Kagama Alloy Front/Rear Hubs On Kagama/Kronos

[Horatio]

The pins that go through the Corally CVD are shorter that the Arrma pins. This matters, because the pins need to be held in place by the bearing in the hub.

So, once the springs/clips are removed from the Corally driveshafts, the Corally pins can be set aside for a rainy day. The Corally dogbone part of the CVD can then be mated to the Arrma Axle with the Arrma pin from the Arrma CVD - and it's ready to be transplanted into the mutant Corally.

The assembly of the Scorched Parts front hub is a masterclass in quality componentry. It provides 2-part delrin 'lining shells' that encase each pivot ball from both sides. They are held in place by a titanium retaining cap, that are retained by 3 x M3 screws.

Scorched provide 0.2mm shims to take up any slop that develops. Even though my Corally pivot balls are 0.1 - 0.2mm smaller than Arrma Pivot balls, there is no slop in the new hubs whatsoever - just silky smooth movement. Should play develop over time, shims can be added.

3 advantages:

• No need to remove an alloy plug in nylon thread to adjust pivot balls
• No need to adjust alloy plug in nylon thread to remove slop
• Instant access to pivot balls for geometry changes

A couple of assembly notes - the inner liners need to be fitted lined up with rectangular shape in the hub - it matters, otherwise the titanium retainers won't mate properly with the other liner.

Arrma CVDs want to disassemble themselves constantly unless they are happily nestled in the bearing where they live. The moment they are removed, the pins want to eject themselves somewhere you can't find them. Especially when you are in the process of fitting the hub. It's at this point you realise that Corally's spring clips are a bloody good idea!

Watch this space......

 

[Horatio]

Here are some fun facts about Corally Vs Arrma dogbone driveshafts that you may not already know.

1. Corally dogbone ends are 7.6mm dia
2. Arrma dogbone ends are 7.6mm dia at the inboard end, 9.6mm at the hub end
3. Corally pins are in line with each other
4. Arrma pins are 90° opposed to each other to prevent 'driveshaft phasing'
5. Corally driveshaft length pin to pin is 134mm
6. Arrma driveshaft length pin to pin is 143mm

It turns out that the rear hubs were going to require Arrma rear dogbones, even when using Corally arms at the rear. This is because the dogbones sit comparatively deeper in the hub compared to Corally dogbones.

The rear arms required carefully fettling to allow the hub to fit. I decided to Dremel the leading side of each lower arm, where the hub pivots. Material also needs to be removed to allow the larger bearings on the inboard sides to clear the arms, but this is easily achieved with a small rotary stone.

You can see here where I started relieving the arm, removing about 1mm of depth all the way along to the dimple, and adding a small radius at the end.

The rear hubs fit with the Scorched logo facing forwards, as the camber link pick up points are offset to the front. This allows the camber link to run parallel with the arm. Corally camber link screws are too long, but fortunately, Scorched supply their own, along with washers and 4 shims.

The front hubs really are the business. I'm so impressed with the quality of these parts.

The hexes are Treal 7075 T6, items suitable for Kraton 6S or Fireteam. The beauty of these, besides their high quality, is the flexibility. They can be used as extenders when used with spacers/shims. Another really nice touch are O-rings inside the closed, serrated wheel nuts.

The overall look of this major upgrade is absolutely impeccable. Scorched Parts really have raised the bar in terms of finish, materials and design. They also include full instructions for the front hubs, along with some spare screws!

All that remains now, following some very careful application of threadlock, is a quick tweak of camber and tracking.

Then we'll try some 0-60mph runs.

 

[Nelson.81]

Look great, postman says mine arrive today cvds, axles hopefully not be far behind. Treal hexes look great too, it’s 1 part I haven’t ordered yet wasnt sure if the corally hexes will fit or not or if will need arrma ones, I’ll find out soon enough. Think corally have changed design on their dog bones so the pins are also now 90degrees apposed. Curious if it will improve 0-60 times gonna turn my buggy into bit of a speed runner so you’ll give me a target at least.

