Kronos XTR Center Diff Issue

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We're talking about an aftermarket diff cup, correct? I can't imagine it's actually any different dimensionally than stock. Should go together the same way. There could be some differences in tolerance but not intentionally I don't think.
What fitment issues are you having?

 
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Everything is the same as stock. Just put it back together as you disassembled it.
Use lock tite (blue) for the screws (alu on alu) and buy some gaskets for the diff cup. Centre gaskets are bigger then the front and rear ones. You can look at my Sketer threat. Or Asuga one. Good luck
 
BrettOlbrys said:
I have never done diff service before, so I have a few questions. I had to remove the center diff because I THOUGHT I stripped the gears because my 2022 Kronos XTR wheels froze and there were metal shavings in the chassis. But after taking it apart, it wasn't the gears at all.

Apparently, two bevel gear screws became loose and started eating into the motor mount, and essentially started to grind it down (pictures attached).

1) Based on the photos, do I need to replace the motor mount?

Since I had the center diff out, I figured I would open it up to check the fluid level. Since I have never opened a diff before, I attached some photos for my questions.

2) Is the diff lubricant supposed to be dark or more clear like fresh engine oil?

3) Does the amount of oil look good?

Last issue, when I was removing the center diff motor mount and parts, a little silicone "something" was sitting in the bottom of my chassis.

4) Any idea what it is, and should there be two or just the one?

Thanks

Brett

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Also, when replacing the diff oil, do you disassemble the entire diff and clean off every single gear and part of the old oil before adding the new oil?
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Hello I've seen this before! The pin in the front diff was broken too I'm just going to get 3 new keep the old for parts the bevel gear was pretty worn anyway
 
BrettOlbrys said:
I have never done diff service before, so I have a few questions. I had to remove the center diff because I THOUGHT I stripped the gears because my 2022 Kronos XTR wheels froze and there were metal shavings in the chassis. But after taking it apart, it wasn't the gears at all.

Apparently, two bevel gear screws became loose and started eating into the motor mount, and essentially started to grind it down (pictures attached).

1) Based on the photos, do I need to replace the motor mount?

Since I had the center diff out, I figured I would open it up to check the fluid level. Since I have never opened a diff before, I attached some photos for my questions.

2) Is the diff lubricant supposed to be dark or more clear like fresh engine oil?

3) Does the amount of oil look good?

Last issue, when I was removing the center diff motor mount and parts, a little silicone "something" was sitting in the bottom of my chassis.

4) Any idea what it is, and should there be two or just the one?

Thanks

Brett

View attachment 5491

View attachment 5492

View attachment 5493

View attachment 5494

View attachment 5495

View attachment 5496

View attachment 5497

Also, when replacing the diff oil, do you disassemble the entire diff and clean off every single gear and part of the old oil before adding the new oil?
Click to expand...
I THINK this plastic piece was between the center and front diff housings, but I think it was from the front. Does is matter as long as it's installed between the center and front?

IMG_9113.webp
 
Horatio said:
The stig already replied to this on the second post of this thread. Did you read his response?
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I don't know what the Swiss drive cup is, that's why I am asking. Is this the drive cup in the front diff, the center diff that goes to the front, does it not matter, etc.. ?
 
BrettOlbrys said:
I don't know what the Swiss drive cup is, that's why I am asking. Is this the drive cup in the front diff, the center diff that goes to the front, does it not matter, etc.. ?
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The silicone piece (you describe it as a plastic piece) fits inside the diff output/s - you may have more than one. The stig noted that you have the hardened outputs, which are known as upgrade swiss steel.

1000021501.webp

The silicone piece works as a cushion for the dogbone.

They're fitted - as required - to cushion the centre drive dog bones (centre drive shafts). It stops them from sliding backwards/forwards as much.
 
XashBE said:
I lost mine a long time ago. Don't seem to be that important.
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I don't think they're that important - but bear in mind if there's excessive float, dog bones can fall out. It depends on what you prioritise.

Edit to add: My XTR didn't have any in the first place.

But - dog bones are not always coming out at exactly the same length, so given the slack tolerances, perhaps shorter dog bones necessitate them?
 
XashBE said:
I lost mine a long time ago. Don't seem to be that important.
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I'm wondering if my XTR ever did have them. If so, I never noticed, however I can definitely see a need at the front center to keep that driveshaft properly located since the shaft on my rig is seeing some odd wear.. might have to dive into that one day. Currently, my XTR is in need of some TLC. Shocks leaking, rod ends, hinge pins and arms are SLOPPY!! Too many rc's, too little money to keep up..
 
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