Kronos XTR Shock shaft bending
- Thread starter Caleb90
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Horatio
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Have you checked your droop?
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- #3
Yes. I have broke a few shock pistons on the kronos. But they were in the rear, i have since adjusted the droop. The sketer, i have to compress the rear shocks a tad to mount. The fronts (bc they are the same as the rear) are compressed about 1/4 there usable shock travle when mounted
winterlong75
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Yep...when my father in law ran my Kronos XTR into a fence post at a pretty good speed! Other than that, no shock shaft issues on the Kronos or Skeeter for me.
Horatio
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If your droop is good, bending shafts could occur from too light a spring rate or sometimes too thick/heavy an oil.
It might be worth checking the actual shock bodies - if they get dinked, sometimes the pistons can jam up midway through the stroke.
Other than that - not sure why they should be bending. I run on very bumpy grass with a natural mound/jump that gets about 6 foot of height - never an issue. So my running is far from extreme.
When I'm not doing that, I run on a mile long speed run strip which is not really testing the suspension.
XTR during 0-60mph runs
Jeffwazz
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For me it's been rear shock pistons. At the very top (fully extended) bit of travel, the piston seems to bind a little.
I've wound the droop screws in to get less extension, but I'm thinking of adding a couple of o-rings under the piston as a bump stop and hopefully totally stop the binding up.
I've wound the droop screws in to get less extension, but I'm thinking of adding a couple of o-rings under the piston as a bump stop and hopefully totally stop the binding up.
Horatio
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I know a lot of people upgrade the shocks to Arrma ones. So far for me, I like the threaded shocks that came with the XTR.
I use the Avid Racing titanium droop screws which are button headed and softer than steel, thus kinder on the chassis droop lugs.
As the standard grub screws gouge away at the chassis, this can increase the droop over time.
Inserting silicone tube under the pistons was how we used to limit droop on 1/10th buggies of yesteryear.
If shocks aren't bled properly/have too much oil in them, this can jam them up pretty good too.
I use the Avid Racing titanium droop screws which are button headed and softer than steel, thus kinder on the chassis droop lugs.
As the standard grub screws gouge away at the chassis, this can increase the droop over time.
Inserting silicone tube under the pistons was how we used to limit droop on 1/10th buggies of yesteryear.
If shocks aren't bled properly/have too much oil in them, this can jam them up pretty good too.
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- #9
Never broke a shock end. I have only broken a couple tie rod ends
Every thing is bled properly and there isnt any binding.just seems odd that both my corally rigs have bent front shock shafts
I don't know what to say.. TC is your kryptonite!! Dang, that's some bad luck you got with TC stuff. I've definitely heard of folks swapping in Arrma 6s shocks. Kraton 6s should be the closest fit I would guess? Jenny's rc or perhaps another kit breaker on ebay..
I have broken some tie rods, camber links and the steering rack. Oh and steering arm. But for nearly 2 years, not bad. I run on a track mostly with my kronos though. When I start jumping is when I break my TC stuff.
So, with that said, my Arrma's get the "rough" treatment as they seem better suited to it. Also the main reason my kronos runs 4s, kraton runs 6s..it just holds up better for me.
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- #11
I have no idea either. The most random stuff i have problems with.
I feel your pain.. out of curiosity, what are you running for tires? Was trying to think of why/how the shock shafts are bending.. if the tires are too tall, that can lead to shocks bottoming out before the chassis touches the ground. Which could lead to bent shafts, broken rod ends or even suspension arms.
Also one wheeled landings can easily lead to a bent shaft.. I'm just throwing ideas out here, IDK if any of these conditions apply. Maybe?
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- #13
Running the punisher wheels and tires. Same size as the kronos tires just a bit heavery and less balloonage. Yeah its been flipped and flopped and bad landings. But you would think i would have broke rod ends, arms before bending a shaft
Yes, I would think that too. I also agree, not likely the tires, at least not on the Kronos..
I believe the TC shock shafts are a tad thinner than Arrma's, like .5 or 1mm thinner.. shouldn't be that big a deal though..
razorrc
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What shock oils are you running, and how far is the shock compressed when you screw on the shock cap?
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- #16
60wt oil. I screw the shock cap on with the shock full extended. Then i crack the cap loose, then slowly compress the shock to bleed it. Close cap, check for full range of motion binding and leaks
Jeffwazz
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Are the shock caps and mounts still straight? Perhaps if they're not fully in line with the axis of shock travel, it could potentially cause it to kink over and jam up, with further compression causing it to bend. Perhaps?
Oh, and your shock bleeding method sounds fine
Oh, and your shock bleeding method sounds fine
Sounds about right then.. I do it a little differently so I don't create a mess with oil leaking out. I compress the empty shock to about 80% compression, fill the shock till about 2mm from the top of the shock body. Then thread on the cap. Sometimes I get overflow while threading the cap still though.
The bladder is there to help offset any overfilling I believe by creating an expansion zone between the bladder and cap. I could be wrong but makes sense to me.
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- #20
Well how do you do it? Im a "noob" i don't race and just play in my back yard. Just got back into this about 1.5 year ago. Last rc i had prior was a duratraxx overdrive back in 2002. Yes they get flopped and wrecked. But the common stuff does not break. Kronos is almost a year old on the stock arms, sketer is a few months old.