Kronos XTR 2022 build by DaniC

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DaniC said:
They do ship direct yes. I asked them before. I just use the parcel forwarding service because they handle all the import paperwork and it's just easier.


Yeah, they're pricey, but they'll probably outlive everything else, including the truck itself! 😅
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Hear!Hear! I know you're right! I'll try to keep that in my the next time one of my cheapo DS strips a gear and I have to do the 180 rotation to get more life out of it!!🤣🤣
 
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Here's the email I had sent them @BashingBrian ;)(y)
John Beech is the owner and he's very sound.

Screenshot at May 26 21-06-55.webp
 
Drove my XTR today for the first time and immediately noticed two things I need to address. The motor gets extremely hot, it needs a good heatsink and fan for sure. I kinda knew this already and had ordered a heatsink with dual fans, but it hasn't arrived.
The other thing is the servo saver is very loose, so I need to tighten it a good bit.
Jumps nicely and it's well balanced. Handling experience was not good today because of the servo saver, easy fix hopefully.

But I'm wondering if I need to drop a tooth on the pinion...? 🤔 I worry that even with the heatsink and fans it might still be on the got side... Thoughts?
 
That's strange, I run my Radix 6s with 17T and it doesn't get above around 150 degrees.
I know it's a lighter buggy that a XTR but I wouldn't of thought the XTR would get that hot.!!
Have you tried it on 6s ??
I ask because when I run my Sketer on 4s it got extremely hot, I have now re-greared it for 6s and have yet to test it....🤔

P.S. I don't run any fans on the the Radix and only run the small 30mm one on the Sketer..!! ( I don't think it does much to be honest 🤪 )
 
BashingBrian said:
That's strange, I run my Radix 6s with 17T and it doesn't get above around 150 degrees.
I know it's a lighter buggy that a XTR but I wouldn't of thought the XTR would get that hot.!!
Have you tried it on 6s ??
I ask because when I run my Sketer on 4s it got extremely hot, I have now re-greared it for 6s and have yet to test it....🤔

P.S. I don't run any fans on the the Radix and only run the small 30mm one on the Sketer..!! ( I don't think it does much to be honest 🤪 )
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I haven't tried 6S yet no. It was a hot day yesterday, well by Irish standards it was hot at around 22C. 😅
That heatsink and fans I ordered should arrive soon, it should make a big difference. I might also put high RPM fans on it.
I'm also going to speed test it, I think I might have room for dropping a tooth while still having decent speed.
 
Less volts (4s) will draw more amps than higher volts (6s) all other variables being kept the same, ie gearing, motor and load. Amp draw is where the heat is generated I'm pretty sure.
 
KnowAir said:
Less volts (4s) will draw more amps than higher volts (6s) all other variables being kept the same, ie gearing, motor and load. Amp draw is where the heat is generated I'm pretty sure.
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Yes now that you mention it it's making a ton of sense! I think I saw a very good video about this, I'll look it up.
 
KnowAir said:
Less volts (4s) will draw more amps than higher volts (6s) all other variables being kept the same, ie gearing, motor and load. Amp draw is where the heat is generated I'm pretty sure.
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Couldn't find that video, but found similar bits of information here and there.

So I think it all boils down to Power (watts) = volts x amps. Amps is current ad it's what generates heat, therefore increasing the volts in that simple formula means you'd need less amps to produce the same watts. Less amps should result in less heat.
If on top of that I put a 12T pinion then, and a heatsink with fans then I think the overheating problem should be resolved.
Looking at the chart in the maintenance docs dropping to 12T should still produce very good top speeds.
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Am I on the right track?
 
DaniC said:
Couldn't find that video, but found similar bits of information here and there.

So I think it all boils down to Power (watts) = volts x amps. Amps is current ad it's what generates heat, therefore increasing the volts in that simple formula means you'd need less amps to produce the same watts. Less amps should result in less heat.
If on top of that I put a 12T pinion then, and a heatsink with fans then I think the overheating problem should be resolved.
Looking at the chart in the maintenance docs dropping to 12T should still produce very good top speeds.
View attachment 2440

Am I on the right track?
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I would think so, dropping a tooth on the pinion should decrease the load the electronics are seeing. The heatsink and fans will definitely help as well.

Summer heat can be a real challenge for these rc's. I mean sure the fans will help tremendously, but they are very delicate. I know there have been many times over the years that I have or nearly have cooked my motor when the fan unknowingly stopped working..
 
DaniC said:
Konnte dieses Video nicht finden, fand aber hier und da ähnliche Informationen.

