Syncro Syncro4 More Punch and Power!

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Jeo79

Jeo79

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Corally RC's
  1. Muraco
I've been loving my Team Corally Syncro 4! The driveability, punch and overall performance are brilliant, and I don't want to convert it to 6S. However, I'd love to squeeze a bit more power and speed out of it while staying on 4S.

I'm considering increasing the centre diff oil weight, going up to a 16T pinion and fitting a bigger ESC fan (I've already got one on the motor).

What would you recommend to get more poke out of the Syncro 4 without sacrificing reliability or moving to 6S? Anyone tried these upgrades?
1000088461.webp
 
Fixed motor mount so 17t is your next size up from 15t. You could swap the motor, that’s a 4168 2150kv. Hobbywing 4268 2500kv or brands probably do similar motors. Old vid but if I can find it chriswithac had that motor in a typhon on 4s was pretty lively.
 
If your current temps are OK with those bigger tires you run on grass, I’d also go for 17T. Not only because of the motor mount, but also because I doubt going up 1 tooth would be very noticeable. From 15 to 17 you should definitely notice.
 
If you have the same motor mount that comes on a Punisher 4 then your options are 14/16/18t if you want proper gear mesh. With the recommended gears you're pushing your truck with the tips of your gear teeth.

The bottle neck is your ESC and motor. I recommend a Hobbywing Max8/ 4278 motor, 2250kv.
My wheels are twice as big as yours and I'm running an 18t pinion. I do not have an overheating problem.

1000000390.webp
 
Cheers guys I didnt even realise there wasn't a 16t spot and as luck would have it I have a 17t so will try that. The MX28's ballooned too muchness will go back.to stock tyres

@Nelson.81 @Sandracer_NL
 
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CatEatingTroll said:
If you have the same motor mount that comes on a Punisher 4 then your options are 14/16/18t if you want proper gear mesh. With the recommended gears you're pushing your truck with the tips of your gear teeth.

The bottle neck is your ESC and motor. I recommend a Hobbywing Max8/ 4278 motor, 2250kv.
My wheels are twice as big as yours and I'm running an 18t pinion. I do not have an overheating problem.

View attachment 13328
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Cheers.... ahh I was trying to see how far I can push the Syncro with stock electronics. I'll take up the gearing and probably thicken the centre diff fluid first and see if rhar gives enough performance.

Ironically the next RC on my wish list is the Punisher 4 as a winter basher. And that will be gettung a Max8 combo. Good to see The Punisher 4 can run such big wheels, I'm not a fan of the stock wheels for air
 
Hobbywing bl150 another cheaper alternative for esc do everything you need for a 4s rig. But here’s the vid of tlr typhon 2500kv he other vids on it not sure if he says what speeds it does but the Syncro an even lighter buggy so be even more lively in it.

 
Jeo79 said:
Ironically the next RC on my wish list is the Punisher 4 as a winter basher. And that will be gettung a Max8 combo. Good to see The Punisher 4 can run such big wheels, I'm not a fan of the stock wheels for air
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To run a Max8 on a Punisher a spacer has to be placed under the ESC to clear the tripod rear brace. I did it the hard way. I drilled my chassis so I can screw the center ESC plate mount to my chassis. I have 4mm spacers under the three bolt down points.

If anyone is interested in doing this it's easy.
From the bottom with a 2.5mm drill continue the existing hole on the bottom support of the ESC tray through the top. Mount the battery box/ESC tray to your truck. With a 2.5mm bit drill down the same hole you just made through the chassis. Widen the chassis hole to 3.2mm then counter sink the hole on the bottom (I used a 1/4" counter sink bit). Your ESC will flop up and down no more. Your chassis is only 3mm thick, be conservative when counter sinking the screw hold.
 
CatEatingTroll said:
To run a Max8 on a Punisher a spacer has to be placed under the ESC to clear the tripod rear brace. I did it the hard way. I drilled my chassis so I can screw the center ESC plate mount to my chassis. I have 4mm spacers under the three bolt down points.

If anyone is interested in doing this it's easy.
From the bottom with a 2.5mm drill continue the existing hole on the bottom support of the ESC tray through the top. Mount the battery box/ESC tray to your truck. With a 2.5mm bit drill down the same hole you just made through the chassis. Widen the chassis hole to 3.2mm then counter sink the hole on the bottom (I used a 1/4" counter sink bit). Your ESC will flop up and down no more. Your chassis is only 3mm thick, be conservative when counter sinking the screw hold.
Click to expand...
Great tips thank you. I may eventually go 6s if I do this will be useful. I may even go up to a Max8 esc anyway.
 
Quick update i changed the pinion ro 17t, I had to drill out the motor mount plate to allow fitting an m4 hex screw. I also upped the oil to 500k cst with a tiny amount of 100k and went back to the amazing stock tyres.

Now this thing rips, it ripped before but for how I like to drive I prefer it much more now.

It broke an arm early in the run so didnt get to test temps but I would bargain im on the edge of if not above what the stock combo can safely handle. It is fun though.

Next step will be a Punisher 4s Conversion which with the bigger wheels may mean I need to install a bigger esc anyway. Probably the Max 8
 
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