Kronos XTR How to get the servo horn off??

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Starfox2005

Starfox2005

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Corally RC's
  1. Kronos XTR
Help! It's just spinning the bushing underneath how to I get it off? Thanks Guys! Bushing is silver.

IMG_20220623_190116459.webp
 
First of all: get the plastic of the ball link.
The ball is probably mounted with thread lock. The best is to apply some heat e.g. with a soldering iron or a heat gun.
Then grab the ball with a pair of pliers (carefully!) and unscrew.

OR use a new ball link and horn :P
 
ol1ver said:
First of all: get the plastic of the ball link.
The ball is probably mounted with thread lock. The best is to apply some heat e.g. with a soldering iron or a heat gun.
Then grab the ball with a pair of pliers (carefully!) and unscrew.

OR use a new ball link and horn :p
Click to expand...
Yeah I did exactly this and it worked out great! They must have used some thread locker from the factory? I'm not sure why? Thanks!
 
DaniC said:
Unless it's different than the one it comes with the '22 XTR, I thought the ball side would take a 2.5mm hex and then the screw a 2mm hex no?
Click to expand...
I believe you're right. Thread locker on all metal to metal fasteners is the general rule. Exception being when a nylon insert nut is used such as shock standoffs.
But yes both the ball and screw should accept a hex wrench. I would definitely recommend thread locker here.
 
DaniC said:
Unless it's different than the one it comes with the '22 XTR, I thought the ball side would take a 2.5mm hex and then the screw a 2mm hex no?
Click to expand...
I wonder how many people have chewed up their balls (that sounds so wrong) with pliers, applied heat, hit it with hammers, sworn - and then realised it has a hex inside it! 🤣
 
Horatio said:
I wonder how many people have chewed up their balls (that sounds so wrong) with pliers, applied heat, hit it with hammers, sworn - and then realised it has a hex inside it! 🤣
Click to expand...
I don't think mine had a hex inside of it... I'm not sure. If you're careful it won't chew it up if you apply light pressure.
 
Starfox2005 said:
I don't think mine had a hex inside of it... I'm not sure. If you're careful it won't chew it up if you apply light pressure.
Click to expand...
Maybe not. I'll take a look today and refresh my memory.

I fitted a different horn - the one that came with my AGF servo was an alloy clamping type. I don't recall any issues fitting it tbh. I didn't use pliers.

Gripping things with pliers, especially if the surface finish of the thing being gripped is smooth (like a shock shaft) or delicate (like a screw thread) - poses a catch 22. Lighter pressure can result in slippage which can result in scratches.

I usually use a rag between the pliers and the thing being gripped.

For shock shafts, I use the cutter to grip it - right between the thread and the polished part of the shaft.
 
Horatio said:
For shock shafts, I use the cutter to grip it - right between the thread and the polished part of the shaft.
Click to expand...
Interesting approach! I just use a rag layered several times and apply loads of pressure with locking pliers, but there's still some slippage since times.
I recently bought one of those special shock shaft pliers to try them out.
 
DaniC said:
Interesting approach! I just use a rag layered several times and apply loads of pressure with locking pliers, but there's still some slippage since times.
I recently bought one of those special shock shaft pliers to try them out.
Click to expand...
It's a 'trick of the trade' when screwing on shock ends, or track rod ends.

The cutter grips very tightly, but over a much smaller surface area than pliers would. If you grip it right at the point where the thread starts, you don't damage the thread, or the polished area. Voila!

I'm certain the new tools would be even better still.
 
Starfox2005 said:
I don't think mine had a hex inside of it... I'm not sure. If you're careful it won't chew it up if you apply light pressure.
Click to expand...
You're right. There are hexes in the balls on the trackrods, but not on the linkage from the servo. I needed to take mine to bits today.

So you just have to use faith/PMA. 😂🙏
 
Horatio said:
You're right. There are hexes in the balls on the trackrods, but not on the linkage from the servo. I needed to take mine to bits today.

So you just have to use faith/PMA. 😂🙏
Click to expand...
That stinks, crappy idea they should have a hex in the ball at least. Or, have the screw go in from the ball side and thread into the servo horn? IDK.
I suppose one could try gripping the plastic rod end with pliers and tightly squeeze to try and prevent the ball from spinning?
Gotta be a better way..
 
KnowAir said:
That stinks, crappy idea they should have a hex in the ball at least. Or, have the screw go in from the ball side and thread into the servo horn? IDK.
I suppose one could try gripping the plastic rod end with pliers and tightly squeeze to try and prevent the ball from spinning?
Gotta be a better way..
Click to expand...
It hasn't been a problem for me so far, because I usually disconnected the linkage from the servo saver side - which is a button head into a nyloc.

Originally, I removed said linkage once only from the red alloy servo horn supplied (of unknown spline-age) and fitted it to my AGF clamping one, where that end of the linkage has remained ever since, threadlocked in.

It's not ideal, no. Xray, Losi, Mugen, Tekno have hexes in theirs. Corally do in the larger ones - just not the linkage ones.

There were no issues getting it out though - I just used my Hudy hex driver in one hand and gripped with the other - I didn't need pliers or anything scratchy like that.
 
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