Muraco Common issues/problems and plus sides with the TC 1/8 Truggies (Muraco, Shogun, Kronos)

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VaporTrail

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Tip of the Spear
Corally RC's
  1. Kronos
  2. Muraco
  3. Python
  4. Shogun
I did the search, but didn't really find anything, so I figured I'd make myself useful while I was here. I'll be posting up my common problems with the 1/8 truggy line (Muraco, Shogun, Kronos) in the hopes of helping others make educated decisions about purchasing one. It is my hope that the others here will also chime in with their experiences so as to give a more complete picture.

THIS IS BY NO MEANS A BASH ON TC. I absolutely love my truggies.

It's just that when researching prior to getting my Muraco, literature seemed to be non-existent about the good and the bad on the platform. If there's any place that should have that info, it should be the Corally forum.

As a disclaimer, your mileage may vary depending on your style of usage. I've never bashed my truggies; they've always been ran on a track. Granted, the track is kinda rough with ruts and rocks, but I've never sent them 20ft in the air or ran them in a skate park. Also, I've only ran my truggies on 4S. Maybe a 6S pass here or there, but nothing prolonged. As I stated, these are my observations based on my experiences, so take the knowledge for whatever worth it is to you.

That being said, lets start with pros and cons.

PROS:

- stout platform
- sturdy parts (minor niggles)
- excellent parts availability
- good prices on parts
- very tuneable for a supposed "basher". Defnitely would make a decent racer at the club level with a good driver. Lighten the weight and add more tuning and you'd have a track threat for sure.
- very decent driving characteristics
- diffs seem to be pretty sorted
- quick access diffs (F,C,R)
- Kuron 825 motor is pretty peppy
- very versatile (can bash or be competitive for entry-level racing)
- competitive pricing for RTR kits
- warranty and customer service appear to be top-notch

CONS:

- hingepin holes on arms tend to oval out
- pillowballs tend to pop (although to be fair, this is an expected occurence with pillowbals); supposedly reduced events with the newer version hubs
- shocks can be midrange in performance
- tends to be on the heavier side
- steering bar bushings can get worn, producing slop
- moisture dust/dirt build up on hingepins which leads to reduced arm mobility
- standard spring steel diff cups can exhibit notching, where the pins on the dogbone/driveshaft can wear a notch in the cup
- regular suspension arm mounts (red color) are prone to bending either forward or back and sometimes up with too many chassis slap landings


In summary, the cons can be rectified with aftermarket parts; either through TC or other aftermarket vendors. My experiences with the TC truggies has been mostly positive, with only slight issues that needed to be sorted out. As mentioned earlier, my experiences have been using the truggies in a racing environment, not 20 foot launches or skatepark bashing. In that context, most of what I experienced was expected wear and tear. All three diffs have performed admirably, without the need to shim anything straight out of the box (as experienced by other brands, although I say this with no ill-will or discontent). The pros are a pleasant surprise for a basher. I've tuned mine to be more performance oriented in a track setting and the truggies have surprised more than one spectator.

Again, your mileage my vary, but I have been pleased with my experience. It is my hope that other users will add their own objective information based on their real-world experiences so that we can help others looking to learn more about Team Corally and possibly assisting them in making a decision to join us.

And who knows? Maybe TC will also see this and make adjustments to their product to solve the more easily rectifiable issues.
 
Good points. Looking at tc newer line up, some of the cons are solved. Pillow balls for example. HD steering hubs solved that. The arms are beefier. Except for the front ones on ethe Sketer.
Major complaints sofar are those wheel nuts and battery straps. When i buy a TC first thing i buy is serrated wheel nuts and better strapes. And i replace the plastic diff housing and check the fluids inside.
Maybe we need a threat with TC weak point. So, what car and what is the issue.
For example.
Sketer: front lower arms break, battery straps snap.
 
I did the search, but didn't really find anything, so I figured I'd make myself useful while I was here. I'll be posting up my common problems with the 1/8 truggy line (Muraco, Shogun, Kronos) in the hopes of helping others make educated decisions about purchasing one. It is my hope that the others here will also chime in with their experiences so as to give a more complete picture.

THIS IS BY NO MEANS A BASH ON TC. I absolutely love my truggies.

It's just that when researching prior to getting my Muraco, literature seemed to be non-existent about the good and the bad on the platform. If there's any place that should have that info, it should be the Corally forum.

As a disclaimer, your mileage may vary depending on your style of usage. I've never bashed my truggies; they've always been ran on a track. Granted, the track is kinda rough with ruts and rocks, but I've never sent them 20ft in the air or ran them in a skate park. Also, I've only ran my truggies on 4S. Maybe a 6S pass here or there, but nothing prolonged. As I stated, these are my observations based on my experiences, so take the knowledge for whatever worth it is to you.

That being said, lets start with pros and cons.

