Shogun Cooling fans

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dan leatham

dan leatham

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Ive got a shogun 6s, ive made a cooling fan out of a mini computer cooling fan running off a 9v battery. Is there a plug and play option?

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I bought a heatsink and fan combo off of ebay that sits around the motor. I then bought a a split harness that goes in the ESC, ESC fan and the motor fans then go in to the split lead.
I wouldn't that these 2 exact items are particularly plug 'n' play since the cables are all really long and I have them wrapped precariously around the body posts at the minute, I need to get out the soldering iron and shorten them up.

I wouldn't advise that exact fan/heatsink combo though since the quality wasn't great. They sent the wrong cabling with it, not once; but twice so right now I only have the one fan mounted. Once I get my soldering iron out again I'll butcher the two cables together to get a fully working system.
They were several options available when I had a look.

Still, ultimately using a split cable is likely a better option than having a 9V battery potentially rattling loose in your chassis?
 
I gone with the surpass hobby 40mm duel fans, but I upgraded the fans to surpass hobby 40mm the aluminium housing fans, the heat skin fits perfect on the Kurt 825, but as storm wind said the cables are long I just cut them to size re soldered and used heat shrink to protect the wires, very easy job 👍🏻

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Stormwind said:
I bought a heatsink and fan combo off of ebay that sits around the motor. I then bought a a split harness that goes in the ESC, ESC fan and the motor fans then go in to the split lead.
I wouldn't that these 2 exact items are particularly plug 'n' play since the cables are all really long and I have them wrapped precariously around the body posts at the minute, I need to get out the soldering iron and shorten them up.

I wouldn't advise that exact fan/heatsink combo though since the quality wasn't great. They sent the wrong cabling with it, not once; but twice so right now I only have the one fan mounted. Once I get my soldering iron out again I'll butcher the two cables together to get a fully working system.
They were several options available when I had a look.

Still, ultimately using a split cable is likely a better option than having a 9V battery potentially rattling loose in your chassis?
Click to expand...
Thanks for that,
Stormwind said:
I bought a heatsink and fan combo off of ebay that sits around the motor. I then bought a a split harness that goes in the ESC, ESC fan and the motor fans then go in to the split lead.
I wouldn't that these 2 exact items are particularly plug 'n' play since the cables are all really long and I have them wrapped precariously around the body posts at the minute, I need to get out the soldering iron and shorten them up.

I wouldn't advise that exact fan/heatsink combo though since the quality wasn't great. They sent the wrong cabling with it, not once; but twice so right now I only have the one fan mounted. Once I get my soldering iron out again I'll butcher the two cables together to get a fully working system.
They were several options available when I had a look.

Still, ultimately using a split cable is likely a better option than having a 9V battery potentially rattling loose in your chassis?
Click to expand...
There isn't a risk to the esc piggybacking the fans? Do you know the voltage of the esc fan. Thanks mate
 
You can either install a Y adapter at the esc where the esc fan plugs in or tap into channel 3 on the receiver. Assuming the receiver is 3 channel. It's possible to overload the esc I suppose, though unlikely with these miniature fans. I've used fans ranging from 5-12v without issues. The 12v fans won't deliver their advertised performance since the most you can send from the Torox esc is 7.4v. They still work though. There's a plethora of heatsinks (HS) out there with and without fans. The Corally Kuron motor already has fins on it so, those are the heatsink. Adding another slip on HS will leave you with voids of hot air trapped between the motor fins and slip on heatsink, not a good idea. You really just need a fan mount and fan(s). I like this (below), but there are many other types out there too.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek...SBOJ2wHa9TD25skIruq48hYWrCXuPXFRoCWQcQAvD_BwE

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KnowAir said:
You can either install a Y adapter at the esc where the esc fan plugs in or tap into channel 3 on the receiver. Assuming the receiver is 3 channel. It's possible to overload the esc I suppose, though unlikely with these miniature fans. I've used fans ranging from 5-12v without issues. The 12v fans won't deliver their advertised performance since the most you can send from the Torox esc is 7.4v. They still work though. There's a plethora of heatsinks (HS) out there with and without fans. The Corally Kuron motor already has fins on it so, those are the heatsink. Adding another slip on HS will leave you with voids of hot air trapped between the motor fins and slip on heatsink, not a good idea. You really just need a fan mount and fan(s). I like this (below), but there are many other types out there too.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek...SBOJ2wHa9TD25skIruq48hYWrCXuPXFRoCWQcQAvD_BwE

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Thanks for the info mate
 
aaronass said:
I use the power hobby dual fan and radio control power has y adapter power switches. A few different types

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U can plug that into esc side great product
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That's a great idea. Being able to turn the fans off!? Wow, why didn't I ever even think of it? LOL.
I have on/off switches I've saved over the years from dead esc's, never occurred to me to use on fans!!🤪🤣🤣
 
The only solution which held up well so far:
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easily connected to the receiver
 
aaronass said:
Running a hv servo with its own dedicated pack is the way to go

Especially pro modeler servos. They recommend it
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For a basher this is completely unnecessary. I know that's what promodeler recommends, I have two of their servos. And I did this installation on my MAXX and after the second pack I got fed up with it and went back to standard installation. To much hassle and doesn't really provide any noticeable improvement vs connecting directly to the receiver with the ESC set at 7.4v. Also, the extra weight of a dedicated battery pack will translate to more breakages.
 
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Here's the near solution I use. Plug and play, twin fans mounted to a finned, vented mount. It definitely helps.
 
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