Kagama Team Corally ‘s new release 20 Sep is a 6s SCT

[Sandracer_NL]

Woop woop!

 

[Atomic Skull]

All Corally cars use the same diffs and bulkheads. The Shiroi and Spark drive trains are just as tough as the Kagama's and Muraco's. I don't see a problem.

Kagama uses 170mm tires I think 210mm MT tires might just be too big for the 1/8 scale 6s drivetrain. I have a Castle 1717 motor and a Mamba Monster X 8S which is a 1/6 scale power system in my Asuga and I've had issues with the center dogbones and drive cups wearing out fast. 1/5 scale MT tires may cause similar issues with the front and rear drives.

 

[Atomic Skull]

UPS delivered

 

[Atomic Skull]

Seems like the Asuga Rebel and Reflex tires would fit with no problems there's plenty of room under the body's wheel wells for slightly bigger tires. Stock tires are the same size as 1/8 scale buggy tires which opens up a lot of options.

Also I think it would look really cool with Kagama arms and hubs and monster truck tires on it, the narrower shock mounting on the towers and softer suspension would produce more scale like body roll and suspension dropout then you'd get by putting the Shiroi body on a Kagama. I mean it'd perform worse but it'd look cool and that's kinda the whole point of a SCT.

 

[Atomic Skull]

So the hobbystar motor I ordered was refunded because the seller was out of stock, ugh. Now I have to wait longer for the motor. Ordered an 1800kv Leopard 4 pole 4274 sensored motor instead, I'll use the 16T speedup pinion which will put the top speed about 58mph.

 

[Rotauq]

 

[Atomic Skull]

Is that servo a Yipin GX3255BLS? I have that in my Asuga and will be using one in my Shiroi as well. It's survived some serous abuse including a crash that twisted the servo arm and bent screw holding the servo ball on, another that ripped the plastic link off the turnbuckle and twice where the servo ball broke off from the control arm on the steering knuckle. For $35 it is a steal, the only downside is you can't buy gear sets but at $35 it's cheap enough to just replace the whole servo if the gears get stripped (which so far hasn't happened)

 

[Rotauq]

Is that servo a Yipin GX3255BLS? I have that in my Asuga and will be using one in my Shiroi as well. It's survived some serous abuse including a crash that twisted the servo arm and bent screw holding the servo ball on, another that ripped the plastic link off the turnbuckle and twice where the servo ball broke off from the control arm on the steering knuckle. For $35 it is a steal, the only downside is you can't buy gear sets but at $35 it's cheap enough to just replace the whole servo if the gears get stripped (which so far hasn't happened)

Exactly that one yes, the red brushless one.
I was already impressed by their brushed version with helical gears. Somehow its way more precise. It makes me do corners on track that i couldn't with others(up to a reasonable price range).
When the brushless version was released and it impressed me more, I basically replaced all my servo's in my active fleet.

 

[Atomic Skull]

Exactly that one yes, the red brushless one.
I was already impressed by their brushed version with helical gears. Somehow its way more precise. It makes me do corners on track that i couldn't with others(up to a reasonable price range).
When the brushless version was released and it impressed me more, I basically replaced all my servo's in my active fleet.

It'll probably go up in price like the Yipin AK47 servo did once word gets around. They have similar specs excepot that the AK47 has an all metal shell straight gears an and a hall sensor (they call it a "magnetic induction" sensor) and the GX3255BLS has helical gears a hybrid shell and a potentimeter for position sensing. I guess we can't just get one servo to rule them all that has all the good stuff.

My only real complaint is that they don't blob the solder joints on the leads with electronics silicone where they are soldered to the PCB (they do put some cloroprene rubber glue on the solder joints that connect to the tabs on the pot at least) I always open them up and do this myself but i don't recommend it if you aren't practiced at opening up servos that weren't designed to be opened. You have to pop off the lower half of the gearbox which is a plastic piece that sits on top of the aluminum center between it and the top cap and to do that you have to insert an m1.5 screwdriver (or some 2mm implement) between the side of the PCB and the shell from below and tap it from underneath to get it out.

Also and this is very important, NEVER use common construction silicone on electronics you MUST use a neutral cure silicone rated for use on PCBs and reactive metals. Most RTV silicone is acid cure. Tianmu 706 obtained from aliexpress is what I've been using lately, it's self leveling which means it can be tricky to use as it flows a little but that's actually a plus for this application as it will flow between the wires and the PCB by itself. Before that I was using Chip Quick self leveling electronics silicone from Digikey but that stuff is $10 a tube and I can get two tubes 3x the size of that for half the price with the Tienmu silicone and it's nearly identical (it does flow slightly more but it also sets faster).

 

[razorrc]

 

[BashingBrian]

@Rotauq .. come on don't keep us in suspense, what pinion size, motor and S battery are you using.
I still can't decide with mine what to run it on

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Good review!

