Spark Spark XB6 Aluminum upgrades

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Pulled the steering back apart this morning set everything up perfectly and boy does the Spark handle so much nicer now. Toed out a touch as a 4x4 should messed with Spring adjustments front and rear till she tracks perfectly straight handles the bumps and huge on the landings

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Spark back together broke a rear lower control arm, big jump and hit a metal pipe on landing. Tore down did a total service changed shock spring adjustments diff oil thickness along with Shocks. Installed the new receiver set up the MT12 radio and what a difference that alone made. Made some runs and wow how much little changes made with huge air largest I’ve done so far and the Spark handled and laughed back. Still need to learn more on the radio stuff super happy with everyone’s suggestions there. Ran stock tires today plan on throwing the BadLands this weekend and new set of street wheel/tires. Try to take a pic shortly to share. Again thanks so much for everyone’s help and had to order a new diff for the Kagama4 the pinion stripped may need to hear back down with the larger tires I have on it
 
Well went a step further and ordered the new TC spring steel tie rod and caster camber adjuster assemblies, last will be possibly an upgraded servo also ordered the adjustable servo link. After the ADU shock towers arrive other than the battery tray not sure there’s much else I can do upgrade wise
 
Was only able to do the tie rods last night, helping my oldest son replace a floor in his house. I like them much better than the aluminum set up I originally installed
 
Got the steering servo adjustable link installed, just made fine adjustments on the road can get a good 50 yards stays perfectly straight. The Lee servo saver spring and rear caster camber adjuster should arrive tomorrow also. Other than the shock towers and doing the shock upgrade the Spark should be as bullet proof as I know how to do

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Question, what are the other holes in the steering rack for? Why would you want to move the ball forward or backward from the default position?
 
Atomic Skull said:
Question, what are the other holes in the steering rack for? Why would you want to move the ball forward or backward from the default position?
Click to expand...
I believe it’s the same as the extra shock holes changes the angle providing a little less or more steering angle. On the shocks gives different performance of the shocks I believe going to the inner hole stiffens the shocks ( less movement but also makes it more unstable at least that’s what I got from the videos I’ve watched.
 
So Dialed - Ackerman

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Ackermann or the Ackermann effect is a property of a car's suspension that causes the car's toe angle to change as the wheels are turned to each side.

In most RC cars, the Ackermann angle is positive which means the inside wheel in the turn has a larger steering angle than the outer wheel when they are turned. Drivers sometimes use zero Ackermann, which keeps the wheels parallel through all steering angles, but this is rare, usually used only in drift racing.

Your car's Ackermann can be adjusted by moving the inside or outside of the steering link either forward or back.

Depending on the car, you would do this by:

  • Using a different hole for the ball stud either on the rack (inside end of the link) or the steering arm (outside end of the link)
  • Changing the number of spacers at the rack (inside of the link). This only applies when the ball stud is aligned horizontally - if it is vertical, the spacers control bump steer.
More positive Ackermann (links straighter, more perpendicular to chassis)

  • More off-power steering
  • Smoother steering feel
  • More toe-out when wheels are turned
Less positive Ackermann (links more angled, usually moving inside of links forward or outside of links back)

  • More on-power steering
  • Twitchier, harder to drive
  • Less toe-out when wheels are turned
Courtesy of So Dialed - an encyclopedia of geometry tuning information - an RC bible.
 
All has arrived Tekno gears arrive tomorrow but I can install the Robinson for now see how they do have 14-15-16’ new Lee servo saver springs and rear turnbuckles put together just need to remove the stock measure then adjust

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Rear adjustable arms installed measured everything is stock right now guess something I will play with some to see how it changes things. Next to the servo saver spring, note anyone who does this atleast on the Spark will need to trim some of the threads from them on each side to get proper lengths heres the ends I cut off to give you a idea hope it helps

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All I can is amazing how much different the Spark tracks handles now much less even though it’s been 80f and above here no thermal cut off motor feels pretty cool considering. The servo saver spring upgrade I could tell the difference soon as I started driving her, I adjusted the caster a touch in the rear of course blue lock tight on everything now ( tired of screws backing out ) just waiting on the ADU shock supports at this point and again BadLands really feel great for my drive style. Only thing I still want to do is replace the XT90 with a EC5 connector then install the wide body hubs that will arrive today or tomorrow . Have a new body in the box for club days and the original for play days. Such an amazing buggy. Once wide stance goes on I’ll update how I like it not that stock is bad at all but I will be racing this also

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