Spark Spark XB6 Aluminum upgrades

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shortround9191

shortround9191

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Ok guys seeing a bunch of these all over the place, what’s everyone’s thoughts on adding them

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Don't think they are needed the stock plastic ones on my kagama 6s have taken a beating and keep on going plus showing little sign of wear after 6 months of having it.
 
Partydaz said:
Don't think they are needed the stock plastic ones on my kagama 6s have taken a beating and keep on going plus showing little sign of wear after 6 months of having it.
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Cool I was thinking if I do going green to match the truck but if it isn’t needed I’ll hold off till I finish up other upgrades.
 
shortround9191 said:
Cool I was thinking if I do going green to match the truck but if it isn’t needed I’ll hold off till I finish up other upgrades.
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Not really needed like partydaz said, some people have questioned whether adu true 7075 aluminium, gpm also do some in various colours but listed as sketer hubs (probably similar quality to adu but gpm do look little more fragile design) . If getting anything from adu to upgrade your spark I would get there chassis brace & battery tray.

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I saw the brace thought that would be a good upgrade also, I usually like to upgrade something I like to beast mode as I’ve done on so many jets. The Spark is amazing to me so why not pimp her out some
 
Just ordered a few T7075 upgrades, the steering rack Swiss Made TC, brace from ADU then a few odds and ends. Found a control arm pin slightly bent I straighten for $7 why not get a few spares then a set of 17mm wheel serated nuts along with the enclosed anodized green to match the body. Post some pics once I get everything installed
 
My understanding is that 7075 can only be anodized black or clear not colors.

EDIT: The ADU parts are kinda heavy, just like 7075 Aluminum helicopter blade grips. 6061 has a different feel in the hand because it's a bit lighter for it's volume. I am impressed with the machining (bearing seats are zero slop slip fit with just a slight bit of friction and all 4 seats on the two steering blocks are identical in this regard) and I like that the parts have a blasted matt finish. The only possible complaint is a tiny slight cosmetic surface blemish in one spot in the blast finish but that's just nitpicking.

I would LOVE to see these guys make a 700 class heli kit but that's probably a lot less profitable and financially safe than third party car hopups.
 
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The wheel nuts I’m mistaken there just aluminum thought covering from dust debris would be good while adding some bling
 
shortround9191 said:
The wheel nuts I’m mistaken there just aluminum thought covering from dust debris would be good while adding some bling
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That reminds me. The stock wheel nuts are not serrated (TC started using serrated wheel nuts with the introduction of the Kagama 4.
Ordering a set if serrated wheel nuts from either TC or Ali/Amazon is recommended. The non-serrated on s have a tendency to come loose during driving, oftenresukting in stripped wheel hexes.
 
Yip on 6s the the non serrated wheel nuts love to fly off, happened to me few times :ROFLMAO: . Got some arrma serrated nuts and they lock on brilliantly with a satisfying crunch when you tighten them down on the wheels :D
 
Partydaz said:
Yip on 6s the the non serrated wheel nuts love to fly off, happened to me few times :ROFLMAO: . Got some arrma serrated nuts and they lock on brilliantly with a satisfying crunch when you tighten them down on the wheels :D
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Yea first thing that happened to mine first run at that, scooting across the field when I see a tire running away from the buggy 😂. Kinda surprising the Kagama comes with serated but the Spark doesn’t. Ended up stealing one from the Kagama also ordered a stock set from TC USA along with mod1 pitch 14-18 tooth pinions. A early mistake I’ve already made buying 32pitch and they won’t work on the Kagama or Spark. Weird I search Spark or Kagama pinion on TC web site and they show 32 pitch. I am kinda digging the Syncro 2wd rear wheels wondering how they would do on the Spark being wider
 
Well I have the rear differential output cups in but the input diff cup is Holly crap super lock tighted in. Gonna head to the tool store and Hobby Shop want to pick up some better Allen head screws the tiny ones love to strip out been replacing with the better steel and larger head where I can. These upgrades of course for the Kagama4

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shortround9191 said:
Well I have the rear differential output cups in but the input diff cup is Holly crap super lock tighted in. Gonna head to the tool store and Hobby Shop want to pick up some better Allen head screws the tiny ones love to strip out been replacing with the better steel and larger head where I can. These upgrades of course for the Kagama4
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Check out Monster Bolts and AFH Fasteners on Ebay they have good prices on metric grade 12.9 hardware including button heads. Mostly they carry YFS brand screws made in Taiwan. Most button heads provided with kits are the "medium high strength" grade 10.9. Also check out Wera hex plus drivers they have a modified hex profile that spreads out the contact area rather than only in the corners.

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Sandracer_NL said:
That reminds me. The stock wheel nuts are not serrated (TC started using serrated wheel nuts with the introduction of the Kagama 4.
Ordering a set if serrated wheel nuts from either TC or Ali/Amazon is recommended. The non-serrated on s have a tendency to come loose during driving, oftenresukting in stripped wheel hexes.
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Team Accociated makes 17mm nylock wheel nuts, but they are kinda expensive. Totally solves the problem though and removes the risk of over tightening your wheel hex threads. EDIT looks like they don't make them anymore they are out of stock everwhere including their own website and they few you can find are on ebay at inflated prices.
 
I’ve been replacing a ton of screws as I’ve been taken the trucks apart where I can with a bigger Allen head type. May sound crazy but I’m using from a twin 80mm F14 screw kit it also has the set screws with blue lock tight already applied for like the pinion etc. I’m horrible I guess planes are the same way screw heads get buggered up all the time so I always buy replacement packs to keep on hand. Has anyone looked into grade 8 steel screw sets or would that make other areas more susceptible to breakage

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I’ve replaced some screws but no idea what grade they are. Good set of hex drivers help, can save you a lot headaches with stripped/rounded out screws. MIP tools are the go too for most people but not the cheapest but you’ll not need to buy another set unlike cheaper ones which round out. Buy once cry once

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Niekname said:
https://www.mcmaster.com/product/93625A120

Not everything has to come from RC brands. If you search "M10 lock nut" in most shops with a big hardware assortment you can find them.
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I thought of that but there are two standards for metric threads on large bolts "fine" and coarse and coarse is the standard while fine is "special use". I'm fairly certain wheel hexes are using the "fine" thread, commodity m10 nylock nuts may not fit. Even if they do I don't think there would be enough thread sticking out the tire to engage with the nylon locking ring. Remember that wheel nuts are low profile. On the other hand if they do fit then you could use a steel jam nut (which are half the height of a standard nut and about the same as a wheel nut) which would hold up to using threadlock better than an aluminum nut i.e. it' won't deform or round off when you go to remove it. Just be sure to not over tighten it.
 
shortround9191 said:
Has anyone looked into grade 8 steel screw sets or would that make other areas more susceptible to breakage
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Metric doesn't use the same standard for fastener strength as imperial. 8.8 is the weakest alloy screw followed by 10.9 and 12.9 is the strongest. So what you want are metric 12.9 because "grade 8.8" metric is the weakest before you go down into mild steel screws. Metric doesn't even use the term "grade" technically they are called "Metric x.x e.g. Metric 12.9) though people still use the "grade" term anyway.

imo 12.9 screws are worth using just for the fact that the heads resist rounding out better, especially button heads and setscrews. I do wish they would use m3 caps screws instead of button heads though. I REALLY hate button head screws for the undersize drivers.

 
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