I ended up buying Tynamite set for RC hardened steel with a ratchet style driver that I’m not overly crazy about but the drivers so far so good. Also comes with thin walled nut drivers
Wera hex plus are my go-to drivers they are awesome especially for m2.5 and m2. The modified hex profile really helps keep the socket from rounding out. They aren't too expensive either
I have bought MIP and the Wera 354 drivers. I bought the Wera 354 set as my ‘take with my during bashing’ set, but was impressed with the quality. Only thing is the grip is a bit smaller than MIP, so for bigger hands the MIP has a better grip.
Good call on the thread pitch, would have to measure that first. I do feel like I have enough threads sticking out on mine to fit a lock nut on there though, but I don't really have problems because I use 4s. I don't understand why aluminium wheel nuts is the standard. The weight reduction doesn't feel worth it here for bashers. You could get galvanic corrosion though if the wheel hex is left aluminium, and changing that to steel might have a bigger impact on weight. So maybe that's why. I don't know if there are compatible steels and aluminiums that could be used here.
You could literally just take a standard M10 steel bolt chuck it on a lathe and drill a 8mm hole down the center then another 3mm hole for the pin crosswise though the head as well as an M4 tapped hole for a setscrew (I hate how wheel hexes wobble slightly and a setscrew would fix that) and you have a steel wheel hex. It's so easy to manufacture I'm surprised that nobody has.
I have 14-17 coming should be here I hope tomorrow so maybe a 14-15 would be better
I have some ideas kinda ugly weather here today I’ll look at some things and see what I can do
Compare how the hex socket holds up compared to a known 12.9 brand like YFS if the wear is similar it's ok. The difference between wear on a 10.9 and 12.9 is pretty obvious. Almost all commodity screws are now made in either China or Taiwan.
Turns out they are HUA branded screws the M4 cap heads that came with my order have "HUA" stamped on the head. I have seen these in some helicopter kits. In one bag of M4s the stamping is a little less clear but that is normal because the text details in the dies wear out faster than the rest of the die with 12.9 screws some batches of YFS screws are also like this. The black finish on these screws is really nice it may be black nickel rather than black oxide (it's glossy not matte)
How about a chassis skin?
The modifying bug can bite hard
. Sounds like you upgraded everything that really needs to be upgraded, and are at the stage where probably just need to add your own personal touches to it. Corally, adu & gpm all do servo saver in 7075 if feel the need to upgrade it, there’s Also 7075 centre diff bulkhead can get if you want to add it, diff cases can also be upgraded 7075. Some people add chassis skids or skins to protect chassis, could also upgrade chassis to 7075 if modifying bug keeps biting but these upgrades aren’t necessary more want than need but I’ve still added them all to my buggy . Other things I’ve done to mine are add front wing(racecraft USA) changed rear wing (tworks) & fitted tworks titanium centre driveshafts. And as mayako been on topic I recently saw someone use mx8 rear wing mount on corally direct fit & cheaper. But just enjoy it & modify or upgrade it as needed or as and when you like.Register and gain access to Discussions, Reviews, Tech Tips, How to Articles, and much more - on the best Corally RC community for RC enthusiasts that covers all aspects of the Corally-RC brand!
Register Today It's free! This box will disappear once registered!