Kronos XTR 2022 build by Starfox2005

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Starfox2005 said:
Id like to try and keep the total cost under $130 ish right now I've got around $55 to spend and $20 in JRC gift cards. Really I just want to try and get it running rather soon but money's gonna be what slows down that process. Really got to be able to afford it and justify the cost of the electronics. @KnowAir
I'll have to see if I can sell off something to make some dough.
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This is cutting it really close to $130 and you have to select the correct shipping option for the esc to get free shipping eta of May 20th on my end.

Esc
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0VMrWm

Motor get the 2200kv
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNBfX30

$129.12 before tax on my end.
 
KnowAir said:
Good stuff right there Slick👍
I paid about that for a blx system from JRC a year and a half ago. So, considering inflation and all, that's damn good!
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Yup I remember seeing the BLX combos on eBay for about $120 shipped at one point in time.

I would check the bearings though, those Chinese motors sometimes don't come with the best bearings. I've had 1 out of the 7 Chinese motors I've purchased that had bad bearings in it.
 
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slick2500 said:
This is cutting it really close to $130 and you have to select the correct shipping option for the esc to get free shipping eta of May 20th on my end.

Esc
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0VMrWm

Motor get the 2200kv
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNBfX30

$129.12 before tax on my end.
Click to expand...
Thanks for looking out for me @slick2500 I really appreciate it but I don't currently have that much money to spend on electronics right now. I also might be able to get my old motor running again with new bearings. It's the V1 Arrma 6s motor.

Please take a read if you have a chance... Thanks guys.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/having-electronics-issues-and-need-advice.51314/
 
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Amazing stuff!
@Hammer Down thank you!
I just received today a ESC for this build it's a Arrma BLX 185 ESC and a huge thanks to Hammer for his generosity!!

IMG_20220509_184836866.jpg
 
Getting ready to empty my wallet.... Lol gonna go with a 35kg servo on this one instead of a 25kg like what I have in my Kraton 6s. I'll update the thread with a list of parts when I order them!
 
Starfox2005 said:
Getting ready to empty my wallet.... Lol gonna go with a 35kg servo on this one instead of a 25kg like what I have in my Kraton 6s. I'll update the thread with a list of parts when I order them!
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Good call, I have been running 25kg in pretty much everything I have. They work, but are barely adequate for a 1/8 basher with 6 inch or taller tires. Another important thing to consider is whether or not the claimed torque is actually being achieved, most people use the bec power from the esc wich is typically 6-7.2 volts. Not the 8.4 volt torque rating the servo manufacturers love to plaster all over the servo and advertising.
Sounds like you're aware of that, I am just putting it out for people that don't know..
Look forward to seeing your rig😎
 
KnowAir said:
Good call, I have been running 25kg in pretty much everything I have. They work, but are barely adequate for a 1/8 basher with 6 inch or taller tires. Another important thing to consider is whether or not the claimed torque is actually being achieved, most people use the bec power from the esc wich is typically 6-7.2 volts. Not the 8.4 volt torque rating the servo manufacturers love to plaster all over the servo and advertising.
Sounds like you're aware of that, I am just putting it out for people that don't know..
Look forward to seeing your rig😎
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Yeah I can't wait to build it up! And yeah I'm gonna be running it on the BEC of 6 volts and it's supposed to make 29kg on 5 volts and 35kg on 7.4 volts of stall torque. That's still a big improvement over 25kg thanks for the good reminder! @KnowAir
 
Here's the electronics I'm going to be using in my Team Corally Kronos XTR 22! Can't wait to get it installed and running!
IMG_20220610_172224981.jpg
IMG_20220610_163147478.jpg

35kg servo, BLX185, Spektrum 2050kv motor with Arrma heatsink and fan.
Flysky FS-GH3E receiver and Arrma ATX100 transmitter. Big thanks to Corally forum and Arrma forum!
 
