Kronos XTR Kronos XTR... Impressive!

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Jeo79

Jeo79

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Finally started putting together my 2022 Kronos XTR which I purchased back in Feb.

I've had several Arrma 6s cars but got tired of their diff issues and overpriced parts so swapped to a Hobao SSTE which is my favorite truggy in terms of durability, performance, and cost. Then I found out about Corally so thought i'd give them a go. Tried the Shogun but realised it would cost loads of money to get all the right parts to toughen it up and bash proof it. So sold the Shogun and went for the Kronos XTR.

I gotta say build quality, I'm impressed. Diffs are solid, smooth and chunky look like they can take a beating, the arms, braces, driveshafts, chassis, steering components all look solid.

The only let down was the screws which I've managed to strip the heads of so will change them all out for better for screws with better heads.

Hoping to test drive tomorrow still deciding between stock or finisher body.

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Jeo79 said:
Finally started putting together my 2022 Kronos XTR which I purchased back in Feb.

I've had several Arrma 6s cars but got tired of their diff issues and overpriced parts so swapped to a Hobao SSTE which is my favorite truggy in terms of durability, performance, and cost. Then I found out about Corally so thought i'd give them a go. Tried the Shogun but realised it would cost loads of money to get all the right parts to toughen it up and bash proof it. So sold the Shogun and went for the Kronos XTR.

I gotta say build quality, I'm impressed. Diffs are solid, smooth and chunky look like they can take a beating, the arms, braces, driveshafts, chassis, steering components all look solid.

The only let down was the screws which I've managed to strip the heads of so will change them all out for better for screws with better heads.

Hoping to test drive tomorrow still deciding between stock or finisher body.

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its a good car all I have done to mine is change the front and back turnbuckles for the plastic ones and put titanium shock stand offs on. the stock suspension mounts are not very good so replacing those with the swiss ones also the suspension mount pins snap quite easy so I use arrma 6s kraton ones
 
I have modded my Muraco to be more durable. I don't jump much, but I do like my vehicles to be able to do high jumps and survive without major breakage if I want them to. A TC 7075 chassis might be in my future, but it's not a requirement right now.

TC 7075 5mm front shock tower
TC 7075 5mm rear shock tower
TC 7075 front chassis brace
TC 7075 rear chassis brace
TC Xtreme Chassis Brace kit
TC 7075 center diff support
Aluminum center diff motor mount insert from Erik van Ravenstein
Corally heavy shock springs
Corally heavy duty steering blocks
Corally rear CVDs
TRB RC ceramic hybrid wheel bearings
 
Hey, a Team Corally and Jamiroquai fan!
I've been a fan of Jamiroquai since I was 16 and a fan of Team Corally since 2 years.

I like the Finisher body too.
 
Jeo79 said:
The only let down was the screws which I've managed to strip the heads of so will change them all out for better for screws with better heads.
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I haven't had this issue with my XTR. You probably know this already, but could it be that your tools are a bit worn or that they're low quality hex drivers?
 
DaniC said:
I haven't had this issue with my XTR. You probably know this already, but could it be that your tools are a bit worn or that they're low quality hex drivers?
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Now strangely enough, the pan head screws are 2 different qualities on my Punisher. The good ones are stamped with a 12.9 ident, and there's a handful of plain heads, and these are much softer and easy to strip.
Most of these have been replaced (with the extras from the brace kit), and I'll get to the others when I need to.
 
Jeffwazz said:
Now strangely enough, the pan head screws are 2 different qualities on my Punisher. The good ones are stamped with a 12.9 ident, and there's a handful of plain heads, and these are much softer and easy to strip.
Most of these have been replaced (with the extras from the brace kit), and I'll get to the others when I need to.
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Interesting! I'll have to pay more attention to my XTR the next time I'm going over it to see if there's a mix like in your case.
 
The Stig said:
Had that in the shock screw in the lower front arm of my Asuga. Replaced it. Manual says m3x16. I measured it and the total is 24mm. I think the manual is wrong 🤔 i put a m3x20 in. Hope it holds
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It's the length of the threaded shaft, so that's probably an M3x22.
As long as the 20 has enough thread engagement, it'll be fine.

Oh, and the Punisher manual has the wrong screw lengths in a few places where the threads don't quite reach the nyloc bit of the nuts. Just swapped for ones I considered to be correct.
 
Jeffwazz said:
It's the length of the threaded shaft, so that's probably an M3x22.
As long as the 20 has enough thread engagement, it'll be fine.

Oh, and the Punisher manual has the wrong screw lengths in a few places where the threads don't quite reach the nyloc bit of the nuts. Just swapped for ones I considered to be correct.
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Seems like a common thing on the Corally manuals
 
I buy screws from hardware suppliers generally. The small metric screws and nuts typically come in bags of 50 to 100..much cheaper that way.
I bought a bunch of different sizes from Graingers. I get a a discount plus free shipping through my employer's account. Helps my cause. Some of these that were advertised as 12.9 are actually ungraded sadly, they strip quite easily too.. I always err on longer than needed if the correct length isn't in my assortment. Sometimes cutting them off if needed.
Also, I try to replace button head screws with cylindrical head whenever I take something apart. More engagement of the hex wrench, and typically the next sized hex up vs button heads of same diameter.