Ich denke also, es läuft alles auf Leistung (Watt) = Volt x Ampere hinaus. Ampere ist aktuell und erzeugt Wärme. Wenn Sie also die Voltzahl in dieser einfachen Formel erhöhen, benötigen Sie weniger Ampere, um die gleichen Watt zu erzeugen. Weniger Ampere sollten zu weniger Wärme führen.
Wenn ich dann noch ein 12T-Ritzel und einen Kühlkörper mit Lüftern einbaue, sollte das Überhitzungsproblem meiner Meinung nach gelöst sein.
Ein Blick auf die Tabelle in den Wartungsdokumenten, die auf 12T fallen, sollte immer noch sehr gute Höchstgeschwindigkeiten erzeugen.
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Bin ich auf dem richtigen Weg?
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Ja!!!! 12T ist ein Muss!!!!!!
 
Koma71 said:
Ja!!!! 12T ist ein Muss!!!!!!
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Yeah, what he said 👆 Whatever he said..JK..but seems to be 12t max pinion? I think I have a 14t on mine but am running considerably smaller than stock tires(backflip LP).. summer heat is a killer for electronics. Keep a close eye on it.

It's been a bit since I put my XTR together, so not sure exactly what it's got for a pinion TBH.. but I don't gear my stuff out for speed either, I usually am stock or close to that with all my rigs.
 
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DaniC said:
Installed this serrated wheel nuts. What do you think?
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Tbest RC Hub Nut, 17mm 4Pcs Aluminium Alloy Dust-proof Hub Nut Wheel Accessory for 1/8 RC Car Model https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B083F...n_i_JZNWSB1TV41238DZB6FW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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As much as I don't really care for red they look nice. I wonder if they have black or silver?

-edit- I only see red, blue or orange. The orange might look cool on my Outcast.
-edit- I found some black ones from a different "brand"
 
Had a bash today and was able to properly take some temp measurements of the motor and the hottest it got was 70C at the back and 65C at the side of the can. So not as bad as I initially thought!
I think I'll stick with 4S and just got to a 12T pinion plus the heatsink and dual fans. As much as I want to go 6S I'm really trying to avoid the extra wear and tear that comes with it. Right? And 4S is still loads of fun.
 
DaniC said:
Had a bash today and was able to properly take some temp measurements of the motor and the hottest it got was 70C at the back and 65C at the side of the can. So not as bad as I initially thought!
I think I'll stick with 4S and just got to a 12T pinion plus the heatsink and dual fans. As much as I want to go 6S I'm really trying to avoid the extra wear and tear that comes with it. Right? And 4S is still loads of fun.
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Whatever puts a smile on your face! I have experienced both 4 and 6s(even 5s).. I'm good with 4s until someone else show's up running 6s..then I start getting itchy🤔😮🤣🤣
 
I got the heatsink. It's really nice and I'm sure it'll do a great job at keeping the motor cool. But I'm slightly disappointed with the colour, it's a weird shade of red and doesn't match the red TC uses in the anodised metals. Yes I know, it's only a basher and all that, but I'm a sucker for colour matching.
So, I might have already ordered another one of these in black.... and I might or might not change it later on.
It also comes with plastic 16000rpm fans, they're ok but when they break I plan to replace them with aluminium 26000rpm ones.

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For cable management I just plan to drill small holes on the side of the plastic guards and tie the cables with zip ties. Maybe...
 
DaniC said:
I got the heatsink. It's really nice and I'm sure it'll do a great job at keeping the motor cool. But I'm slightly disappointed with the colour, it's a weird shade of red and doesn't match the red TC uses in the anodised metals. Yes I know, it's only a basher and all that, but I'm a sucker for colour matching.
So, I might have already ordered another one of these in black.... and I might or might not change it later on.
It also comes with plastic 16000rpm fans, they're ok but when they break I plan to replace them with aluminium 26000rpm ones.

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For cable management I just plan to drill small holes on the side of the plastic guards and tie the cables with zip ties. Maybe...
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Lookin good👍 I see what you mean with the color.. you've seen my trashy setup, soo looks perfect to me!!🤣🤣🍻
Nice truck!!
 
I always do this mod on my fans, I put a 2mm spacer between the fan and the heatsink and the fan protector. Before doing this leaves and grass used to get stuck between the fan blades and the protector or the heatsink and the fan would break. Allowing this gap means anything that goes in can easily go out.
Here I had just done one to show the difference.
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And here it is installed and the cabled tidied up.
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Also got a 12T pinion in case the heatsink and fans are not enough to keep the temps down.
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