 

[Sandracer_NL]

@Rotauq .. come on don't keep us in suspense, what pinion size, motor and S battery are you using.
I still can't decide with mine what to run it on

Stock 13T pinion, 4s 5000 CNHL G+, Rocket Taurus 2280kv, Castle MMX 8s.
On that field of grass we could go full throttle and agreed it could have more top speed, but for trackuse top speed most likely is sufficient.
After seeing NBRC having difficulty keeping it straight I was kind of worried. However that was on 6s.
I was relieved to see it drove straight as an arrow on 4s.
Going to build mine today!
I saw one of your comment that pinion size is somewhat limited? I hope it can accommodate a 17T or 18T (1780kv).

 

[SirCrashALot]

You sent it hard and backflipped it.
I don't think that more moderate general bashing will ever disable this car from running. It looks sturdy as heck.
Stocking up on arms may be a bit excessive.
As mentioned in Rotauq's video, my own 'Frankenstein' version, which i started building about a week and a half before the Shiroi's release, turned out to be rock solid.
Even with the leftover Radix arms from the parts bin. We briefly switched radios to try both versions. They run very much alike. Had i known about this release, i would have definitely waited for it, though.

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Had to try these shoes on.
Looks pretty sweet!
@Rotauq

 

[Rotauq]

Had to try these shoes on.
Looks pretty sweet!
@Rotauq
View attachment 10568

I think we need to take it out for a drifting session.

@Rotauq .. come on don't keep us in suspense, what pinion size, motor and S battery are you using.
I still can't decide with mine what to run it on

The video (and repeated by sandracer mentioned) my specs.

I think on 4S it's fine to run it with the 16T 'high speed' pinon. The 13T on the vid is good enough for trackuse, but on the field it could use some more topspeed. Even on the gras it wasn't breaking a sweat at all and hit max rpm with ease.
Running 4 packs without (long) breaks both the motor and esc felt (on touch) the same as the ambient temperature outside (16C)

Even looking like this on the inside the body seems to create a good airflow keeping things cool.

The MMX8S amps can push 6S power on 4S when geared accordingly. So i could even go up beyond 16T (If it fits)
The question is, at what power does the handling start to suffer? I am certain yipin servo + noble keep me in control (better than the RTR) to the point the suspension and top heavy body start work against the handling.

So far i am really impressed by the suspension though. I left everything as it was out of the box and it feels lose yet solid at the same time. Can't wait to throw it on my track (when its dry)

 

[Sandracer_NL]

Just checking a couple of pinions. 18T is maximum. Benefit with a 18T is that you don’t have to worry about setting the mesh; just position the top motor mount screw against the motor mount and you’re done.

 

[Rotauq]

So some feedback:

1. The sideguards makes access to the motormount rather difficult. Especially when one of its mounting screws in positioned below the motor (using the standard pinion 42mm motor)

2. The centersupport is still held down by those tiny rubbers in a groove. Lost, the one i didn't touch, on its maiden run

3. Wheelhex is only 4mm deep so it's wise to use my unpatented TC pin retainer rings, to keep those pins from flying out. Didn't lose any during the maiden run but Sandracer pointed out these new wheels hex depth. It certainly still increases the risk, like with all the TC buggies.

4. Wheels are still vented on the inside. And are required to be sealed off. I can imagine having them fully vented on the outside rubber can be a production-cost issue, but then again rims without the hole and a recommendation/instruction how to vent them yourself, should make all parties better off.

5. Dried grass is annoying to clean off a car. But mostly i am very pleased the new cvd's being pre-installed. The asuga just has a upgrade bag included.

6. There is so much motorspace. A 107cm TP4070 fits like a glove without any adjustments. (I did not go for that option, but it is possible)
It would block a second mounting screw of the sideguard though

 

[BashingBrian]

I found that 16T pinion or bigger and the motor mount hits the side guard..
You can remove the top 3 bolts in the side guard and remove it to give you room to remove and refit the motor..!!

Didn't get out today with mine, so tried some pinion swaps, also made some dirt guards and carbon fiber center braces..

I decided to fit the 16T pinion for my next run, going 6s, so that'll be fun..

I think to go any bigger, pinion wise your going to need to swap out to the 46T center diff spur..

 

[Sandracer_NL]

I found that 16T pinion or bigger and the motor mount hits the side guard..
You can remove the top 3 bolts in the side guard and remove it to give you room to remove and refit the motor..!!

Didn't get out today with mine, so tried some pinion swaps, also made some dirt guards and carbon fiber center braces..

I decided to fit the 16T pinion for my next run, going 6s, so that'll be fun..

I think to go any bigger, pinion wise your going to need to swap out to the 46T center diff spur..

Ohhh I didn’t put the side guard back on yet when trying pinions…
Edit: with maximum motor mount position (so 18T pinion) the side guard does fit.