PROS:

- stout platform
- sturdy parts (minor niggles)
- excellent parts availability
- good prices on parts
- very tuneable for a supposed "basher". Defnitely would make a decent racer at the club level with a good driver. Lighten the weight and add more tuning and you'd have a track threat for sure.
- very decent driving characteristics
- diffs seem to be pretty sorted
- quick access diffs (F,C,R)
- Kuron 825 motor is pretty peppy
- very versatile (can bash or be competitive for entry-level racing)
- competitive pricing for RTR kits
- warranty and customer service appear to be top-notch

CONS:

- hingepin holes on arms tend to oval out
- pillowballs tend to pop (although to be fair, this is an expected occurence with pillowbals); supposedly reduced events with the newer version hubs
- shocks can be midrange in performance
- tends to be on the heavier side
- steering bar bushings can get worn, producing slop
- moisture dust/dirt build up on hingepins which leads to reduced arm mobility
- standard spring steel diff cups can exhibit notching, where the pins on the dogbone/driveshaft can wear a notch in the cup
- regular suspension arm mounts (red color) are prone to bending either forward or back and sometimes up with too many chassis slap landings


In summary, the cons can be rectified with aftermarket parts; either through TC or other aftermarket vendors. My experiences with the TC truggies has been mostly positive, with only slight issues that needed to be sorted out. As mentioned earlier, my experiences have been using the truggies in a racing environment, not 20 foot launches or skatepark bashing. In that context, most of what I experienced was expected wear and tear. All three diffs have performed admirably, without the need to shim anything straight out of the box (as experienced by other brands, although I say this with no ill-will or discontent). The pros are a pleasant surprise for a basher. I've tuned mine to be more performance oriented in a track setting and the truggies have surprised more than one spectator.

Again, your mileage my vary, but I have been pleased with my experience. It is my hope that other users will add their own objective information based on their real-world experiences so that we can help others looking to learn more about Team Corally and possibly assisting them in making a decision to join us.

And who knows? Maybe TC will also see this and make adjustments to their product to solve the more easily rectifiable issues.
Great post Vapor, very detailed and informative. I believe you have hit on the issues perfectly well! Much love for TC as well but I would love to see some of these addressed!
 
I was discussing this with @Monsieur Velo .
I've owned my Punisher for a year. Upgrades it needs out of the box:-
  • Tower-to-tower brace.
  • Sticky Velcro in battery tray / on the battery to hold in the packs and stop the packs smashing the front off the tray.
  • Blue threadloc on wheel nuts.
  • HD shock rod ends.
  • Plastic protective caps on the front shocks.
  • Hard springs, F+R.
  • Heavier oil (to compensate for hard springs).
  • HD shock pistons.
  • HD steering knuckles.
  • Swiss spring steel diff cups and output cups (not needed the rear axles)
  • Steering rack doubler plate.
  • BEC voltage turned up to 7,4v makes the servo more lively.
Now when we compared my up-graded Punisher to the stock Kagama, the Kagama 's already got those upgrades (well, except for the wheelnuts 🤪 and Velcro).
 
Good points. Looking at tc newer line up, some of the cons are solved. Pillow balls for example. HD steering hubs solved that. The arms are beefier. Except for the front ones on ethe Sketer.
Major complaints sofar are those wheel nuts and battery straps. When i buy a TC first thing i buy is serrated wheel nuts and better strapes. And i replace the plastic diff housing and check the fluids inside.
Maybe we need a threat with TC weak point. So, what car and what is the issue.
For example.
Sketer: front lower arms break, battery straps snap.

You know, I did order one pack of the HD steering hubs. I guess I'll order some more and replace them on all my rigs. I'm curious to know if the new lineup has compatibility with the older 21-22 XP models. I'm waiting on payday to order some Spark arms to see if they're compatible with the Python.

Speaking of compatibility, the Skeeter uses the same gear box, steering hubs, rear hubs, upper and lower front arms and rear arms as the Python. The steering hubs and rear hubs and gearboxes are the same on the Python as the Shogun, Muraco and Kronos and Sketer.

Good info on the wheel nuts and the straps, and great suggestion on the weak points with particular models. (y)

Great post Vapor, very detailed and informative. I believe you have hit on the issues perfectly well! Much love for TC as well but I would love to see some of these addressed!


Thanks CCB! I agree, I have much love for my TC rigs. They're quite capable out of the box and can perform even better with tuning options. There's some growing pains that need to be sorted, but aside from that they are impressive rigs.

Now I'd like to them participate in some actual EBuggy and ETruggy racing; I'd love to see how they'd hold up against the more race-oriented platforms like Tekno, Mugen, Losi, Xray.

