Asuga CVD pin Asuga

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mteehgray

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does anyone have a part # or size for pin to replace the cvd pin in the Asuga? Not about to buy a whole CVD just to replace a pin that somehow disappeared on me. Rest of cvd is fine. Thanks!!
 
C-00180-122 is probably what you're looking for.

And here's a link to the manual. Probably be a good idea to keep it handy. I have the manuals for my Muraco, Shogun and Python; just in case something wacky happens.
 
Actually - my bad - it’s my Kagama not Asuga but still - I’ve looked in my manuals - it does not break down the cvd and part numbers - only shows it as one part #. Just need the pin.
 
Hrmm...that's odd. All mine are broken down into separate parts.



Edit: just to be sure, this is the pin for the stub axle, yes? Or are you talking about the pin that goes in the shaft on the cup side?

and here's the Kagama manual. If it's the pin on the stub axle side, the Asuga and the Kagama use the same pin. As does the Shogun, Muraco and Python.
 
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Hmm. I wonder if they changed it on the newer Asuga and Kagama? Trying to avoid pulling the other side apart to measure - I had to apply quite a bit of heat to get the hex pin/hub off. Thanks for your help!!
 
Not a problem! Not to sure on the newer versions, but the manuals I accessed from Corally for the Asuga and the Kagama show that they are indeed the same part number. I'm not too sure why you would need heat to remove the pin (unless the loctite happened to leak in there somewhere). When I removed mine it needed a little bit of coaxing with a tap and hammer, but I attributed that to the build up of dirt and debri.
 
I think you and I are talking about 2 different things - I need the pin inside the cvd axle that allows it to rotate. c-00180-341 for the whole part is all they give ya. No breakdown to see the pin.

IMG_5869.webp
 
Gotcha. I had a feeling it might have been that. Those are usually part of the assembly; they're a press fit. I suppose you can mic out the measurement and find another one, but that would also require you heating up the cvd and pressing in the new pin.

You may need a couple mil bigger to account for the wear in the cvd. Might be a little less stressful to get a new part.
 
If I remember I'll measure one tomorrow, I've got a few kicking around from swapping the short ends onto long shafts when converting my buggies to long arm, they're not press fit, simply held in by the spring that wraps around them, it sucks they don't sell them separately considering it's an easy part to replace
 
Yeh right. The funny thing is - I have no clue how it came out on the run. No jumps - just lost traction in the one wheel.. after disassembly I found the spring retainer still there - no damage whatsoever around the area, hole wasn’t damaged where the pin was or anything…. I’m mystified how it even came up missing…. Thx again
 
mteehgray said:
Yeh right. The funny thing is - I have no clue how it came out on the run. No jumps - just lost traction in the one wheel.. after disassembly I found the spring retainer still there - no damage whatsoever around the area, hole wasn’t damaged where the pin was or anything…. I’m mystified how it even came up missing…. Thx again
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If I had to guess I'd say it probably sheared then spit the small chunks out, I know a few others on here have mentioned breaking them as well
 
Oooohh....now I get it. It's not the hub piece or the end at the diff cup. It's the one that connects to the axle to the stub. Roger.

Best bet is to mic it out and search for a same dimension pin.
 
It'll probably be a metric silver steel hardened dowel pin. Once you've got the dimensions, they're fairly easy to find from the tool suppliers.
The likes of Mugen, Tekno RC sell various sizes so you might find them in your local RC shop.
In a pinch, the shank of a drill bit cut to length will get you back bashing.

Don't get 304 / 316 pins from Amazon, they're waaaaay too soft.
 
mteehgray said:
Yeh right. The funny thing is - I have no clue how it came out on the run. No jumps - just lost traction in the one wheel.. after disassembly I found the spring retainer still there - no damage whatsoever around the area, hole wasn’t damaged where the pin was or anything…. I’m mystified how it even came up missing…. Thx again
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This has been happening on my 6s Kagama. I'm guessing the pins snap. I lose one about every 10 packs. The pin is missing, and the spring retainer is still in place.
I really wish we could buy the pins, because the rest of the CVD is fine. What a waste of money and swiss spring steel.
I can't find the pin for sale. Just the whole dam* CVD.
I desperately need to find an aftermarket solution. My grub screws are getting stubborn, stripping, and I keep having to replace CVDs, fiddling with the grub screws each time. I had to put a soldering iron tip in the grub screw head for 10 minutes last time (my soldering iron sucks, it's only about 200 Celsius)

This is driving me nuts because I don't jump my truck, I'm not using big heavy tires. I don't know what's causing it. I've bought 3 CVDs in like 4 months.
 
Jeffwazz said:
It'll probably be a metric silver steel hardened dowel pin. Once you've got the dimensions, they're fairly easy to find from the tool suppliers.
The likes of Mugen, Tekno RC sell various sizes so you might find them in your local RC shop.
In a pinch, the shank of a drill bit cut to length will get you back bashing.

Don't get 304 / 316 pins from Amazon, they're waaaaay too soft.
Click to expand...
I will check these things out. I'm having pain issues as well. No local RC shop within 90 miles from me. I'll look for Tekno ones online because I use Tekno pinions and they're excellent. Thanks for the tip.
 
AngrySection8 said:
Here ya go, I did check out of curiosity and the pins that go through the wheel hex's are the same diameter just around 3mm longer so a guy could always trim one of those down to work

View attachment 5410

View attachment 5411
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Thanks a million. I need to buy about 20 of these things and this measurement helps a lot. Big thanks. I've been having trouble with my grub screws stripping, so I don't want to disassemble my intact CVD to measure it.
I'm actually not touching any of those grub screws until I get my MIP bits, because I had to super LocTite (lots of blue 242) the grub screws because my 180-329 (red thing) keeps losing those pins.
I swear, pins are out to make me go nuts.
I don't know what I did to p**s them off, but grub screws and pins are my problem lately.
If only I'd bought MIP bits from the start. I didn't save any money buying cheap bits and ruining $20 parts (CVD) by stripping recessed grub screws. 🤣
Thanks again.
 
Trucking in space said:
Thanks a million. I need to buy about 20 of these things and this measurement helps a lot. Big thanks. I've been having trouble with my grub screws stripping, so I don't want to disassemble my intact CVD to measure it.
I'm actually not touching any of those grub screws until I get my MIP bits, because I had to super LocTite (lots of blue 242) the grub screws because my 180-329 (red thing) keeps losing those pins.
I swear, pins are out to make me go nuts.
I don't know what I did to p**s them off, but grub screws and pins are my problem lately.
If only I'd bought MIP bits from the start. I didn't save any money buying cheap bits and ruining $20 parts (CVD) by stripping recessed grub screws. 🤣
Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Screenshot_20241206-162554~2.webp
 
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