Asuga Stig's Asuga

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Hope the gearing inside my front or centre diff aint broken 🤞 Will look into it when i have some time.
The front wheels ballooned like crazy on 6s and it wanted to wheelie all the time. Could not go flat out. Gonna change centre diff oil to 250k i think. Front is now 10k. Should i go up with that to? To make the wheels less balloon? 20k perhaps? 🤔
 
if the front or center diff gears are broken, you'd probably hear a stomach-churning grinding noise. And they'd probably seize up. Tires are probably ballooning due to the center diff fluid being too thin. The thin front fluid could also be a factor in that.

I don't run 6S, but from most literature that I've come across it seems that 500k+ in the center and 2-300K in the front are widely used. Rear tends to be in the 100-200K range although I have read some setups where its 60-80K.

My Shogun lives on the track, so my diff fluids are markedly different as is my voltage. I only run 3-4S and my fluids are 20K front, 30K center and 10K rear. 😬
 
VaporTrail said:
if the front or center diff gears are broken, you'd probably hear a stomach-churning grinding noise. And they'd probably seize up. Tires are probably ballooning due to the center diff fluid being too thin. The thin front fluid could also be a factor in that.

I don't run 6S, but from most literature that I've come across it seems that 500k+ in the center and 2-300K in the front are widely used. Rear tends to be in the 100-200K range although I have read some setups where its 60-80K.

My Shogun lives on the track, so my diff fluids are markedly different as is my voltage. I only run 3-4S and my fluids are 20K front, 30K center and 10K rear. 😬
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Thanks bro. Will look into it when i have some time. Luckely i heard no gronding noise so hope the diffs are oke. But i order some gearing just to be on the safe side.
 
500k diff syrup in my centre diff. And a nice Erik van Ravenstein housing again. 💪 Next, change front CVD and titanium steering 👍

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I need 8 pillow ball cups for 2 cars. But, you cant buy them separately. You also need to buy the steering block. Is this right? Or am i missing something. The blocks are good but the cups are worn. Part number is C-00180-009-1
 
I've just done a quick Google, and I think I've come to the same conclusion 🤔
Looks like the ball inserts only come with the knuckles.
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Seems a little bit mad!
 
Contacted TC and they said it only comes in a set. Well, 1 set it is. My Sketer ones are more worn then the Asuga ones. Sketer steering is a bit hard.
 
Oke got my Asuga back together. Thanks to Erik van Ravenstein (find him on fb) for providing me a titanium Ackerman steering set. It all runs so smoothly. Changed the pivot ball adjusting nut to. So now lets hope i wont lose another front CVD again. Well, i have 3 spares now anyway and the Corally provided temporary fix set. So i it goes i will fix it for good.

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The Stig said:
I need 8 pillow ball cups for 2 cars. But, you cant buy them separately. You also need to buy the steering block. Is this right? Or am i missing something. The blocks are good but the cups are worn. Part number is C-00180-009-1
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Cheap 14mm pivot balls, you'll need to shim the collar to make the stem the same lenght as TC as they are made for Arrma vehicles.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804484238723.html

Get the shims here, 1mm, 0.5mm and 0.3mm should be sufficient (though I would get some 0.2 and 0.1 as well)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803848341089.html

EDIT: Misunderstood you you need new cups not balls. Check out the Hott Racing adjustment screws for new cups: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...um-delrin-cap-hub-nut-red-hraaon21n02/p650307

The cups will not fit the Corally adjustment screws but the Hott Racing screws will fit the thread in the steering block so you can just use those. The cups are made of delrin and should last longer than the stock ones.
 
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Atomic Skull said:
Cheap 14mm pivot balls, you'll need to shim the collar to make the stem the same lenght as TC as they are made for Arrma vehicles.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804484238723.html

Get the shims here, 1mm, 0.5mm and 0.3mm should be sufficient (though I would get some 0.2 and 0.1 as well)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803848341089.html

EDIT: Misunderstood you you need new cups not balls. Check out the Hott Racing adjustment screws for new cups: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...um-delrin-cap-hub-nut-red-hraaon21n02/p650307

The cups will not fit the Corally adjustment screws but the Hott Racing screws will fit the thread in the steering block so you can just use those. The cups are made of delrin and should last longer than the stock ones.
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Just ordered some corally ones. Not a Alie fan 2 be honest. Asuga is up and running again. Sketer has some steering issues. Steers rough. I think my chassis plate is bent in the front. A well, will be fixed some day 😜
 
Just installed the adu racing battery tray. Fits perfect.
Asuga is all done for now and ready 2 bash 💪 as long as the old style cvd's hold. But i have spares 😉

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That titanium steering rack looks good @The Stig . After a 'bash track day' :D lst weekend I've bent the on on my Muraco,the Spark onestills seems OK, and ordered the 7075 TC part. Hopefully it'll hold up otherwise I need to check out that titatnium one.

@HomeHere So you want a sand buggy? Have a look at the FTX DR8, also sold as Reely Raptor, also sold as FS Racing Atom. It's a tank (it only needs one small aluminium upgrade part) and very fun.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
That titanium steering rack looks good @The Stig . After a 'bash track day' :D lst weekend I've bent the on on my Muraco,the Spark onestills seems OK, and ordered the 7075 TC part. Hopefully it'll hold up otherwise I need to check out that titatnium one.

@HomeHere So you want a sand buggy? Have a look at the FTX DR8, also sold as Reely Raptor, also sold as FS Racing Atom. It's a tank (it only needs one small aluminium upgrade part) and very fun.
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Save the trouble, contact Erik van Ravenstein on FB and order the titanium one. Not sure he has one for a Muraco 🤔
 
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