Kronos XTR Will droop screws eventually puncture through the chassis?

[The Stig]

Installed the Tekno screws and I'm pretty sure this will solve the problem! It might still mark the chassis etc but it will not puncture through it like the grub screws where doing. All droop screws should be like this!
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Forgot to mention, the screws need to be installed from the bottom obviously, as opposed to the grub screws which are installed from the top. The simplest way to do this it by removing the shocks at the lower end from the arm, then on the back remove the rear hub and this allows you to remove the dog bones and then you can flex the lower arm upwards to have enough room to put the screw in without having to remove the arms completely or having to separate the front/rear gearbox assembly from the chassis. The front arms is a similar process, but it's easier to remove the upper arms instead of the steering blocks.

Did finally the same! Hope it works

 

[Wallys Rc World]

Right, Dani already did a great job detailing his Droop screws.

Here's the job I did on mine:

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The Avid droop screws I got hold of are 12mm. These can be used front and rear, but the stock sizes are 8mm front and 12mm rear.

At the front with the droop screws all the way in, I set my droop to 124mm each side. (from top of shock to bottom of shock). Out of the box, droop was different from side to side (by 3mm at the front and 2mm at the rear). What can tend to happen is - droop increases as the divot gets bigger.

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Steel grub screws left their mark. At least they were neat little round ones!
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The XTR required the arms to be removed for these Avid titanium droop screws - these did not have hex sockets on the button head side. I don't mind too much, because once fitted, droop adjustment is always made from the top.

The rears were installed and adjusted for 134mm each side. This is where 12mm suddenly seems like a good idea. You need a fair bit more reduction of down travel on the rear shocks on these to attain 134mm.

If the button heads are screwed in all the way as they are on the front, it's actually the piston inside the shock acting as the down stop, not the droop screw.

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After a good blast around on grass today, I'm very happy to report it handles superbly well. I'd recommend those droop settings if you like aggressive off-power steering and yet controllable on power.

I had consistent handling, no rollovers and sensible, accurate lines that even my XT8 would have proud of.

General mud and crud was kept at bay by the dusty motors shroud (highly recommended) and POS mud guards (agricultural but do a great job). If anyone wonders why my kit looks clean, this is why.

That and the fact I insist my wife polishes it for me every day.

PS. Please don't tell my wife I said that last part - she'll burn all my RC's!

So funny lol