 

[KnowAir]

View attachment 9482
The pins that go through the Corally CVD are shorter that the Arrma pins. This matters, because the pins need to be held in place by the bearing in the hub.
View attachment 9483
So, once the springs/clips are removed from the Corally driveshafts, the Corally pins can be set aside for a rainy day. The Corally dogbone part of the CVD can then be mated to the Arrma Axle with the Arrma pin from the Arrma CVD - and it's ready to be transplanted into the mutant Corally.

The assembly of the Scorched Parts front hub is a masterclass in quality componentry. It provides 2-part delrin 'lining shells' that encase each pivot ball from both sides. They are held in place by a titanium retaining cap, that are retained by 3 x M3 screws.

View attachment 9484
Scorched provide 0.2mm shims to take up any slop that develops. Even though my Corally pivot balls are 0.1 - 0.2mm smaller than Arrma Pivot balls, there is no slop in the new hubs whatsoever - just silky smooth movement. Should play develop over time, shims can be added.

3 advantages:

• No need to remove an alloy plug in nylon thread to adjust pivot balls
• No need to adjust alloy plug in nylon thread to remove slop
• Instant access to pivot balls for geometry changes

A couple of assembly notes - the inner liners need to be fitted lined up with rectangular shape in the hub - it matters, otherwise the titanium retainers won't mate properly with the other liner.

Arrma CVDs want to disassemble themselves constantly unless they are happily nestled in the bearing where they live. The moment they are removed, the pins want to eject themselves somewhere you can't find them. Especially when you are in the process of fitting the hub. It's at this point you realise that Corally's spring clips are a bloody good idea!

View attachment 9485
Watch this space......

Yes, I too have lost an Arrma cvd pin or two! Captured is the term I believe, and yes I like TC method much mo better too!

 

[KnowAir]

View attachment 9487
Here are some fun facts about Corally Vs Arrma dogbone driveshafts that you may not already know.

1. Corally dogbone ends are 7.6mm dia
2. Arrma dogbone ends are 7.6mm dia at the inboard end, 9.6mm at the hub end
3. Corally pins are in line with each other
4. Arrma pins are 90° opposed to each other to prevent 'driveshaft phasing'
5. Corally driveshaft length pin to pin is 134mm
6. Arrma driveshaft length pin to pin is 143mm

It turns out that the rear hubs were going to require Arrma rear dogbones, even when using Corally arms at the rear. This is because the dogbones sit comparatively deeper in the hub compared to Corally dogbones.

The rear arms required carefully fettling to allow the hub to fit. I decided to Dremel the leading side of each lower arm, where the hub pivots. Material also needs to be removed to allow the larger bearings on the inboard sides to clear the arms, but this is easily achieved with a small rotary stone.

You can see here where I started relieving the arm, removing about 1mm of depth all the way along to the dimple, and adding a small radius at the end.
View attachment 9488
The rear hubs fit with the Scorched logo facing forwards, as the camber link pick up points are offset to the front. This allows the camber link to run parallel with the arm. Corally camber link screws are too long, but fortunately, Scorched supply their own, along with washers and 4 shims.
View attachment 9489

The front hubs really are the business. I'm so impressed with the quality of these parts.

The hexes are Treal 7075 T6, items suitable for Kraton 6S or Fireteam. The beauty of these, besides their high quality, is the flexibility. They can be used as extenders when used with spacers/shims. Another really nice touch are O-rings inside the closed, serrated wheel nuts.

View attachment 9490
The overall look of this major upgrade is absolutely impeccable. Scorched Parts really have raised the bar in terms of finish, materials and design. They also include full instructions for the front hubs, along with some spare screws!

View attachment 9491
All that remains now, following some very careful application of threadlock, is a quick tweak of camber and tracking.

Then we'll try some 0-60mph runs.