Jeo79 said:
Finally started putting together my 2022 Kronos XTR which I purchased back in Feb.

I've had several Arrma 6s cars but got tired of their diff issues and overpriced parts so swapped to a Hobao SSTE which is my favorite truggy in terms of durability, performance, and cost. Then I found out about Corally so thought i'd give them a go. Tried the Shogun but realised it would cost loads of money to get all the right parts to toughen it up and bash proof it. So sold the Shogun and went for the Kronos XTR.

I gotta say build quality, I'm impressed. Diffs are solid, smooth and chunky look like they can take a beating, the arms, braces, driveshafts, chassis, steering components all look solid.

The only let down was the screws which I've managed to strip the heads of so will change them all out for better for screws with better heads.

Hoping to test drive tomorrow still deciding between stock or finisher body.

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+1 vote for the Punisher body here. Both look good though.👍
IDK how you bash, but I strongly recommend using the body brace that mounts to the top of the center diff. Really makes a big difference in how long a body lasts if you tumble alot, which my rc's do, LOL.
Good feedback on the Hobao too. I've been admiring them for quite some time but never pulled the trigger on one.. I really like the SC8e.. one day!!
I have a few Arrma's, EXB'S, no diff issues for me. TC diffs have been solid as well. Really comes down to use I think.. I run stock power in everything, along with stock or smaller tires typically too.
Enjoy!!😎🍻
 
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The Stig said:
True, figured that out also. Still, manual is not correct 😉
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But having a healthy assortment of hardware negate's that problem.👍🍻
I have alot of different makes, different scales, ect.. aside from the old school Losi and Associated, they all use metric hardware and I've never found myself with too many screws and nuts for them.🤣🤣
 
Thanks for the tips and advice. 1 week in and 3 seripus bash sessions and I must say I still love this car. Its drive and handling are really refined for a car priced cheaper then Arrma/Traxxas.

Unfortunately I have had some breakages

- Front of battery tray snapped off
- Right back shock end broke twice and ended up bending the rear dog bone so temporarily running kraton rears
- Rear input gears stripped (I don't land on power) no idea how it happened

Even with those few things I'm really happy with the car. I notice my 2050kv motor with fans gets warm on 6s and 13t so will drop to a 12t

Xjeepguy said:
I haven’t really bashed it very hard due to the weather, but I’ve launched it pretty hard on a high traction surface and nothing has shown any signs of breaking.
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I've had a few but I'm wanting to test how strong it is. Its definitely a high flyer
Spoon said:
Hey, a Team Corally and Jamiroquai fan!
I've been a fan of Jamiroquai since I was 16 and a fan of Team Corally since 2 years.

I like the Finisher body too.
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We both obviously have great taste 😆👍

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Jeo79 said:
Thanks for the tips and advice. 1 week in and 3 seripus bash sessions and I must say I still love this car. Its drive and handling are really refined for a car priced cheaper then Arrma/Traxxas.

Unfortunately I have had some breakages

- Front of battery tray snapped off
- Right back shock end broke twice and ended up bending the rear dog bone so temporarily running kraton rears
- Rear input gears stripped (I don't land on power) no idea how it happened

Even with those few things I'm really happy with the car. I notice my 2050kv motor with fans gets warm on 6s and 13t so will drop to a 12t



I've had a few but I'm wanting to test how strong it is. Its definitely a high flyer

We both obviously have great taste 😆👍

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When you are bashing you are listening to Jamiroquai with "traveling without moving " or "space cowboy " when you send your Kronos to the moon?
 
Spoon said:
When you are bashing you are listening to Jamiroquai with "traveling without moving " or "space cowboy " when you send your Kronos to the moon?
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🤣 with all my breakages more like "emergency on planet earth" 🤣🤣

morrjr71 said:
I have modded my Muraco to be more durable. I don't jump much, but I do like my vehicles to be able to do high jumps and survive without major breakage if I want them to. A TC 7075 chassis might be in my future, but it's not a requirement right now.

TC 7075 5mm front shock tower
TC 7075 5mm rear shock tower
TC 7075 front chassis brace
TC 7075 rear chassis brace
TC Xtreme Chassis Brace kit
TC 7075 center diff support
Aluminum center diff motor mount insert from Erik van Ravenstein
Corally heavy shock springs
Corally heavy duty steering blocks
Corally rear CVDs
TRB RC ceramic hybrid wheel bearings
Click to expand...

I actually bought a Shogun but then sold it and bought the XTR as it had all the upgraded bits on it. May get a clear Shogun or Muraco shell one day to stick on the XTR. Have you had any diff issues
 
No diff issues on the Punisher (yet), but I did see a YouTuber (Claire's RC?) Saying about the diff input gear and shaft bearing sliding in the gearbox housing causing mesh issues.
I'll see if I can find it to link....
Diffs and gears seen to be pretty bombproof to be honest🤷

I've managed to break 1 standard shock end, 1 shock shaft, and 2 shock pistons, all on the same rear shock!
Dunno why, but poor landings on unforgiving terrain might be a reason😁
 
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