Syncro Corally Syncro 4

[shortround9191]

The mount that goes on your motor the fan connects to??

 

[Horatio]

I didn’t really abuse it, especially since it’s brand new, I don’t really abuse any of my RC’s I just drive them fairly hard.

I think crashing/bashing cars can always result in damage. Sometimes the damage seems worse than it 'should' because: physics. Other times: horrendous crash = no damage.

I think the plastic that Corally are using isn't up to the quality and toughness that Traxxas make their HD suspension arms out of.

Corally composite plastic choice on earlier Kronos was too rigid (resulting in more positive response at expense of durability in crash), but later rigs have more durable properties.

Traxass on the other hand are hardly a shining beacon of light when it comes to quality. Unless of course you define quality by how many ££$$ you spend on a rig made entirely of recycled milk crates.

Having said that, on X Maxx, the first thing bashers do with it is fix the entire drive line with M2C stuff and CNC gears, because the monkey metal Traxass use is crap. And that's me being kind. I could say more, but won't.

Quality = Xray, Sworkz, Tekno, Scorched Parts, M2C, Kyosho etc.

Personally I feel for what I spent on my XTR, the quality per £ spent was greater 100% better than Traxass.

 

[shortround9191]

I think crashing/bashing cars can always result in damage. Sometimes the damage seems worse than it 'should' because: physics. Other times: horrendous crash = no damage.


Corally composite plastic choice on earlier Kronos was too rigid (resulting in more positive response at expense of durability in crash), but later rigs have more durable properties.

Traxass on the other hand are hardly a shining beacon of light when it comes to quality. Unless of course you define quality by how many ££$$ you spend on a rig made entirely of recycled milk crates.

Having said that, on X Maxx, the first thing bashers do with it is fix the entire drive line with M2C stuff and CNC gears, because the monkey metal Traxass use is crap. And that's me being kind. I could say more, but won't.

Quality = Xray, Sworkz, Scorched Parts, M2C, Kyosho etc.

Personally I feel for what I spent on my XTR, the quality per £ spent was greater 100% better than Traxass.

I’ve been watching lots of videos mostly bashing, your correct Traxxas and another brand ( unless you buy the crazy expensive one has tons of diff issues ). I’ve seen so many talk about how well the TC cars are ( recent models ) even the standard Kagama 6s when compared to the Arrma. I actually watched one yesterday comparing them and to build the Kraton to the Kagama was a $300 difference. Yes tons more aftermarket for other brands hopefully more will come to TC sooner than later

 

[Horatio]

I’ve been watching lots of videos mostly bashing, your correct Traxxas and another brand ( unless you buy the crazy expensive one has tons of diff issues ). I’ve seen so many talk about how well the TC cars are ( recent models ) even the standard Kagama 6s when compared to the Arrma. I actually watched one yesterday comparing them and to build the Kraton to the Kagama was a $300 difference. Yes tons more aftermarket for other brands hopefully more will come to TC sooner than later

I love the Kraton EXB as well.

Arrma are quite pricey compared to Corally. I generally prefer quality carbon/alloy over plastic stuff. Strategic use of composite plastic is OK. Too much gives me the ick though.

Surprising amount of aftermarket stuff for Corally now though. Look at the amount of Scorched Parts stuff on mine, and at the moment, I'm looking at more Scorched Parts - hubs - designed for the Kraton to bolt onto mine. Where there's a will.....

Traxass just isn't for me. Keeping positive - they are at least a gateway to other, proper RC cars. And yes - apparently I'm a total RC car snob.

 

[Klappars]

I think crashing/bashing cars can always result in damage. Sometimes the damage seems worse than it 'should' because: physics. Other times: horrendous crash = no damage.


Corally composite plastic choice on earlier Kronos was too rigid (resulting in more positive response at expense of durability in crash), but later rigs have more durable properties.

Traxass on the other hand are hardly a shining beacon of light when it comes to quality. Unless of course you define quality by how many ££$$ you spend on a rig made entirely of recycled milk crates.

Having said that, on X Maxx, the first thing bashers do with it is fix the entire drive line with M2C stuff and CNC gears, because the monkey metal Traxass use is crap. And that's me being kind. I could say more, but won't.

Quality = Xray, Sworkz, Scorched Parts, M2C, Kyosho etc.

Personally I feel for what I spent on my XTR, the quality per £ spent was greater 100% better than Traxass.

I don't fully agree with you on Traxxas. Many of the plastic parts they use are very durable, suspension arms and chassis' in particular are very strong on Traxxas cars, in general.
I haven't owned an X-Maxx, but if my experience with the 1/10 4x4 cars goes, the spur gear would probably be fine, if you made sure the gear mesh was locked in place securely. On the 4x4 models, the plastic spur gear strips because the motor mount design is a weakness and it allows the mesh to loosen, the problem here is not the spur gear itself.