Looks amazing brother!
I have to ask, what's with the threaded holes in the wheel nuts?

 

[KnowAir]

Look great, postman says mine arrive today cvds, axles hopefully not be far behind. Treal hexes look great too, it’s 1 part I haven’t ordered yet wasnt sure if the corally hexes will fit or not or if will need arrma ones, I’ll find out soon enough. Think corally have changed design on their dog bones so the pins are also now 90degrees apposed. Curious if it will improve 0-60 times gonna turn my buggy into bit of a speed runner so you’ll give me a target at least.

Arrma and TC use the same threads on the wheel nuts. As do most companies, except Traxxas, they use a courser thread. Why? Who knows, likely to trap people into their walled garden, LOL.

 

[Horatio]

Looks amazing brother!
I have to ask, what's with the threaded holes in the wheel nuts?

If you want to, you can screw metric screws in to make it look much more important than it really is! Probably.

 

[Horatio]

Due to the geometry and position of the steering arm on the Scorched hub, to avoid excessive bump-steer, the trackrods have to be mounted with the ball uppermost on the steering stub.

Initially I had attempted to mount them under the arm - with comedy results!

 

[Horatio]

Look great, postman says mine arrive today cvds, axles hopefully not be far behind. Treal hexes look great too, it’s 1 part I haven’t ordered yet wasnt sure if the corally hexes will fit or not or if will need arrma ones, I’ll find out soon enough. Think corally have changed design on their dog bones so the pins are also now 90degrees apposed. Curious if it will improve 0-60 times gonna turn my buggy into bit of a speed runner so you’ll give me a target at least.

Sadly, they won't - not without 3mm spacers.

Can't wait to see how you get on! Keep us all posted.

 

[KnowAir]

View attachment 9499
Due to the geometry and position of the steering arm on the Scorched hub, to avoid excessive bump-steer, the trackrods have to be mounted with the ball uppermost on the steering stub.

Initially I had attempted to mount them under the arm - with comedy results!

Looks like ur right to the max on steer link adjustment? Maybe not, I don’t recall how long the threads are on theTC steer links. Pretty sure I replaced at least one of mine with an Arrma or other brand after breaking the stock part.

 

[Nelson.81]

Sadly, they won't - not without 3mm spacers.

Can't wait to see how you get on! Keep us all posted.

Thanks for the heads up I’ll get some ordered along with some more axles/Cvd as my order was cancelled happens so often for me sellers offer free shipping to uk then they go to ship it to Northern Ireland(part of uk) and it’s twice price & orders get cancelled anyway the rest of the parts are here to start the makeover apart from a bodyshell as not going to use the bittydesign one I got as it for nitro buggy but my current shell in good order so no real rush to replace it atm. Working all wkend anyway so hopefully axles be here for when I’m off next wk get a start made on things.

 

[soupcoop]

looks bash-able

 

[Horatio]

Looks like ur right to the max on steer link adjustment? Maybe not, I don’t recall how long the threads are on theTC steer links. Pretty sure I replaced at least one of mine with an Arrma or other brand after breaking the stock part.

I had to make my track rods shorter, otherwise there was excessive toe-in. Seems within limits.

The main issue was the angle from the Ackerman to the carbon steering stub. On the stock hubs, it connects to the ball under the steering stub. Trying it like this on the new hubs resulted in crazy bump-steer. At full droop - crazy toe-out. Arms level - 0° toe. Full compression - crazy toe-in!

On the new arrangement, it has to connect on top of the stub - and the bump-steer drama goes away completely.

 

[Atomic Skull]

View attachment 9499
Due to the geometry and position of the steering arm on the Scorched hub, to avoid excessive bump-steer, the trackrods have to be mounted with the ball uppermost on the steering stub.

Initially I had attempted to mount them under the arm - with comedy results!

That's a problem even with Corally hubs albeit to a lesser extent. I've considered moving the steering link to the top like that but I'm using the stock non adjustable ones and that would affect toe.

