Worx WX242L on sale for $30 USD

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Atomic Skull

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https://www.amazon.com/WORX-Screwdriver-30-Piece-Accessory-WX242L/dp/B0DV3XNC3C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

R/C-centric review (not mine I just found it on youtube)


The great thing about this screwdriver is it's soft clutch, at setting 1 you can actually stop it with your fingers and it also has a cutoff when the clutch trips so it doesn't do the "impact wrench" effect and over tighten the screw when it reaches the end.

EDIT there are still things you should hand tighten like "gummy" plastics or shallow screws in hard plastic for those I use setting 1 and then finish tightening by hand.
 
If I can’t rip the threads out with my Milwaukee m12 screwdriver, then how will I perfect repairing threads?
My understanding is that a cutoff clutch is seen as a "scrub feature" in professional electric screwdrivers i.e. somthing only non-professionals want and that serious users want it to keep going after the clutch trips.
 
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I like my Milwaukee electric screwdriver, but it will ruin some threads even on the lowest setting. I tend to slow down and when I hear the motor rom drop, let off.

I bought this WORX. If it’s better, great. If not, it’ll still be useful in my rc “go” bag.
 
I like my Milwaukee electric screwdriver, but it will ruin some threads even on the lowest setting. I tend to slow down and when I hear the motor rom drop, let off.

I bought this WORX. If it’s better, great. If not, it’ll still be useful in my rc “go” bag.
Best practice for soft plastics is to use setting 1 and finish tightening by hand or with a torque control screwdriver. For aluminum I use setting 4 to tighten and for hard plastics I use setting 3 except for a few deep holes where the clutch will trip before it reaches the end like the chassis braces where I also use 4.
 
I like the WORX. It does not have a speed control like my more poweful milwaukee, but it does not need it. It is slow enough that you can back off right before the screw hits bottom and you don't really want to be ramming screws into plastic fast as it melts the plastic making the threads easier to pull out. So, like you said, lowest torque setting, run all the screws in an assembly down on that, then go around and finish tightening after the plastic has time to cool.

The light is nice, it aims on the actual area you are working which is a glaring flaw on many electric tools. Its compact, so great for my field bag. Only 2 of the 30 or so included bits will work for a corally RC. People should be using high quality bits like MIP or similar anyways, especially for 2.5mm button heads which are popular on the corallys.
 
I like the WORX. It does not have a speed control like my more poweful milwaukee, but it does not need it. It is slow enough that you can back off right before the screw hits bottom and you don't really want to be ramming screws into plastic fast as it melts the plastic making the threads easier to pull out. So, like you said, lowest torque setting, run all the screws in an assembly down on that, then go around and finish tightening after the plastic has time to cool.

The light is nice, it aims on the actual area you are working which is a glaring flaw on many electric tools. Its compact, so great for my field bag. Only 2 of the 30 or so included bits will work for a corally RC. People should be using high quality bits like MIP or similar anyways, especially for 2.5mm button heads which are popular on the corallys.
I always replace the button heads with cap heads as I go unless there is a clearance issue.
 
Picked one these up myself along with tworks hex tip set see how long they last but come in a nice little handy case.

I just found this on AliExpress: | Original T works TT-079 T-Work's Power Tool Hex Tips(1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3mm) Rc Tool
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQDk82y

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