I do agree that those brands mentioned provide actual quality, I own a Tekno EB48 2.0 which is fantastic and uses top notch materials throughout.

 

[Horatio]

I don't fully agree with you on Traxxas. Many of the plastic parts they use are very durable, suspension arms and chassis' in particular are very strong on Traxxas cars, in general.

And thankfully, you don't have to.

The shining 'quality' of the plastic components used on Traxass rigs is the lightness. And whilst I won't argue that plastic isn't durable - I don't expect to have to pay more for moulded stuff.

I haven't owned an X-Maxx, but if my experience with the 1/10 4x4 cars goes, the spur gear would probably be fine, if you made sure the gear mesh was locked in place securely.

The issues with Xmaxx and their stock drive train is the monkey metal input and crown gears.

Not sure how well nylon spur would hold up on 6S. I'm guessing - not that well

But hey - at least the plastic spur won't bend, right KT?

On the 4x4 models, the plastic spur gear strips because the motor mount design is a weakness and it allows the mesh to loosen, the problem here is not the spur gear itself.

No, I totally agree that the problem here isn't the spur gear - it's Traxass' DGAF MO in general.

I do agree that those brands mentioned provide actual quality, I own a Tekno EB48 2.0 which is fantastic and uses top notch materials throughout.

Yes - 100% agree that Tekno can be added to that list. If you can see/feel the quality difference of a Tekno in front of you, you'll begin to understand why I find Traxass' approach to any end user as a bit of a crafty slap to the face - by stealth.

Dig a little deeper and you'll quickly appreciate why I stated that Traxass' only redeeming feature is that they are a gateway to proper RC cars - like your Tekno.

Tekno, unlike Traxass, have spent years as an upgrade company with the mindset of endeavouring to make things better for the sport. Now they make their own, super competitive rigs - the fruit of their labour.

Traxass on the other hand - not so much.

Anyone who knows me on the forum will tell you that secretly, I love the idea of owning an XRT - but I simply won't give Traxass any of my coin out of principle.

I have no beef with people that like them or own them (on the contrary - I have lots of friends that own them), but in 2025, what with the interweb, I do wonder how long people can just continue to look the other way for.......

 

[Klappars]

Been the same on all so far start hearing a strange noise first time thought it was a fluke this time figured more to it and TC doesn’t have anything but stock gearing or lower in inventory

This sounds like the motor screws that go through the motor mount and into the motor front cap have come loose and allowed your gear mesh between the spur and pinion gears to come loose, which would damage the gears.

Those screws need to be really tight and have red thread lock so they are secure and can handle heat from the motor.

 

[shortround9191]

No offense to Traxass I’m just not interested, rather take say a TC roller install what I want and still be $500 or more ahead of a Traxass price tag. I thought RC jets were bad but damn $1100 and I need to replace parts for it to hold up I’m good. My $389 Kagama4 once the CV was fixed has been hard as nails I won’t go into the Spark which is everything and more than I expected even stock at $600 less

 

[Klappars]

Update on the Syncro.

Had a good run yesterday, but not without some damage!

Unfortunately hit a concrete edge when attempting to cross from the road onto the grass land, smacked the chassis right into the concrete as it was just the right height; it stopped the buggy dead, from about 40+ mph, so was a big impact!

Bent the chassis, ripped the threads on the front bulkhead and damaged the front left shock absorber, the seals fell out and oil splattered everywhere!

Aside from that, I fitted a high spec SRT BH9027 servo which transformed the handling and steering response. The steering is now super quick and it turns confidently every time, maintaining a tight turning circle. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[Nelson.81]

Update on the Syncro.

Had a good run yesterday, but not without some damage!

Unfortunately hit a concrete edge when attempting to cross from the road onto the grass land, smacked the chassis right into the concrete as it was just the right height; it stopped the buggy dead, from about 40+ mph, so was a big impact!

Bent the chassis, ripped the threads on the front bulkhead and damaged the front left shock absorber, the seals fell out and oil splattered everywhere!

Aside from that, I fitted a high spec SRT BH9027 servo which transformed the handling and steering response. The steering is now super quick and it turns confidently every time, maintaining a tight turning circle. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

I did similar with a new 7075 chassis I was lucky that I was able to hammer out the damage & still use the chassis.

 

[Nelson.81]

You know the way you can’t use bad words on this forum can we have traxxas added to that list of words

 

[AggyMi]

Update on the Syncro.

Had a good run yesterday, but not without some damage!

Unfortunately hit a concrete edge when attempting to cross from the road onto the grass land, smacked the chassis right into the concrete as it was just the right height; it stopped the buggy dead, from about 40+ mph, so was a big impact!

Bent the chassis, ripped the threads on the front bulkhead and damaged the front left shock absorber, the seals fell out and oil splattered everywhere!