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Not impressed with Corally's toughness... I guess it's cause they are new to this? But my Arrma Kraton V1 could have easily walked away from this light impact tumble....
IMG_20220702_124019077.jpg
IMG_20220702_124025695.jpg
IMG_20220704_170351884.jpg
IMG_20220704_170403336.jpg
 
Starfox2005 said:
Not impressed with Corally's toughness... I guess it's cause they are new to this? But my Arrma Kraton V1 could have easily walked away from this light impact tumble....View attachment 2653View attachment 2652View attachment 2651View attachment 2650
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That looks like a defective turnbuckle: metal normally wouldn't break before the plastic rod end.

I have an Arrma Kraton and a Corally Radix8. In my opinion, the Corally vehicles aren't as strong as the Arrma vehicles, but they are faster and more controllable. If you do an internet search for comparisons between Arrma and Corally, I think you will find that most reviewers think the same.
 
Starfox2005 said:
Not impressed with Corally's toughness... I guess it's cause they are new to this? But my Arrma Kraton V1 could have easily walked away from this light impact tumble....View attachment 2653View attachment 2652View attachment 2651View attachment 2650
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Their turnbuckles are definitely questionable, I agree with you there. Nice repair job though! Weld 'er up👌
I've heard of folks actually switching out to the plastic rtr turnbuckles and steer links and having less breakage. I'm curious about that. I mean how often do we really change toe or camber on a basher anyway?
Another possibility is finding a different brand such as Arrma links, or Tekno ect..
I too am surprised that the metal gave up before the plastic actually. I haven't broken a camber link, but have broken plastic tie rod end and the metal tie rod link on separate occasions.
 
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KnowAir said:
Their turnbuckles are definitely questionable, I agree with you there. Nice repair job though! Weld 'er up👌
I've heard of folks actually switching out to the plastic rtr turnbuckles and steer links and having less breakage. I'm curious about that. I mean how often do we really change toe or camber on a basher anyway?
Another possibility is finding a different brand such as Arrma links, or Tekno ect..
I too am surprised that the metal gave up before the plastic actually. I haven't broken a camber link, but have broken plastic tie rod end and the metal tie rod link on separate occasions.
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I'm definitely not impressed with their turnbuckles, I've sheared several in pretty much the exact same spot as pictured, never broken a steering on, just bent those, but the camber ones are brittle, I swapped the plastic ones off my radix onto my xtr because the radix only sees street use so don't break on it, and before anyone questions that interchange my radix is sporting kronos arms, and although I can't confirm strength I've haven't broken a plastic one yet for whatever that's worth
 
It's quite frustrating that all the Corally turnbuckle ends seem really weak and brittle 😩 but, I think with them breaking it has saved my cars from much worse damage..!!

Someone posted once "you should upgrade to Arrma turnbuckles etc" but if I did that, in my opinion I should have just bought an Arrma in the first place. Maybe I'm crazy 😉🤪🤪 but I like my cars factory stock in certain areas..

Must admit though, I am pretty sick of changing steering turnbuckle ends 🤣🤣 if they keep braking I'm going to experiment with Tekno ends.!!
 
BashingBrian said:
It's quite frustrating that all the Corally turnbuckle ends seem really weak and brittle 😩 but, I think with them breaking it has saved my cars from much worse damage..!!

Someone posted once "you should upgrade to Arrma turnbuckles etc" but if I did that, in my opinion I should have just bought an Arrma in the first place. Maybe I'm crazy 😉🤪🤪 but I like my cars factory stock in certain areas..

Must admit though, I am pretty sick of changing steering turnbuckle ends 🤣🤣 if they keep braking I'm going to experiment with Tekno ends.!!
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I finally got the swiss drive cups for my 21 xtr..2nd pack in,broken rod end on a steer link..😔 I have an HPI Vorza steer link on the opposite side already from the last break.
How'd you make out with Tekno links? The HPI link is holding, but developing slop at the pivot ball quicker than I'd like..
I understand about keeping things original, but not a desire for me in this case. Once I've broken the same part twice, I feel it's time for a different replacement..I'll likely end up using Arrma parts myself. They're just so readily available, it's an easy fix I think. Only brand easier to source for me would be TRX, I ain't contaminating my TC with that stuff!!😉
 
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