Asuga homemade chassis + new layout

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stephane z

stephane z

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Hi ! i wanted a better durability and balance for my ASUGA so here's what i made :
- homemade 4mm 7075 chassis
- straight drive line
- 2 x 3s lipo
- homemade motor mount on the left for a better left/right balance
- homemade shocktowers
- homemade 10mm nylon wing mount
- hobao wing
- 10mm high quality steel brace
- hobao MTX monster truck arms rear

it jumps much more better like that and now i love my ASUGA !
waiting for new tires

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stephane z said:
Hi ! i wanted a better durability and balance for my ASUGA so here's what i made :
- homemade 4mm 7075 chassis
- straight drive line
- 2 x 3s lipo
- homemade motor mount on the left for a better left/right balance
- homemade shocktowers
- homemade 10mm nylon wing mount
- hobao wing
- 10mm high quality steel brace
- hobao MTX monster truck arms rear

it jumps much more better like that and now i love my ASUGA !
waiting for new tires

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Can’t wait to see some content of it. picked up an Asuga myself recently intend on changing the layout myself to a dual pack setup but on Kronos chassis

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Horatio said:
The joy of fabricating a chassis is not lost on me! 😅

I often wondered how your rigs don't end up banana shaped - so this is how! 😎👍
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well after bending many stock chassis and wanting to make my own layout, i decided to make my own chassis : 4 or 5mm 7075 alu, the hardest part being the kick up : i had to weld my own device to bend the chassis : not that i also got to heat the alu before bending it

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stephane z said:
well after bending many stock chassis and wanting to make my own layout, i decided to make my own chassis : 4 or 5mm 7075 alu, the hardest part being the kick up : i had to weld my own device to bend the chassis : not that i also got to heat the alu before bending it

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Wow! That's some rig you made! I made a chassis for my TT MT4 about 15 years ago using .25" 7075-T6, 6.35mm thick. I had a couple coworkers help me put the kick-up in the chassis. We heated the plate and two man-powered it in a large bench vise. It came out really good, never bent that sucker! Where I messed up was not making it wider than stock, though what I made was over double the weight of the factory chassis. I still have the TT MT4, back on a stock chassis plate now, still have the custom chassis as well. Too bad parts are so hard to come buy for the TT stuff these days.
I'm surprised that you're only using one battery strap per battery, IDK if I'd be comfortable with that.
I've watched many of your vids, amazing! Can't wait to see this Asuga in flight!!:cool:
 
The centered driveline is a great idea, I still don't know why TC offsets them soo much, the front driveshafts on my Kronos XTR wear way too fast for my liking. Are the newer TC rigs as far offset? My brother has an Asuga but I've only seen it once or twice in the year and a half since he bought it.. He doesn't come round much anymore. His rigs are all like new vs my "million mile" rigs.. LOL. He lives in the city, I live in the country, so I'm out there every chance I get.
 
stephane z said:
nice stuff ! is the kronos chassis the same length as the asuga one ?
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As horatio mentioned It’s a few mm longer wheelbase 384mm asuga. 388mm Kronos. Not much in it, but length driveshafts I have I think that few mm might make the difference to them fitting in my build. The kagama has the same length wheelbase as Kronos 388mm in an ideal world I would be trying the build on the kagama chassis it doesn’t taper in as much at the rear & is little bit wider than the Kronos & Asuga chassis which are both 120mm kagama 130mm with sideguards it’s same width as Kronos @190mm but Asuga sideguards a little wider it’s about 200mm overall. The kagama chassis has milling on it which makes moving things around on the chassis a bit more challenging which why I’m using Kronos chassis for now but once I get it made & im happy with it I might try putting it on the kagama chassis. There’s a guy on facebook Erik van Ravenstein he makes 7075 /titanium parts for corally Im going to see if he will be able to transfer the layout onto the kagama chassis for me or even just give me a blank chassis plate to do it myself but that will be after Xmas, I have enough parts to start the build for now then when I’m ordering 7075 parts shock towers diff cases etc from him I’ll enquire about the chassis but that I’m nowhere near that stage right now. Some pics of his work

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Nelson.81 said:
As horatio mentioned It’s a few mm longer wheelbase 384mm asuga. 388mm Kronos. Not much in it, but length driveshafts I have I think that few mm might make the difference to them fitting in my build. The kagama has the same length wheelbase as Kronos 388mm in an ideal world I would be trying the build on the kagama chassis it doesn’t taper in as much at the rear & is little bit wider than the Kronos & Asuga chassis which are both 120mm kagama 130mm with sideguards it’s same width as Kronos @190mm but Asuga sideguards a little wider it’s about 200mm overall. The kagama chassis has milling on it which makes moving things around on the chassis a bit more challenging which why I’m using Kronos chassis for now but once I get it made & im happy with it I might try putting it on the kagama chassis. There’s a guy on facebook Erik van Ravenstein he makes 7075 /titanium parts for corally Im going to see if he will be able to transfer the layout onto the kagama chassis for me or even just give me a blank chassis plate to do it myself but that will be after Xmas, I have enough parts to start the build for now then when I’m ordering 7075 parts shock towers diff cases etc from him I’ll enquire about the chassis but that I’m nowhere near that stage right now. Some pics of his work

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wow, very nice parts !! alu spur gear !! how awesome !
 
stephane z said:
wow, very nice parts !! alu spur gear !! how awesome !
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At first I thought no way to an aluminum spur gear, but I suppose it will probably last as long as a steel pinion considering how many more revolutions the pinion spins vs the spur in an average rc.
I know the general consensus is to replace both at the same time but I typically replace two to three pinions to one spur gear. Usually the output cups wear faster than the rest of the differential parts, so I swap the whole lot with parts from kit breakers usually. No shimming of the internals, I just toss the whole thing in the recycle bin. Replace with new. Fixed it.🤷‍♂️
 
stephane z said:
wow, very nice parts !! alu spur gear !! how awesome !
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Yes he makes nice parts at reasonable prices the spur was €45, he’s from the Netherlands he doesn’t advertise his work or have a Facebook page you just have to pm on Facebook and enquire about whatever your interested in. You can see lots use his parts if search his name in the “corally bashers” group on facebook. Here’s a link to one of his own builds a dual motor setup he’s also starting black anodising some parts.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17NZAUWvcK/?

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Nelson.81 said:
Yes he makes nice parts at reasonable prices the spur was €45, he’s from the Netherlands he doesn’t advertise his work or have a Facebook page you just have to pm on Facebook and enquire about whatever your interested in. You can see lots use his parts if search his name in the “corally bashers” group on facebook. Here’s a link to one of his own builds a dual motor setup he’s also starting black anodising some parts.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/17NZAUWvcK/?

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stealth black alu ! thanks for the link. i don't run enough to wear out my RC stuff. but i break stuff !
 
Corally and Arrma center diffs are nearly identical distance from bearing to bearing (less than 0.2 difference) which opens up the possibility of using aftermarket tool steel outdrive cups.
 
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