Kagama Alloy Front/Rear Hubs On Kagama/Kronos

[Nelson.81]

I’ve saw similar ones on AliExpress but not available atm, gmp also does hubs for corally but design looks not as durable. Vitavon front hubs weren’t available for a while so I’m hoping they’ve maybe changed design as someone posted before about them loosing a bit of steering angle but I’ll find out when mine arrive.

 

[shortround9191]

Please do something I’ve been thinking of upgrading also

 

[Horatio]

Please do something I’ve been thinking of upgrading also

I'm going to be getting Scorched Parts all round the Kronos. And then making stuff work one way or another, explaining what (if anything) was needed.

If it requires Arrma axles, so be it.

I have adjustable turn buckles on my rig, so that might help.

But precision hubs and high speed bearings, stripped of grease, then lubed with a special light weight bearing lube = higher speeds and better 0-60mph times.

That's what I keep telling myself.

But also: so shiny....

 

[shortround9191]

I'm going to be getting Scorched Parts all round the Kronos. And then making stuff work one way or another, explaining what (if anything) was needed.

If it requires Arrma axles, so be it.

I have adjustable turn buckles on my rig, so that might help.

But precision hubs and high speed bearings, stripped of grease, then lubed with a special light weight bearing lube = higher speeds and better 0-60mph times.

That's what I keep telling myself.

But also: so shiny....

I like my adjustable everything and has been very durable so a double win

 

[Nelson.81]

I'm going to be getting Scorched Parts all round the Kronos. And then making stuff work one way or another, explaining what (if anything) was needed.

If it requires Arrma axles, so be it.

I have adjustable turn buckles on my rig, so that might help.

But precision hubs and high speed bearings, stripped of grease, then lubed with a special light weight bearing lube = higher speeds and better 0-60mph times.

That's what I keep telling myself.

But also: so shiny....

Where there a will there’s a way you might end up having to use Kraton arms too they won’t look as fancy as corally with carbon inserts but probably be lighter. Edwin Lomonaco put armma diffs in his corally with spring steel outdrives so anything is possible if you put your mind to it. I’ve considered adding the scorched arms also which if your building more a speed runner you could consider that option too the new arms he has developed with rockers are pretty cool.

 

[Atomic Skull]

Looks interesting. I wonder if it's cast stuff? They look nice though....

Cast metal has much higher manufacturing costs than milled that you only make up in volume so probbaly not.

Why not just get the ADU racing hubs for TC vehicles? I have those on my Asuga, the rear hubs probably make no difference but the front ones move more smoothly than the stock plastic ones.

 

[Atomic Skull]

So I’ve been down this rabbit hole myself lately, I have the vitavon hubs on the way for my Kronos(stuck in customs should been here already) & I’m going to order the scorched typhon hubs(on mailing list been out stock for wks) for my buggy rebuild. Changing axles only way I see to do it, the external bearing is same size as corally but internal is different, I thought if could find bearing correct dimensions to fit internal bearing could use corally axles but I searched everywhere couldn’t find size required. So changing axles only way I see to do it. I think the pivot balls are the same size, I was going to add the scorched titanium ones until I saw an post from adu, they’ve released lightweight versions for corally/arrma the pitch on the thread is different so will have to stick with corally ones.

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Aluminum on aluminum galls, steel on aluminum doesn't the steel initially polishes the aluminum then the wear stops assuming no excessive pressure.

What I'd like to see is PTFE (teflon) balls, low friction so you can slightly preload them. Hobao has those for some of their vehicles and they are great, no 14mm ones though they are 12mm.

Also that aluminum hex socket WILL cause problems.

 

[Atomic Skull]

View attachment 9348
And these....

Pivot balls must be similar size, right.....

ARRMA pivot balls are the same size (14mm) with a standoff that is approximately 1mm longer.

 

[Nelson.81]

Aluminum on aluminum galls, steel on aluminum doesn't the steel initially polishes the aluminum then the wear stops assuming no excessive pressure.

What I'd like to see is PTFE (teflon) balls, low friction so you can slightly preload them. Hobao has those for some of their vehicles and they are great, no 14mm ones though they are 12mm.

Also that aluminum hex socket WILL cause problems.

The hubs have delrin linings so galing not an issue & the scorched titanium pivot balls also have a pvd coating

 

[Horatio]

Cast metal has much higher manufacturing costs than milled that you only make up in volume so probbaly not.

Monkey metal is much cheaper than CNC stuff - and far weaker. Good example is precision CNC machined gears Vs cast (or other cases sintered) ones.

Why not just get the ADU racing hubs for TC vehicles? I have those on my Asuga, the rear hubs probably make no difference but the front ones move more smoothly than the stock plastic ones.

The only real advantages with alloy hubs over composite is the precision in which they carry the bearings and rigidity.

At 29 grams (including the bearings) for the 7075 rear Carriers, the Scorched item is a better engineered component than the current Corally specific options that may be compatible when used with Kraton stub axles and or lower arms. We shall see.

 

[Horatio]

Aluminum on aluminum galls, steel on aluminum doesn't the steel initially polishes the aluminum then the wear stops assuming no excessive pressure.

