Asuga CVD pin Asuga

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mteehgray

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does anyone have a part # or size for pin to replace the cvd pin in the Asuga? Not about to buy a whole CVD just to replace a pin that somehow disappeared on me. Rest of cvd is fine. Thanks!!
 
C-00180-122 is probably what you're looking for.

And here's a link to the manual. Probably be a good idea to keep it handy. I have the manuals for my Muraco, Shogun and Python; just in case something wacky happens.
 
Actually - my bad - it’s my Kagama not Asuga but still - I’ve looked in my manuals - it does not break down the cvd and part numbers - only shows it as one part #. Just need the pin.
 
Hrmm...that's odd. All mine are broken down into separate parts.



Edit: just to be sure, this is the pin for the stub axle, yes? Or are you talking about the pin that goes in the shaft on the cup side?

and here's the Kagama manual. If it's the pin on the stub axle side, the Asuga and the Kagama use the same pin. As does the Shogun, Muraco and Python.
 
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Hmm. I wonder if they changed it on the newer Asuga and Kagama? Trying to avoid pulling the other side apart to measure - I had to apply quite a bit of heat to get the hex pin/hub off. Thanks for your help!!
 
Not a problem! Not to sure on the newer versions, but the manuals I accessed from Corally for the Asuga and the Kagama show that they are indeed the same part number. I'm not too sure why you would need heat to remove the pin (unless the loctite happened to leak in there somewhere). When I removed mine it needed a little bit of coaxing with a tap and hammer, but I attributed that to the build up of dirt and debri.
 
I think you and I are talking about 2 different things - I need the pin inside the cvd axle that allows it to rotate. c-00180-341 for the whole part is all they give ya. No breakdown to see the pin.

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Gotcha. I had a feeling it might have been that. Those are usually part of the assembly; they're a press fit. I suppose you can mic out the measurement and find another one, but that would also require you heating up the cvd and pressing in the new pin.

You may need a couple mil bigger to account for the wear in the cvd. Might be a little less stressful to get a new part.
 
If I remember I'll measure one tomorrow, I've got a few kicking around from swapping the short ends onto long shafts when converting my buggies to long arm, they're not press fit, simply held in by the spring that wraps around them, it sucks they don't sell them separately considering it's an easy part to replace
 
Yeh right. The funny thing is - I have no clue how it came out on the run. No jumps - just lost traction in the one wheel.. after disassembly I found the spring retainer still there - no damage whatsoever around the area, hole wasn’t damaged where the pin was or anything…. I’m mystified how it even came up missing…. Thx again
 
Yeh right. The funny thing is - I have no clue how it came out on the run. No jumps - just lost traction in the one wheel.. after disassembly I found the spring retainer still there - no damage whatsoever around the area, hole wasn’t damaged where the pin was or anything…. I’m mystified how it even came up missing…. Thx again
If I had to guess I'd say it probably sheared then spit the small chunks out, I know a few others on here have mentioned breaking them as well
 
Oooohh....now I get it. It's not the hub piece or the end at the diff cup. It's the one that connects to the axle to the stub. Roger.

Best bet is to mic it out and search for a same dimension pin.
 
It'll probably be a metric silver steel hardened dowel pin. Once you've got the dimensions, they're fairly easy to find from the tool suppliers.
The likes of Mugen, Tekno RC sell various sizes so you might find them in your local RC shop.
In a pinch, the shank of a drill bit cut to length will get you back bashing.

Don't get 304 / 316 pins from Amazon, they're waaaaay too soft.
 
Here ya go, I did check out of curiosity and the pins that go through the wheel hex's are the same diameter just around 3mm longer so a guy could always trim one of those down to work

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