Asuga homemade chassis + new layout

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Atomic Skull said:
Corally and Arrma center diffs are nearly identical distance from bearing to bearing (less than 0.2 difference) which opens up the possibility of using aftermarket tool steel outdrive cups.
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It’s been done, I have arrma drive cups from scorched I’m going to use on my build with the titanium shafts both corally/arrma drive cups fit 5mm shaft.


IMG_9310.webp
 
Atomic Skull said:
Corally and Arrma center diffs are nearly identical distance from bearing to bearing (less than 0.2 difference) which opens up the possibility of using aftermarket tool steel outdrive cups.
Click to expand...
I have used TC center diffs in Arrma 6s rigs, as well as in my Xray 1/8 buggy.
Also using TC spring steel input cups on Arrma diffs.
 
KnowAir said:
I have used TC center diffs in Arrma 6s rigs, as well as in my Xray 1/8 buggy.
Also using TC spring steel input cups on Arrma diffs.
Click to expand...
IDK why Corally uses spring steel for that it's a poor steel for bearings. Tool steel would be better.
 
Atomic Skull said:
IDK why Corally uses spring steel for that it's a poor steel for bearings. Tool steel would be better.
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Corally uses the same material that Xray market as Hudy Spring steel. It's swiss, and essentially a form of tool steel.

Whatever it is, I'm still using the same Hudy wrenches from 20+ years ago, so my guess is that outdrives/inputs made from the stuff are excellent.

Zero complaints! Using any other material would be a solution in search of a problem.
 
stephane z said:
what corally steel parts do typically break ? on my asuga i bent the chassis, the shock towers, the center brace... but transmission is doing good so far, 6s 4274 power only
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The old black input/outdrive wear rapidly, as do the black dogbones. This is largely down to weird and wonderful centre drive angles though.

The HD 'spring steel' items are much harder wearing.
 
Horatio said:
The old black input/outdrive wear rapidly, as do the black dogbones. This is largely down to weird and wonderful centre drive angles though.

The HD 'spring steel' items are much harder wearing.
Click to expand...

i recognized the weird colour ! i got a xray xt8 truggy and indeed, it is a good steel i think. i actually have more often trouble with suspension arms and chassis, what ever the brand !
 
On that subject, I have the luxury on my 22X-4 Elite of trying these (rare as unicorn tears) MOD puck & Bi metallic centre drive system.

27852.webp


You can't see very clearly from this, but the 'pucks' (the little orange parts) are essentially pin cushions or 'blades' that fit into a wider output slot. They reduce friction, wear in the outputs, and facilitate the use of much lighter (softer) driveshafts for upto 50% lower rotating mass. All of which are highly desirable for racing. Only the pucks wear - these are easily replaced. (Provided you have spares! 😅).

In due course, the whole car will be converted over.

27853.webp

Less wear, quicker acceleration, less slop.

That being said - all of the above are desirable for custom builds as well, because nobody likes worn out inputs/outputs. It's such a simple concept, which has been implemented for years - why aren't Arrma or Corally jumping on this as standard?
 
To add: having less backlash in the drive would make for much better air control for jump rigs. 😎👌
 
Horatio said:
On that subject, I have the luxury on my 22X-4 Elite of trying these (rare as unicorn tears) MOD puck & Bi metallic centre drive system.

View attachment 11050

You can't see very clearly from this, but the 'pucks' (the little orange parts) are essentially pin cushions or 'blades' that fit into a wider output slot. They reduce friction, wear in the outputs, and facilitate the use of much lighter (softer) driveshafts for upto 50% lower rotating mass. All of which are highly desirable for racing. Only the pucks wear - these are easily replaced. (Provided you have spares! 😅).

In due course, the whole car will be converted over.

View attachment 11051
Less wear, quicker acceleration, less slop.

That being said - all of the above are desirable for custom builds as well, because nobody likes worn out inputs/outputs. It's such a simple concept, which has been implemented for years - why aren't Arrma or Corally jumping on this as standard?
Click to expand...

oh yeah i know those : great idea ! i guess rc manufacturers continue on good old parts. which is ok for me, as long as it is durable !
 
stephane z said:
what corally steel parts do typically break ? on my asuga i bent the chassis, the shock towers, the center brace... but transmission is doing good so far, 6s 4274 power only
Click to expand...
The kind of bashing you do those parts are typical failures, adu do parts braces towers etc at reasonable prices but you’ve made you’re own chassis already. Adu also had another chassis for Asuga which changed layout & done away with the side guards but it hasn’t been available for a while, I messaged adu about they said maybe back in stock next month. The kagama/shiroi chassis & bracing system on them has been probably the best on a rtr.

I just found this on AliExpress: ￡39.00 | Aluminum 7075 Upper /Lower Chassis Brace +Center Chassis Brace for Team Corally 1/7 ASUGA XLR6S rc toy car parts
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExV1Yd6

IMG_9315.webp


IMG_9314.webp


IMG_9313.webp
 
that CNC chassis is impressive ! some folks turned their asuga into missiles !! must be fun to do speed bashing
i always choose the lighter system, i run in a not so big area : lighter makes the car also more durable when crashing. and transmission says thank you too
 
stephane z said:
i recognized the weird colour ! i got a xray xt8 truggy and indeed, it is a good steel i think. i actually have more often trouble with suspension arms and chassis, what ever the brand !
Click to expand...
No surprise given your flight patterns and elavation! The arms are some of the easiest components to replace. These machines take so much abuse and something has to “give” when the laws of physics are being violated, LOL.
As to the spring steel, it sure does hold up well IMO. I have a 2007 Xray buggy that’s loaded with the Hudy steel parts, I’m blown away at how durable the parts are. I’ve only broken one front upper camber link in the 10+ years I’ve owned it.
Mind you I’m not jumping 30’ up or quad backflipping. Wear resistance is the most impressive aspect of the Hudy and TC spring steel parts for me.
I feel the TC spring steel parts are probably just as good as the Hudy parts, probably the same supplier, and easily better than anything Arrma or TRX makes.
 
Horatio said:
That's what happens if you insist on releasing 'new' rigs each year. 😅
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Yeah, it’s pretty comical how they release new models just about every year. I know there have certainly been improvements over the years in these things, but I believe an Xray from 10 or even 20 years ago will make lap times that are pretty comparable to the latest machines. If not, one could pretty easily adopt the modern parts to a legacy platform to compensate.
 
Horatio said:
On that subject, I have the luxury on my 22X-4 Elite of trying these (rare as unicorn tears) MOD puck & Bi metallic centre drive system.

View attachment 11050

You can't see very clearly from this, but the 'pucks' (the little orange parts) are essentially pin cushions or 'blades' that fit into a wider output slot. They reduce friction, wear in the outputs, and facilitate the use of much lighter (softer) driveshafts for upto 50% lower rotating mass. All of which are highly desirable for racing. Only the pucks wear - these are easily replaced. (Provided you have spares! 😅).

In due course, the whole car will be converted over.

View attachment 11051
Less wear, quicker acceleration, less slop.

That being said - all of the above are desirable for custom builds as well, because nobody likes worn out inputs/outputs. It's such a simple concept, which has been implemented for years - why aren't Arrma or Corally jumping on this as standard?
Click to expand...
Hey, those won't work.. they're Made in USA!!;)🤣
 
Horatio said:
The old black input/outdrive wear rapidly, as do the black dogbones. This is largely down to weird and wonderful centre drive angles though.

The HD 'spring steel' items are much harder wearing.
Click to expand...
My Hobao Hyper GTB has a similar drive angle and yet the cups have not worn I wonder what the difference is?
 
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