SHIROI Shiroi Roller

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Well damn... That ain't right

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Ok that's so strange, several components missing, not sure whether to buy just those bits or just get the whole shock .

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Cheaper get shocks from breakers. Think a set of shafts & just orings came near £20 when priced before complete set shocks spare springs where like £28 RCSpares
Yeah just had a look, definitely cheaper to buy the whole thing and have some spare parts left over 👍🏼👏🏼
 
What would you guys advice for hangin the Shiroi. I want to hang it on the wall for storing at home. Now I don't know if I should go buy 2 long hangers to hang it on that rear transport thing. Or mount two smaller hangers and hang it left and right on the suspension arms? As it's pretty heavy I don't want to put stress on the chassis somewhere not ideal hmm
Go to hardware store buy some hooks or hangers probably cheapest option something similar to this

I just found this on AliExpress: | RC Model Climbing Car Vehicle Off-Road Vehicle Closet Display Storage Rack Wall Hanger For 1/18 1/16 1/10 1/8 1/5 RC Car
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIRiK6k
 
What would you guys advice for hangin the Shiroi. I want to hang it on the wall for storing at home. Now I don't know if I should go buy 2 long hangers to hang it on that rear transport thing. Or mount two smaller hangers and hang it left and right on the suspension arms? As it's pretty heavy I don't want to put stress on the chassis somewhere not ideal hmm
I bought some hooks from my local hardware store. Every hook has 2 screwholes.
My hooks do have some rubber protection. No need for that I guess. 🤣
 
Not myself have Saw mixed reports on them I stick with agfrc but more expensive but buy cheap buy twice. I use the 32kg in my buggy red version but agfrc have sale & same servo in blue Chinese themed case nearly tenner cheaper.

I just found this on AliExpress: | Special Offer AGFRC A73CHLW 32KG Digital Coreless High Torque 1/10 HV Programmable Waterproof Servo For 1/10 RC Car Crawler Boat
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHwAGBQ

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Fun fact, AFRC servos are actually made by AGFRC. The internals are absolutely identical right down to the silkscreened serial numbers and logo on the logic board, the raised logo on the internal plastic bits and the application of kapton tape and black silicone glue.
 
Agfrc make servos for many companies not just there own perfect pass , reefs lots big name brands. Afrc probably under agfrc umbrella but I’ll stick too the original
 
Agfrc make servos for many companies not just there own perfect pass , reefs lots big name brands. Afrc probably under agfrc umbrella but I’ll stick too the original
I suspect that is the case a lot of their stuff appears to be relabeled AGFRC stuff like their gyros.
 
Fun fact, AFRC servos are actually made by AGFRC. The internals are absolutely identical right down to the silkscreened serial numbers and logo on the logic board, the raised logo on the internal plastic bits and the application of kapton tape and black silicone glue.
Good to know 🙏🏼
 
You can find the AGF-RC A73BHLW for arouind 65 bucks in many shops
 
Never did that but apparently .. " a lot "

Here is what you can "program" or adjust on this specific servo:

1. Motion and Range Parameters​

  • Servo Angle: You can set the maximum travel range (typically adjustable up to 180 degrees).
  • Servo Neutral: Adjust the exact center point. This is useful for perfectly aligning a steering link without using transmitter sub-trim, which preserves full throw in both directions.
  • Inversion: Toggle between normal and reverse rotation.

2. Performance and Feel​

  • PWM Power: Adjust the output power level. Higher power increases torque and speed but also increases heat and battery consumption.
  • Damping Factor: Controls how the servo stops. High damping prevents "overshooting" or wagging at the end of a fast movement, which is critical for heavy RC crawlers or large planes.
  • Sensitivity (Deadband): Defines how small a signal change must be before the servo reacts. A tighter deadband makes the servo more precise but can cause it to "buzz" as it constantly hunts for center.
  • Soft Start: Sets how the servo behaves when first powered on. It can be programmed to move slowly to its current position rather than snapping instantly, preventing damage to delicate linkages.

3. Protocol and Specialized Modes​

  • Narrow Band / Tail Servo Mode: You can switch the servo into "Narrow Band" (e.g., 760μs) to use it as a high-speed tail servo for helicopters.
  • SANWA SSR Mode: Enables compatibility with Sanwa’s Super Response protocol for ultra-low latency steering.
  • Winch Firmware: Some AGFRC smart servos allow you to flash entirely different firmware to convert the servo into a continuous rotation winch (though you should verify firmware compatibility for the A73BHLW specifically before attempting this).

4. Protection and Safety​

  • Lost PPM Protect: Determines what the servo does if it loses signal (e.g., hold position, go to a preset failsafe position, or release all tension).
  • Overload Protection: You can set the threshold for "Stall Protection." If the servo is jammed, it will automatically reduce power after a set time to prevent the motor from burning out.
 
Just to get the thread back on topic 🤣, my shocks rocked up, I thought I was buying one not a pair. So I am pretty happy about that. I'll just put both of these in the front they are pre-filled with 600. Also a cheap as chips unused as new receiver turned up all courtesy of RcSpares.

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Well lucky I did get a pair of shocks because one of them from my front end is benter than a nine bob note, hopefully I can rebuild the one with the missing piston with parts from this one giving me another spare, such fun this hobby is 😬🫨

Oh just out of interest is the bent shaft likely to have compromised the cylinder?

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It is more likely that it damaged the bottom cap. That will almost certainly leak from now.

Cheers, I figured somewhere else must've had to "give"

Just finished putting all the shocks together, I must say the Shiroi shocks, even the new ones don't seem to like to seal as easily as the kagama4 shocks. The kag4 shocks just nip the cap up and your done, whereas these had a lot of weeping.

Are the bladders on the Spark/Shiroi a weak point?
 
Cheers, I figured somewhere else must've had to "give"

Just finished putting all the shocks together, I must say the Shiroi shocks, even the new ones don't seem to like to seal as easily as the kagama4 shocks. The kag4 shocks just nip the cap up and your done, whereas these had a lot of weeping.

Are the bladders on the Spark/Shiroi a weak point?
Yes they are.
There's a thread somewhere about people using Arrma and other 3rd party bladders.
I am using Arrma 6s shocks on most of my TC cars myself.
 
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