I was discussing this with @Monsieur Velo .
I've owned my Punisher for a year. Upgrades it needs out of the box:-
  • Tower-to-tower brace.
  • Sticky Velcro in battery tray / on the battery to hold in the packs and stop the packs smashing the front off the tray.
  • Blue threadloc on wheel nuts.
  • HD shock rod ends.
  • Plastic protective caps on the front shocks.
  • Hard springs, F+R.
  • Heavier oil (to compensate for hard springs).
  • HD shock pistons.
  • HD steering knuckles.
  • Swiss spring steel diff cups and output cups (not needed the rear axles)
  • Steering rack doubler plate.
  • BEC voltage turned up to 7,4v makes the servo more lively.
Now when we compared my up-graded Punisher to the stock Kagama, the Kagama 's already got those upgrades (well, except for the wheelnuts 🤪 and Velcro).

great points! Thankfully I never experienced the battery breaking the front of the tray or my straps snapping. I have experienced notching on my drive cups and wheelnuts running away, though. As well as shock shaft rod ends breaking and shock shafts bending. IMHO, the shocks need to be refined a little more for track usage.
 
Last edited:
You know, I did order one pack of the HD steering hubs. I guess I'll order some more and replace them on all my rigs. I'm curious to know if the new lineup has compatibility with the older 21-22 XP models. I'm waiting on payday to order some Spark arms to see if they're compatible with the Python.

Speaking of compatibility, the Skeeter uses the same gear box, steering hubs, rear hubs, upper and lower front arms and rear arms as the Python. The steering hubs and rear hubs and gearboxes are the same on the Python as the Shogun, Muraco and Kronos and Sketer.

Good info on the wheel nuts and the straps, and great suggestion on the weak points with particular models. (y)




Thanks CCB! I agree, I have much love for my TC rigs. They're quite capable out of the box and can perform even better with tuning options. There's some growing pains that need to be sorted, but aside from that they are impressive rigs.

Now I'd like to them participate in some actual EBuggy and ETruggy racing; I'd love to see how they'd hold up against the more race-oriented platforms like Tekno, Mugen, Losi, Xray.



great points! Thankfully I never experienced the battery breaking the front of the tray or my straps snapping. I have experienced notching on my drive cups and wheelnuts running away, though. As well as shock shaft rod ends breaking and shock shafts bending. IMHO, the shocks need to be refined a little more for track usage.
lol, I’ve been thinking the same thing myself. Not that I have any inclination to race, I’m just kinda curious to see how they would do in that environment. The way they beefed up the Kagama, it sure will take a beating but it’s heavy as well.

I keep thinking my next kit will most likely be a Tekno because the parts are very easy for me to source. This, in itself isn’t horrible at all but it seems like everything I build lately turns into a truggy some how. Anyway, we will see. I’m fairly sure that it will end up with Sweep Monster Terrain Crushers on it along with a ridiculously huge motor and a giant servo and some very obnoxious paint scheme. I guess it will be obvious to all my friends that it’s mine so I can live with that.
 
lol, I’ve been thinking the same thing myself. Not that I have any inclination to race, I’m just kinda curious to see how they would do in that environment. The way they beefed up the Kagama, it sure will take a beating but it’s heavy as well.

I keep thinking my next kit will most likely be a Tekno because the parts are very easy for me to source. This, in itself isn’t horrible at all but it seems like everything I build lately turns into a truggy some how. Anyway, we will see. I’m fairly sure that it will end up with Sweep Monster Terrain Crushers on it along with a ridiculously huge motor and a giant servo and some very obnoxious paint scheme. I guess it will be obvious to all my friends that it’s mine so I can live with that.

Out here we have a small track that I helped build. It's tight and narrow, with ruts, dips, bumps and the more than occasional rock that'll bump up the rear faster than a staple on a chair. That's the environment that my truggies and my Python have been living in, and the truggies have been performing rather well. We're in the process of adding a layer of rock-free dirt to make the track smooth; once that happens I honestly believe the Shogun's performance is going to be very close to the Tekno and the Losi that it races against. If the Shogun were lightened up to the same weight as the other two? I'm gonna go out on a rather fat limb and say that she'll definitely hold her own. Weight is the biggest obstacle. After that is just tuning capability. Add like 20% more tuning and she'll be a full on racer.

Funny you mention Tekno. I have a EB48.3 that is currently the Queen of my lineup. She'll run circles around the Python, all day every day. The Shogun is approaching that level of performance, so it's kind of exciting to see her progress. I also have a ET48.3 that is making it's way to me, so I'm expecting that it will perform a bit better than the Shogun. My goal is to have my "basher" Shogun win the first race we have, and then I'll break out the ET48.3 to really widen the distance. Interestingly enough, I had a person label my Shogun as a basher. When he came out with his ET48 2.0, he got absolutely trounced. Harumpf. 😅
 

Team Corally – Blaues Fett 40 g – Ideal für O-Ringe, Dichtungen, Lager und Reibungsreduzierer der Aufhängung​





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• Ideal für O-Ringe, Dichtungen, Kugellager
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Yes, that would definitely be helpful! I think only two of the shock collars on four of my Corally rigs moved smoothly. I didn't know they had a specific grease for it. :oops:
 
Hello, I was looking at getting the Muraco next and was wondering what usually breaks first so I know what to buy to fix it. Thank you.
 
what breaks first is usually more dependent on driving style; for example bashing vs. racing. I've only raced my Muraco, and the only thing I've "broken" is a suspension arm mount (aluminum) and the plastic suspension arm mount covers.