Aside from that, I fitted a high spec SRT BH9027 servo which transformed the handling and steering response. The steering is now super quick and it turns confidently every time, maintaining a tight turning circle. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

Well I'm glad the servo survived

 

[shortround9191]

Man sorry to hear and see that, hopefully you can salvage a good amount

 

[Horatio]

You know the way you can’t use bad words on this forum can we have traxxas added to that list of words

Yes please!

 

[Atomic Skull]

Just got my new Syncro 4 recently.

1st run, broke a lower suspension arm, bent the steering rack bar and also bent both front driveshafts.

This is Corally's second chance with me, I owned an Asuga a bit ago which I really enjoyed driving, but it wasn't durable or reliable enough unfortunately.

Keen to hear others experiences on the Syncro and how well it holds up long term.

The asuga was too fragile for you? What were you doing crashing it into stumps? It's a buggy not a monster truck if you drive it like one it will break.

I clipped a curb with a front wheel at 20mph and the result was 100% my fault, it bent steel and 7075 aluminum it's unrealistic to expect it to not also split the upper arm. If anything I'd prefer that to more serious damage because that was easily fixed. if it had damaged the lower arm or the hinge pins disassembly and repair would have been much more painful. Going forward no more aluminum upgrade parts they're not worth it. EDIT: I suppose I should mention the power system in this thing though a 1/6 scale ESC and motor may have had something to do with it


That said the ADU Racing nylon "cowcatcher" bumper is really great and will help absorb impacts and save the suspension arms in frond end collisions.

 

[Klappars]

The asuga was too fragile for you? What were you doing crashing it into stumps? It's a buggy not a monster truck if you drive it like one it will break.

I clipped a curb with a front wheel at 20mph and the result was 100% my fault, it bent steel and 7075 aluminum it's unrealistic to expect it to not also split the upper arm. If anything I'd prefer that to more serious damage because that was easily fixed. if it had damaged the lower arm or the hinge pins disassembly and repair would have been much more painful. Going forward no more aluminum upgrade parts they're not worth it. EDIT: I suppose I should mention the power system in this thing though a 1/6 scale ESC and motor may have had something to do with it


That said the ADU Racing nylon "cowcatcher" bumper is really great and will help absorb impacts and save the suspension arms in frond end collisions.

I wasn't doing anything crazy with my Asuga. Just general running around on grass, with a few sensible sized jumps. It's just that a few parts broke which I didn't expect and the front CVD issue really was frustrating as well as the fact that the stock wheels were poor quality and the hexes stripped out a lot, even with serrated wheel nuts and regular checking of the wheel nuts.

The final failure for me was the centre diff screws loosening, despite extremely thorough preparation of the screws and red thread lock being used, this destroyed the centre diff and the motor mount.

Considering I was always running the buggy on 4S, these issues were disappointing to me so I have up with the Asuga.

Another detail I'll mention is that I think they do need 6S in order to achieve the kind of speed/power would be ideal, I didn't want to invest in 6S batteries so didn't go down that route.

 

[shortround9191]

I can’t see the Spark being any better quality than the Asuga, my Spark has been pretty much bulletproof I slammed it into a steel post all on me. Only damage was a bent rim lower control arm and that was at a good 40-50mph, my grandkids have driven it smashed it you name it and still going strong. Sorry about you issue but the center diff I’ve had the same and just lock tighten them since never a issue

 

[Klappars]

I’m really enjoying the Syncro recently.

After the new chassis was fitted it’s been really durable and is great fun to drive.

I feel that it’s now living up to the claims and experiences of others.

Next up will be replacing all of the out-drives and driveshaft pins since they have worn quite a lot.

 

[swirlpoool]

Can upgrade it this one has a lot of spark parts fitted to it, adu hinge pin holders, shock towers & t2t brace, spark arms, side guards & bodyshell

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Are the front wheels meant to be pointing outwards at the front like that, mine looks similar, not sure if I've bent something or they are meant to look like this? All the plastic steering arms and suspension arms look okay but I know they are attached to a metal steering arm length thing on the inside. Thanks in advance I'm a newbie and I'm not sure if I should be posting this here

 

[Horatio]

Are the front wheels meant to be pointing outwards at the front like that, mine looks similar, not sure if I've bent something or they are meant to look like this? All the plastic steering arms and suspension arms look okay but I know they are attached to a metal steering arm length thing on the inside. Thanks in advance I'm a newbie and I'm not sure if I should be posting this here View attachment 12001View attachment 12002

A little bit of Toe out 1-2° is healthy. I'm guessing your Ackerman plate is a little bit bent.

Centralise your servo. Ditto for your servo saver.

Your track rods are fixed length nylon, so it has to be something bendable - that's almost certainly the Ackerman plate.