What is your Corally RC LiPo of choice - Updated 2025

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I’m going to charge this pack up today see how the Spark likes it Hivolt packs are so nice in these buggies

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Little update on the SMC 67/5800 hi volt pack 24min of continuous bashing came back in with 38% left in the pack. Now these are older but barely used packs super happy with the drive times and yes guys I like my hivolt packs around 30-40% left in the tank. Just easier on them and they seem to hold up much better. Anyone not using with the ability should try out the SMC packs even there green standard LiPo packs are amazing. Here’s a pic of each as can be seen the 6700 is just a tad taller than the 6000

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Danny from SMC is a total hands on owner I’ve spoken with him several times. Like one occasion all my fault I’d ordered 2 4s packs I reached out to Danny thinking they had sent the wrong ones even though he provided my order that I chose the wrong connector he offered to exchange free of charge. In my case I installed the right connectors but other than TC SMC Motion RC I’ve yet to have a good warranty experience with any other RC distributor. Like on my AR10360t that’s a $200 receiver that port 4 ( aileron for us plane guys ) did absolutely nothing the manufacturer had me do videos installing the damn thing in over 5 planes even though I’d done with there brand receiver ( less channels ) showing there were no issues with my plane. Literally after a month they finally said ship it back we will test it customer service is everything in business why other than there receivers ( to far vested financially ) I’ll not buy another product from that company. Sure like yall I spend a lot well over 40k last year alone. Great to see SMC packs at the top I’ve bragged on them for years now
 
shortround9191 said:
Danny from SMC is a total hands on owner I’ve spoken with him several times. Like one occasion all my fault I’d ordered 2 4s packs I reached out to Danny thinking they had sent the wrong ones even though he provided my order that I chose the wrong connector he offered to exchange free of charge. In my case I installed the right connectors but other than TC SMC Motion RC I’ve yet to have a good warranty experience with any other RC distributor. Like on my AR10360t that’s a $200 receiver that port 4 ( aileron for us plane guys ) did absolutely nothing the manufacturer had me do videos installing the damn thing in over 5 planes even though I’d done with there brand receiver ( less channels ) showing there were no issues with my plane. Literally after a month they finally said ship it back we will test it customer service is everything in business why other than there receivers ( to far vested financially ) I’ll not buy another product from that company. Sure like yall I spend a lot well over 40k last year alone. Great to see SMC packs at the top I’ve bragged on them for years now
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SMC's packs consistently place near the top of JetMan Joe's battery load testing list on RCG. And that's real lab testing not just opinion. They are hands down better than batteries that cost hundreds of dollars per pack, which ironically usually place near the bottom of his list. It seems like the more expensive the pack the worse they are, almost all of the brands that pass load testing with good results are budget and mid market brands.
 
shortround9191 said:
Have you watched the videos of them making and testing them.
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I have not but I imagine you'd make them with a spot welder. You can solder packs if you have a very powerful iron and prep the batteries first with sandpaper and flux and pretin a spot to solder the tin plated copper strip quickly by pressing it onto the tinned spot, but a 60W Hakko station won't cut it you need at least a 150W soldering station for this. You can NOT have the iron in contact with the battery for more than about 2 seconds at any time.

I have made 2S receiver packs like this for years but it would be tedious for anything larger and I'm just going to get a spot welder for that.
 
Atomic Skull said:
I have not but I imagine you'd make them with a spot welder. You can solder packs if you have a very powerful iron and prep the batteries first with sandpaper and flux and pretin a spot to solder the tin plated copper strip quickly by pressing it onto the tinned spot, but a 60W Hakko station won't cut it you need at least a 150W soldering station for this. You can NOT have the iron in contact with the battery for more than about 2 seconds at any time.

I have made 2S receiver packs like this for years but it would be tedious for anything larger and I'm just going to get a spot welder for that.
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I’ll try to find the videos for you it’s been a few months since I watched the how to videos but were very informative
 
Atomic Skull said:
SMC's packs consistently place near the top of JetMan Joe's battery load testing list on RCG. And that's real lab testing not just opinion. They are hands down better than batteries that cost hundreds of dollars per pack, which ironically usually place near the bottom of his list. It seems like the more expensive the pack the worse they are, almost all of the brands that pass load testing with good results are budget and mid market brands.
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Most definitely early on I was Spektrum only now I’m not going to beat up on there quality. I still have many 2-3s I’ve had for years with little to no puffing, however there cost especially when I went to 6s was down right hurtful. Admiral 4K $100 Spektrum $150 SMC Green reg LiPo $50 with there then 4400/3800 packs $70 that on jets when the grass is full are the ONLY packs that consistently get you rotated with ease compared to a standard pack while giving considerably longer flight or drive time. Now the only other packs I’ve been buying are CNHL they always seem to have a sale going and have actually held up pretty good. Some of these packs are first gen like the 44/3800’s I’ve abused horribly with well over 60 flights alone on my FW F16 in the heat of summer to 50d winter days and they just keep getting it done

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Smc do score consistently high, rc explained another channel does lots of testing quite technical if that your thing. He’s been doing lots of comparison tests lately on Lipo.

 
He is very boring but knowledgeable I don’t always watch all will skip through to what I’m looking into. I started watching one with him doing tires and had to go to another video.
 
He was the first I watched on testing LiPo’s actually stumbled on him think I searched for best LiPo batteries. I’m not sure on RC cars but on jets C ratings are very noticeable not always power wise but flight times. I picked a wrong CNHL pack only 40c rated 5k 6s then 2 5k 70c packs ( issue from the horse kick ) anyways both packs flown exactly the same 3 minutes flight ( stinks ) the 40c always 10-18% pack left the 70c 3 min consistently at 30-36%. That’s a big deal flying not every approach is ideal there are times a go around is needed with 10% left your really chancing running out of power.
 
I also don’t allow my packs to go under 20% yes it’s happened a few times when testing flight times just not something I will personally do on the norm. Again it’s paid off I believe I’ve only cooked 2 packs both totally my fault. One I plain forgot it was fully charged ( over a week ) the second I crashed got pissed off threw the plane in the shed forgetting it had an expensive pack in it which killed 4 cells. Sucked big time for a $120 battery
 
Getting back on topic, I bought two of these , purely on the basis of price as I'm just dipping my toe back in the water hobby wise. Performance wise they seem to do the job in the car, I can't really say I know any better at the moment as I'm still new to this car, but I will say this, one battery has very uniform equal low internal resistance the other one has significantly less balanced internal resistance. I guess you get what you pay for, which I expected. I'll post my figures for each battery shortly.
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