My recommendation is to get the expendables first; rear hubs, front steering knuckles, front upper and lower arms, rear arms. If you're running a turnbuckle set up, then add some rod ends for both steering and camber links. if you're running fixed links, then pick up a set of steering links and a set of camber links. Probably wouldn't hurt to get some shock shaft rod ends as well.

Go over your diffs and make sure they have the proper amount of fluid. What voltage will you be running? If you're staying with the stock set up and 4S, your diffs will be fine. If you're running 6S, then I'd get a set of shims and internals. Just one set for now, and then add another set a little later.

Just my opinion. (y)

Edit:

if you're going high jumps and flat landings, I'd recommend getting a set of front and rear suspension arm mounts and their covers. And shock shafts and possibly standoffs.
 
Thank You very much for the information, I do plan to just run stock setup and 4s and I plan to run a turnbuckle setup.

Would the tower to tower brace be good to buy to for bashing and racing?
 
Thank You very much for the information, I do plan to just run stock setup and 4s and I plan to run a turnbuckle setup.

Would the tower to tower brace be good to buy to for bashing and racing?
Tower to tower are standard on the newer muraco right? don't own one but heart about that
 
Thank You very much for the information, I do plan to just run stock setup and 4s and I plan to run a turnbuckle setup.

Would the tower to tower brace be good to buy to for bashing and racing?

Not a problem! Glad to be of assistance. As for the tower brace, I'm in the same boat as Stig. I've heard that the newer models come with a tower to tower brace, but my Muraco was a '21, so it didn't have one.

If you're going to bash more than race, then I suppose the brace will be helpful. For racing, the Muraco is already on the heavy side, so the lighter you can make it the more nimble it will handle. The tower to tower brace might be detrimental weight-wise.

I started out with a Max6 and 4092 motor combo in the Muraco. When I switched out to a Monster X 6S and a Kuron 825 motor, it really made a difference. Well, that and some diff fluid changes. It really made her more nimble.

You can buy a tower to tower brace for your bashing sessions, and then take it off when you're going to the track. The Muraco is pretty stout, so she'll handle most of what's thrown at her in a track setting; provided you keep your bashing tendencies in check. Meaning no 30 foot launches nose first into the face of the jump. 😬
 
Lol. I've seen that guy's videos...he has some rather impressive launches. And he usually lands pretty good.

Yeah, don't launch like that at the track, speedjunkie...but if that's your style, definitely get the brace.
 
Not a problem! Glad to be of assistance. As for the tower brace, I'm in the same boat as Stig. I've heard that the newer models come with a tower to tower brace, but my Muraco was a '21, so it didn't have one.

If you're going to bash more than race, then I suppose the brace will be helpful. For racing, the Muraco is already on the heavy side, so the lighter you can make it the more nimble it will handle. The tower to tower brace might be detrimental weight-wise.

I started out with a Max6 and 4092 motor combo in the Muraco. When I switched out to a Monster X 6S and a Kuron 825 motor, it really made a difference. Well, that and some diff fluid changes. It really made her more nimble.

You can buy a tower to tower brace for your bashing sessions, and then take it off when you're going to the track. The Muraco is pretty stout, so she'll handle most of what's thrown at her in a track setting; provided you keep your bashing tendencies in check. Meaning no 30 foot launches nose first into the face of the jump. 😬
The one I am looking at is a '21, I will buy the brace for bashing and take it out when racing.

Thank you again Vaportrail for your help, and everyone else.
 
When I received my Muraco last year, it came without the tower-to-tower brace and HD steering blocks. I found out that those items came standard on the vehicles sold in Europe but were optional on the models sold in the US. Had I ordered mine from overseas, it would have come with both items, but with the additional shipping cost from Europe it would have cost more to buy it that way than to buy the t-to-t brace and HD steering blocks myself and install them.
 
When I received my Muraco last year, it came without the tower-to-tower brace and HD steering blocks. I found out that those items came standard on the vehicles sold in Europe but were optional on the models sold in the US. Had I ordered mine from overseas, it would have come with both items, but with the additional shipping cost from Europe it would have cost more to buy it that way than to buy the t-to-t brace and HD steering blocks myself and install them.

You got an old stock one, it wasn’t a US vs EUR thing.
 
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