What I'd like to see is PTFE (teflon) balls, low friction so you can slightly preload them. Hobao has those for some of their vehicles and they are great, no 14mm ones though they are 12mm.

Also that aluminum hex socket WILL cause problems.

Have you looked at these Scorched Parts items? They have delrin inserts. So no galling.

Scorched Parts are about the best in the business. Up there along with Bone Head - closely followed by M2C, Turtle. Even better is the fact that they're UK based and the parts arrive within a day or two for me. Win win.

I'm happy to use parts of that quality designed for a similar vehicle like the Kraton, then making them fit. That's basically my entire rig at this stage anyway!

 

[Atomic Skull]

Monkey metal is much cheaper than CNC stuff - and far weaker. Good example is precision CNC machined gears Vs cast (or other cases sintered) ones.

But the equipment to make it costs more than a house so it only pulls ahead in volume. CNC milling tables are expensive but more versatile and comparatively cheap compared to a foundry. Moulds are also hideously expensive, even moulds for plastic parts are. We're tralking new car and house money depending on the size of the mould.

EDIT: Ever wonder why so many unrelated servos have identical plastic case? It's because Hyundai's plastics division and others keep back catalogs of abandoned moulds. If you can find an abandoned mould that will work it saves you a lot of money and you see that in R/C a lot. The most famous example of a reused mould is the mould for the Atari Jaguar console that got repurposed as the housing on a dental camera.

 

[Horatio]

But the equipment to make it costs more that a house so it only pulls ahead in volume. CNC milling tables are expensive but more versatile and comparatively cheap compared to a foundry. Moulds are also hideously expensive, even moulds for plastic parts are. I recall the guy that owns Audacity Models saying that the moulds to make the main plastic frame on the Tiger 50 cost him around $100,000

Dude, if an Indian guy can sand cast a crank case for his Honda 3 step in a tin shed, I'm not really wondering how much the tool up costs are for the monkey metal parts that have flooded the market for the last decade from China.

I doubt very much they cost as much as my house, but I suppose it's all relative and depends on the house, right?

But let's not be concerned with someone else's tool up costs anyway, and accept that a good number of cast or sintered products are definitely being sold with unspecified metallurgy, which are evidently cheaper and weaker than the CNC 7075 parts that I was referring to.

Some of the cheaper stuff that we're seeing here is very likely to be pot metal, finished on a CNC (if you're lucky). There's a big difference. As for volume - they're meeting the demands of US, European, Australian and Asian markets - so they've clearly done the maths and cottoned on that one part may fit several Corally rigs.

Fun fact: when I talked to Dave from Scorched about upgrade parts for the Kronos XTR, I had to explain to him what one was! Yet he has a full compliment of parts for the Hobao VTE2.

 

[Horatio]

I’ve saw similar ones on AliExpress but not available atm, gmp also does hubs for corally but design looks not as durable. Vitavon front hubs weren’t available for a while so I’m hoping they’ve maybe changed design as someone posted before about them loosing a bit of steering angle but I’ll find out when mine arrive.

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View attachment 9361

Just found out that the GPM stuff today is 6061 T6 alloy! Nice. They also make certain bits out of 7075.

GPM were highly regarded back in the Savage era, so they're still doing good stuff, which is good to hear.

So these are some nice Sketer parts and well worth a look!

 

[Nelson.81]

The front gpm hubs I don’t really like the design where the steering link would attach too doesn’t look like it would take a good hit they wouldn’t be my 1st choice. Scorched or vitavon the best options imo, My vitavon hubs should been here a wk ago seem to have been stuck in customs then get an updated delivery date maybe next wk . Scorched front hubs been out stock for wks too getting impatient lol.

 

[shortround9191]

The front gpm hubs I don’t really like the design where the steering link would attach too doesn’t look like it would take a good hit they wouldn’t be my 1st choice. Scorched or vitavon the best options imo, My vitavon hubs should been here a wk ago seem to have been stuck in customs then get an updated delivery date maybe next wk . Scorched front hubs been out stock for wks too getting impatient lol.

View attachment 9406

Please keep us updated I’m actually considering trying the Amazon ones. For the price if there crap I can post so no one else makes the mistake or if there good a win win green of course for the Kagama4 first

 

[Nelson.81]

Please keep us updated I’m actually considering trying the Amazon ones. For the price if there crap I can post so no one else makes the mistake or if there good a win win green of course for the Kagama4 first

View attachment 9407

They’re a bit more expensive but the vitavon are also available in green, I’ve gone with red to match my gearbox/diff case

 

[shortround9191]

Awesome not rich but do very well on retirement will look into full set most definitely

 

[Atomic Skull]

My understanding is that 7075 can only be anodized clear or black and any other color anodizing is not possible. The gold Kagama LE parts for example are some electroplating process not anodized.

 

[shortround9191]

I’m sure it’s very similar to the Gold process we used years ago on car parts for those who wanted the gold bling. I think the 7075 is excellent but not sure if totally necessary on hubs unless super extreme bashing. I’d think for most who are light mod bashing the lower quality aluminum will hold up just fine while if you want bling there’s color choices.