are made the same. I have had a few same make / model and the cells go out of whack quicker than its twin battery with the same use.

Fingers crossed 🤞 so far the weaker lipos all seem to balance up after a few charge cycles and last a good few runs before they go out of whack again.

The ones I have been really impressed for value for money are these bad boys think I got these for like £25 a pop!!! on sale
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...-100c-lipo-battery-pack-w-xt90-connector.html

I been getting a consistent 30mins+ run times in my syncro 4 using these since last summer, always take about 30mins to charge and balance and rarely dip below LVC 3.3v after a good blast just bloody good solid lipos and cells seems to stay around the 5Mohm not as low as the CNHL which keep hitting 1-3Mohms.
 
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Partydaz said:
I was thinking that I gots a few CNHL lipos 6 in fact but they all seem to sort themselves out after few charge cycles :). out of all the lipos I have I found not all lipos are made the same. I have had a few same make / model and the cells go out of whack quicker than its twin battery with the same use.

Fingers crossed 🤞 so far the weaker lipos all seem to balance up after a few charge cycles and last a good few runs before they go out of whack again.

The ones I have been really impressed for value for money are these bad boys think I got these for like £25 a pop!!! on sale
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy...-100c-lipo-battery-pack-w-xt90-connector.html

I been getting a consistent 30mins+ run times in my syncro 4 using these since last summer, always take about 30mins to charge and balance and rarely dip below LVC 3.3v after a good blast just bloody good solid lipos and cells seems to stay around the 5Mohm not as low as the CNHL which keep hitting 1-3Mohms.
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Thanks for the response, thirty mins is a good solid run time, I know I'm only running 3000mah, but I don't think the weaker of the two packs even makes it into double minute figures, though I realise this is all highly subjective until I take some actual measurements.. I'll take a look at those turnigys 👍🏽
 
AggyMi said:
How are you getting on with that CNHL, I think I'm slightly loosing faith in the brands Q&A. I bought two 3000mah at the same time and despite balance charging, storage charging, everything in tandem one battery I would say already feels like it has around 25% less runtime.

I would say I've also cycled these batteries maybe only a dozen times or so, so I wasn't expecting a perceivable drop-off quite so early.

I might do some real world measurements soon but right now I don't think I would rush to buy another CNHL
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I’m pretty easy on them first few runs and they seem like the more they get used the better they start to perform. I was a little disappointed at first but 5-6 runs down to 40% there balanced great and last a lot better than many others I’ve used. Now these are the newer packs the older ones I’m not crazy about. I also don’t buy any under 70c rating
 
These ones are from my local hobby shop, and branded as such. I am thinking they are chnl maybe white label rebranded.
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These ovonicsI have just started using, definitely more punch and power than the above.
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AggyMi said:
I'm beginning to suspect the "alledged" 70c on the plastic wrapper is not man enough for the ESC amp draw.
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I might tend to agree. Although Im a bit trigger happy at times but with my cnhl's 5000 70c my Punisher 4 frequently goes into thermal protection and this is after taming it down some. Gonna order the 5000 100c that they just came out with and see if any difference. Any thoughts why my esc would consistently run hotter than motor??
 
slomoe said:
I might tend to agree. Although Im a bit trigger happy at times but with my cnhl's 5000 70c my Punisher 4 frequently goes into thermal protection and this is after taming it down some. Gonna order the 5000 100c that they just came out with and see if any difference. Any thoughts why my esc would consistently run hotter than motor??
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The elephant in the room with all these c ratings on batteries is that more often than not the gauge of the wire isn't rated for the claimed maximum output amperage or even the constant sometimes. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
slomoe said:
I might tend to agree. Although Im a bit trigger happy at times but with my cnhl's 5000 70c my Punisher 4 frequently goes into thermal protection and this is after taming it down some. Gonna order the 5000 100c that they just came out with and see if any difference. Any thoughts why my esc would consistently run hotter than motor??
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Can be due to several causes.
- a broken or clogged esc fan
- too big of a pinion (high gearing)
- binding in the motor or drivetrain. This causes lower motor rpm and higher amp draw. Check your motor bearings if you haven’t checked them in a while. Motor bearings are often overlooked compared to the other bearings in the car
- an undersized esc. But I I assume you did not install an esc with a lower amp capacity. If you are trigger happy and have high ambient temps or run on high amp draw surfaces, you might want to consider a bigger/stronger esc.
 
I think the problem with Lipos is that the capacity is a made up figure. C ratings can also be a work of fiction, too.

