Kagama So far so good

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Sandracer_NL said:
I'd take a look at the motor bearings as the stock ones tend to fall apart pretty soon. In our bash group one Kuron motor could be fixed with new motor bearings, two other motors were FUBAR (both after about 3 to 5 packs!). The destroyed motors had a bad (burned) smell.
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Gosh that’s not what I wanted to hear so it sounds like either replace the motor ( diff brand ) or upgrade it to 6s
 
I probably have 20 pack runs on mine, nothing hard corn field running and some very small jumps. With what I’ve spent now on the diff cases etc I should have just gone 6s from the beginning it sounds like
 
Maybe it's just a matter of 1 or 2 new motor bearings.🤞Even with a Hobbywing or any other brand motor the stock motor bearings are not bullet proof, especially if you run in dirt or do high speed runs.
The difference usually is that you'll notice something is wrong straight away and can replace the bearings. With the low quality bearing, it falls apart in your motor damaging the inside so much that the motor is basically beyond repair.
I prefer running a 6s car on 4s (bigger pinion etc.) than trying to upgrade a 3s or 4s car to run on 4s or 6s. Sure, the upgrading is fun, but like you said it's more expensive to upgrade all the parts, with the risk there still is a non-upgraded part somewhere that isn't up to the upgraded power.
That being said, apart from my Spark all my 6s cars have upgraded electronics, but still run them on either 4s or 6s.
 
Installed new battery straps today on the Kagama4 much better for the packs I am using. Also saw some complaints on loose body fit, so my fix was very simple installed a thin O-ring around each of the towers they secure really nice once body pins are installed

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Kagama4 back in action new heavy duty rear dog bones installed last night need to stop by the store pick up a few more screws just to make things look proper but it’s play time shortly
 
Huston we have a problem took the Kagama4 out for a test run and noticed an unusual sound seemed coming from the center differential. Just pulled down had extra set of spring steel cups I wanted to throw in and found 2 chipped teeth on the ring gear. Kinda disappointed I upgraded to the TC aluminum already built center differential it barely has any runs on it didn’t expect to see 2 chipped teeth already only good side is I have the original diff so I’m removing the ring gear from it installing on the TC aluminum then guess I should order some spares. You guys know if they offer an upgraded steel ring/pinion gear set. Thanks for the help as always guys

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Sandracer_NL said:
Both Castle and Hobbywing are good brands.
Some prefer the former, others the latter. In general: Castle speedrunning, Hobbywing for basing, but again either can be used.
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Hobbywing combos are unbeatable deals. I have a Max 8 / 4278 combo in my Asuga and I couldn't get an equivalent price for a 6S 150A sensored ESC and motor from anywhere even in the budget aliexpress brands. I paid $200 and if I had gone for the sensorless HW combo it would have been $100
 
shortround9191 said:
Huston we have a problem took the Kagama4 out for a test run and noticed an unusual sound seemed coming from the center differential. Just pulled down had extra set of spring steel cups I wanted to throw in and found 2 chipped teeth on the ring gear. Kinda disappointed I upgraded to the TC aluminum already built center differential it barely has any runs on it didn’t expect to see 2 chipped teeth already only good side is I have the original diff so I’m removing the ring gear from it installing on the TC aluminum then guess I should order some spares. You guys know if they offer an upgraded steel ring/pinion gear set. Thanks for the help as always guys

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Looks like the diff was either shimmed too tight or or too loose or binding after overtightened diff screws. Normally those internal gears will last almost forever.

No upgrades for ring gear or input gear. Since those two will ‘match’ after some running, it’s preferred to replace them both at the same time.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Looks like the diff was either shimmed too tight or or too loose or binding after overtightened diff screws. Normally those internal gears will last almost forever.

No upgrades for ring gear or input gear. Since those two will ‘match’ after some running, it’s preferred to replace them both at the same time.
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This was all factory I hadn’t even serviced it yet. Going to order a new set and go from there
 
shortround9191 said:
This was all factory I hadn’t even serviced it yet. Going to order a new set and go from there
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Strange, TC shimming usually is good out of the box. Did one of the diff bearings develop play, resulting in a wobbly outdrive causing the internal gears to ‘hit’ each other?
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Strange, TC shimming usually is good out of the box. Did one of the diff bearings develop play, resulting in a wobbly outdrive causing the internal gears to ‘hit’ each other?
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Well one thing that was strange is on the pinion gears they have the shim one on each and one side was missing a shim all together. That’s the only thing I saw that looked out of place of course other than the chipped teeth
 
Welp the cheapo Amazon wheels couldn’t hold the power made a nice standard jump boom she was stuck. Walking noticed leaning to the right and what do ya know the wheel is a few inches away. Had the stock wheels but one had an area that came unglued, had some medium CA and used some thinner to clean the old away. This isn’t CA for rubber charging a pack now to see how it hold up. Guess I’m gonna need to learn how to do tires 🛞 next 😞

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