 

[Atomic Skull]

Arrma CVDs want to disassemble themselves constantly unless they are happily nestled in the bearing where they live. The moment they are removed, the pins want to eject themselves somewhere you can't find them. Especially when you are in the process of fitting the hub. It's at this point you realise that Corally's spring clips are a bloody good idea!

The flip side of that is the wall of the CVD cup is thicker. The CVDs on my Asuga have elongated holes where the pins are now because the wall has to be thin where the clip and pin are and the metal has warped over time. Hopefully the new style Corally CVDs will leave out the groove where the pin is because the clip is no longer needed with the external retaining shell holding in the pin. That would double the wall thickness and make it much stronger.

 

[shortround9191]

View attachment 9482
The pins that go through the Corally CVD are shorter that the Arrma pins. This matters, because the pins need to be held in place by the bearing in the hub.
View attachment 9483
So, once the springs/clips are removed from the Corally driveshafts, the Corally pins can be set aside for a rainy day. The Corally dogbone part of the CVD can then be mated to the Arrma Axle with the Arrma pin from the Arrma CVD - and it's ready to be transplanted into the mutant Corally.

The assembly of the Scorched Parts front hub is a masterclass in quality componentry. It provides 2-part delrin 'lining shells' that encase each pivot ball from both sides. They are held in place by a titanium retaining cap, that are retained by 3 x M3 screws.

View attachment 9484
Scorched provide 0.2mm shims to take up any slop that develops. Even though my Corally pivot balls are 0.1 - 0.2mm smaller than Arrma Pivot balls, there is no slop in the new hubs whatsoever - just silky smooth movement. Should play develop over time, shims can be added.

3 advantages:

• No need to remove an alloy plug in nylon thread to adjust pivot balls
• No need to adjust alloy plug in nylon thread to remove slop
• Instant access to pivot balls for geometry changes

A couple of assembly notes - the inner liners need to be fitted lined up with rectangular shape in the hub - it matters, otherwise the titanium retainers won't mate properly with the other liner.

Arrma CVDs want to disassemble themselves constantly unless they are happily nestled in the bearing where they live. The moment they are removed, the pins want to eject themselves somewhere you can't find them. Especially when you are in the process of fitting the hub. It's at this point you realise that Corally's spring clips are a bloody good idea!

View attachment 9485
Watch this space......

I have started making my own from old worn drill bits to get a perfect fit

 

[Atomic Skull]

Well they were pretty while they lasted. Bent balls, split upper arm, warped ball seats in the steering knuckle. Slid a little too much in a turn and clipped the curb at 30mph with the front wheel, didn't even seem like that much when it happened.

EDIT: Had a pack of these laying around so I used them as replacements.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804484238723.html

The standoff is 1.4mm longer than the stock balls but the ball is the same diamater.

 

[Horatio]

Useful shims for setting wheel hexes and axle float.

I also have some 3mm spacers on the way, but they're nowhere to be seen as yet.

 

[Horatio]

My RC pursuits were put on hold while I took time out with my wife for some R&R at Brighton for 5 days. It was a great trip!

The XTR is ready for 0-60mph runs and I'm really looking forward to seeing how the rig drives following the recent upgrades.

A brand new Protek has been fitted to the Sworkz T2E (with the shorter lead), so this frees up the AGF 81BHMW for the Savage SS.

Now that the rain has stopped, I'll be taking the XTR and the T2E out for a blast.

 

[Horatio]

The XTR looking purposeful!

With revised, slightly narrower front track, I was really interested to see how the truck's steering response was.

Simply put - the truck has excellent rotation and very fast steering response. The rig is very manoeuvrable and can tuck into corners, even at the very limits of traction.

And 0-60mph?

On the stock Kuron 825, Onyx 6S, Torox ESC, 13/46.

This is a great result on a sub-optimal day!

There is definitely more potential to be released with this chassis.