The packs I'm running for racing are nowhere near 5300mah. After some testing, I think a much more realistic value would be 3500mah.

They're rated for 140c. Perhaps - but there's no way I'm putting that value to the test. Checking my logs, I see that they're holding excellent voltage, which from a racing point of view, is of primary importance.

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These 2S HV packs peaked at 8.9v!!! And finished the 5 minute race with around 8v, with peak current supplied at 102A. Every lap saw speeds in excess of 40mph, with peak speed in the final of 42mph - indoors! 🤯 Voltage sagged to a value no lower than 7.2V, which is why it's a very good idea to switch Low Voltage Protection off on your ESC when you're racing. It's not helpful entering limp mode on the last lap of your qualifying round. 🤣

Ahem, you can also see my crash on lap 14, costing me a lap. 🤭🤣

Based on these figures, I would be very keen to try a 6S Redline pack for speed runs on my XTR.....😜
 
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slomoe said:
I might tend to agree. Although Im a bit trigger happy at times but with my cnhl's 5000 70c my Punisher 4 frequently goes into thermal protection and this is after taming it down some. Gonna order the 5000 100c that they just came out with and see if any difference. Any thoughts why my esc would consistently run hotter than motor??
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I speculate that the reason for your ESC being hotter than your motor is that your batteries are down on voltage during use and are sagging.

Your motor demands whatever it needs from the ESC and if your batteries are down in Voltage, it will draw more current from your ESC, which could be the reason for the higher temps.

Try a new HV pack and see if your ESC runs cooler. 🤞
 
Liperior is still the price/performance leader and still places in the top half of the RC Groups battery testing lists (this list is determined by a consistent bench testing process by a retired Boieing engineer to determine real world performance)
 
Atomic Skull said:
Liperior is still the price/performance leader and still places in the top half of the RC Groups battery testing lists (this list is determined by a consistent bench testing process by a retired Boieing engineer to determine real world performance)
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The packs look pretty good - if you can find something relevant. For RC cars, I prefer Hardcase packs. For racing - it's mandatory anyway.

I noticed a 5000mah 50-100c 4S pack with XT60 - for £56. With XT90'S, I suppose you could use them with our rigs provided you don't go crazy.

On the other hand, Onyx 6S HV hardcase packs are 75/150C, 6000mah and are £89. These are now 4.35v/cell. 26.1v on a freshly charged pack! 🤩 with 10 AWG wires. Connectors of your choice.

Whilst I run Gens Redline shorties (5300 - 140c), I can actually source the Onyx 2S HV packs slightly less at £49 per pack, and they sit 2mm lower. 🤩

These will almost certainly be my choice for 2wd mod buggy.

So I suppose context is everything.

Are the capacities a work of fiction? Yes, in almost every case.

Would you attempt to run your packs at 140c discharge? Nope.

But I know when I run 102amps through my 5.5t that my Redlines are delivering the ponies - even at nearly 48k rpm and 43mph.

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With onyx 2s race packs - this might be even better!
 
Nelson.81 said:
Your most common brands majority of bashers probably gonna use rated.

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Watched this one yesterday, as much as I admire his testing methodology, I still find it flawed in he only tests one battery from each manufacturer. Test half a dozen identical batteries and I'm sure you'll find the results are all over the place especially for the low to mid end prices packs .
 
I think the biggest problem with Lipos (if we ignore their volatility) is the way that some manufacturers just make up their numbers.

Now whilst I'm actually very impressed with my Gens Redline packs - there's no way they are 5300mah. After a couple of months of testing them, I think a more realistic figure would be 3000mah.

I charge them at 3a and with them at approximately 30%, I get around 2100mah into them. At a lower charge rate, perhaps I'd get 2500mah into them from storage levels.

We often focus on capacity when really what we need for spec racing is low internal resistance.

Voltage/C rating for punch.

Capacity for endurance.

Lipo cell technology is improving and C ratings are getting better, but we also know that these numbers are easy to lie about.

The page I linked to doesn't discuss Onyx, which as you know powered the current fastest RC car in the world

Often the brands hailed as the best bang for your buck option aren't available in certain regions. High performance Onyx packs are a significantly better option per £ spent if you live in the UK, as they are significantly cheaper domestically. And my understanding is that they much closer to the advertised specs than most other brands.

I'll be looking forward to trying their new HV 2s packs in 2WD buggy and the 6S HV Graphene packs in the XTR for speed runs in 2026. 🤞
 
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