Wobbly wheels

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bigshrek666

bigshrek666

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Guys do any of you have wobbly wheels when fitted to your cars?

Ive fitted the skeeter wheels, the standard asuga wheels and the FTX DR8 wheels to my asuga and you can wobble each one around no matter how tight I do the nut up.
Is this normal?
 
Usually there is a little bit of wobble. This can be due to a bit a play in the wheel hex (can be minimized by wheel hex shimming), play in the wheel hub (can be minimized by wheel hub shimming), play in the steering link can be minimized by adding a shim around the metal ball joint).
Sometimes also there can a minimal bit of play in the servo allowing a bit of wobble.

If you wobble the wheel by hand you should be able to see where there is play. A little bit of wobble is normal for a basher, but try and see if you can reduce the amount of wobble by adding shims of tightening screws/nuts.
 
Sandracer_NL said:
Usually there is a little bit of wobble. This can be due to a bit a play in the wheel hex (can be minimized by wheel hex shimming), play in the wheel hub (can be minimized by wheel hub shimming), play in the steering link can be minimized by adding a shim around the metal ball joint).
Sometimes also there can a minimal bit of play in the servo allowing a bit of wobble.

If you wobble the wheel by hand you should be able to see where there is play. A little bit of wobble is normal for a basher, but try and see if you can reduce the amount of wobble by adding shims of tightening screws/nuts.
Click to expand...
Thanks bro
There is no movement in any of the steering/hubs etc its wobbly on the hex itself, almost like the wheel hex is a little too big. If I can add a video later I will.
 
They all get some slop over time, the little lip on the inside of the hex adaptor wears down also the play in the bearings adds to it.

TC come with 1 shim inside the hubs behind the hub bearings but you can always add more to take out the slop

Shim size is : - 13x16x0.2mm or 13x16x0.1mm

I get a mix of both and add where they are needed to take out slop on the wheels but if the hex pin is too tight after you pop it in you will overload the bearing and shorten the poor bearings life, I normally add shims until the hex pin feels tight by hand as you push it in , if you have to hammer the pin in its got too many shims 😅 .
 
Partydaz said:
They all get some slop over time, the little lip on the inside of the hex adaptor wears down also the play in the bearings adds to it.

TC come with 1 shim inside the hubs behind the hub bearings but you can always add more to take out the slop

Shim size is : - 13x16x0.2mm or 13x16x0.1mm

I get a mix of both and add where they are needed to take out slop on the wheels but if the hex pin is too tight after you pop it in you will overload the bearing and shorten the poor bearings life, I normally add shims until the hex pin feels tight by hand as you push it in , if you have to hammer the pin in its got too many shims 😅 .
Click to expand...
Mine came with 2 shims behind the bearing, both sides
 
Partydaz said:
They all get some slop over time, the little lip on the inside of the hex adaptor wears down also the play in the bearings adds to it.

TC come with 1 shim inside the hubs behind the hub bearings but you can always add more to take out the slop

Shim size is : - 13x16x0.2mm or 13x16x0.1mm

I get a mix of both and add where they are needed to take out slop on the wheels but if the hex pin is too tight after you pop it in you will overload the bearing and shorten the poor bearings life, I normally add shims until the hex pin feels tight by hand as you push it in , if you have to hammer the pin in its got too many shims 😅 .
Click to expand...
Could I run it without a shim in the rear hub? Like I say mine came with 2 shims in and the hex pin is extremely tight to get in/out.
 
The wheel nuts don't look like they are clamping the wheels at all 😬 , try it with the stock wheel nuts see if that fixes it.
 
This Up Here GIF by Chord Overstreet
 
Shim the wheel bearings, do not overdo it or you will damage the bearings. As the bearings wear it will get loose again and require more shim. When it finally gives out back to square one again with the shimming. ALWAYS start over with shimming with a new bearings because it won't be as worn and the tolerances also vary from bearing to bearing. Brand new wheel bearings almost always need less or no shimming at first.
 
bigshrek666 said:
Could I run it without a shim in the rear hub? Like I say mine came with 2 shims in and the hex pin is extremely tight to get in/out.
Click to expand...
Corally has been shipping new vehicles with too much shimming on the wheel bearings, I noticed that on my Shiroi last year. I had to completely replace all the bearings right out of the box because of this. They were all over shimmed and it brinelled the bearings making them all gritty.
 
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That's the first time I've ever heard another human being used the word brinelled. 🫡👍🏼👏🏼
 
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