Wellbeing Wednesday

[AngrySection8]

True, that OS engine was a game changer for me. The quality of it over even the Taiwan engines was notable..the China engines in the nineties were laughable.

Yep, makes a difference, I typically run the Taiwan sh based engines in the stuff I've replaced- like the savages..force engines are my nemesis! Italian carbs on the savages, between that and finding out what they like for fuel and glow plugs they're a pleasure to run now, the rest of my nitros, well, they look good hanging on the wall

 

[VaporTrail]

I know I'm getting old when I don't have any interest in nitro rc's anymore, LOL. Still cool of course, but I don't miss them TBH. Still have a few tucked away, but highly unlikely they'll ever run again. Electric is just soo easy and powerful.

I don't mind a nitro singing around the track. I don't mind helping myself to some of the fumes either. I won't run them ever again, though.

I had blistered fingers from the Revo pull start, and even when that POS managed to run, it'd always die out at the furthest distance away from me. I'd do the walk of shame, get it started like 4 times out of 10. Then it'd die out again. Asked a friend of mine to tune it, it ran good for a little, then it'd die again. Turns out it needed small adjustments to the needles depending on the time of day. Early morning, noon, later afternoon. And don't get me started on how many plugs I had to buy and how many times the dang engine would lock up.

Hot, irritated, blistered fingers and lighter in the wallet, I nearly golfed it over my roof. Sold both of them for 200 bucks and never looked back. Went down the path of 1/8 conversions. 15 years later getting back into the hobby I still won't get a nitro, don't care what my buddies say. Nope. Not for me.

I still have a lot of love for them but really depends on what it is, my rtr oriented ones I rarely mess with because they never run right on the previous tune, end up spending 20 minutes getting them running half way decent, but I love my savage and the proper setup it has, that ones just as easy as electric, rarely turn a carb needle and when ya do it's a tiny adjustment, that truck just works, that's when they're enjoyable

they do seem enjoyable when they run, I will say that. People have said to me: "it's fun wrenching on them! Don't you like tuning engines?"

Uh, no. No I don't. I've done enough work spending days rebuilding my motorcycle after my crash and wrenching on my ZJ. I'll wrench on my RCs, but that's the necessary evils; shock work, diff work, tuning boards, esc and motor tuning. Fun for me is running my rigs on the track, not wrenching on them. I'll wrench because 1) I have to, and 2) it helps me learn more about the car.

Last time I ran a nitro truck it was my Schumacher Manic, (8th scale, with twin nitro engines linked with a toothed drive belt).
Had to be one of the most frustrating things to get to run well, but when it did, it was flipping awesome
It had it's problems tho, going out with 2 glow starts, cordless drill starter, litre of fuel for about an hour's play.
Of course, that's if you managed to get it started.......
Then when running, flip onto the roof, runs lean if you can't right it in time, plugs destroyed
But it was hilarious, noisy, smelly, and nitro fumes would give me a migraine after a while, so it's just electric for me now!View attachment 5550

I can imagine the sound that thing makes. And I agree: too much nitro fumes does get to me.

 

[Horatio]

I run a Nova Rossi Legend .28 8 port in my Xray XT8. That rig is extremely easy to start off a starter box. One small blip - and it's away.

I run 25% Optifuel Race Mix. It smells nice and the engines like it. It never flames out - until it's out of fuel.

Savage rips - still pulls wheelies - even with long tvps.

XT8 first fire up.

Running in the engine is a bit of a faff. Tuning the carb to run right is a knack that has to be learned. Once you get it though, you never forget - a bit like riding a bike.

 

[Horatio]

I think with nitro cars, there are a number of seemingly very minor things that may result in the car not running at all.

In no particular order:

• Fuel type - changing to a lower nitro/oil percentage with an engine that has already worn in with the perfect piston/sleeve fit - at operational temperature - will result in a cranky engine. They don't like change.
• Sticking brakes - or poor linkage setup - will not help your engine transition from idle to mid revs.
• Clutch shoes/springs. If the clutch shoes drag, or are fitted in the wrong way so as prematurely engage or not disengage will result in an engine that stalls at idle.
• Clutch bearings - take some abuse, but if your clutch keeps getting extremely hot, your clutch bearings will burn off the grease and seize up in no time. Within a tank of fuel. If your bearings do seize, you effectively have no clutch and your engine will stall when you brake and simply won't be able to idle.
• Clutch material type - alloy clutch shoes became the normal choice for pro drivers, with alleged extra 'bite' and extra thick springs so that the clutch only engaged midway up the engine's useful rev range. Turning the throttle into an on/off switch. Coming from a 1/10th electric background, this made no sense to me at all. Alloy shoes coming into contact with the steel clutch bell seemed like a bad idea to me and arguably results in rapid heat build up, loads of clutch maintenance and bearing replacement.

I always had excellent results with the Fioroni Turbo sliding clutches. Not only do they have a much greater surface area, they have much better wear characteristics and don't get anywhere near as hot. They are virtually maintenance free. Bearings last and last. Springs are a million % easier to fit or adjust.

It doesn't surprise me that people get put off by the complications of Nitro, but once you get it nailed - one word: runtime. Splash and dash and you're on your way again! Limiting factor is fuel and receiver batteries.

Nitro cars are not as fast in a straight line, but around a track, it's only very recently I've seen Brushless truggy rigs put in faster lap times than their nitro counterparts - because they're generally heavier and the limiting factor is traction, where more power actually makes things worse from a driving perspective.

For bashing - or wide open spaces - brushless electric is clearly and arguably the most practical, given the ease of use, quietness, speed and reversing/self marshalling.

The only correct thing to do is run what gives you the most fun!

 

[KnowAir]

I think with nitro cars, there are a number of seemingly very minor things that may result in the car not running at all.

In no particular order:

• Fuel type - changing to a lower nitro/oil percentage with an engine that has already worn in with the perfect piston/sleeve fit - at operational temperature - will result in a cranky engine. They don't like change.
• Sticking brakes - or poor linkage setup - will not help your engine transition from idle to mid revs.
• Clutch shoes/springs. If the clutch shoes drag, or are fitted in the wrong way so as prematurely engage or not disengage will result in an engine that stalls at idle.
• Clutch bearings - take some abuse, but if your clutch keeps getting extremely hot, your clutch bearings will burn off the grease and seize up in no time. Within a tank of fuel. If your bearings do seize, you effectively have no clutch and your engine will stall when you brake and simply won't be able to idle.
• Clutch material type - alloy clutch shoes became the normal choice for pro drivers, with alleged extra 'bite' and extra thick springs so that the clutch only engaged midway up the engine's useful rev range. Turning the throttle into an on/off switch. Coming from a 1/10th electric background, this made no sense to me at all. Alloy shoes coming into contact with the steel clutch bell seemed like a bad idea to me and arguably results in rapid heat build up, loads of clutch maintenance and bearing replacement.

View attachment 5553

I always had excellent results with the Fioroni Turbo sliding clutches. Not only do they have a much greater surface area, they have much better wear characteristics and don't get anywhere near as hot. They are virtually maintenance free. Bearings last and last. Springs are a million % easier to fit or adjust.View attachment 5555

It doesn't surprise me that people get put off by the complications of Nitro, but once you get it nailed - one word: runtime. Splash and dash and you're on your way again! Limiting factor is fuel and receiver batteries.

Nitro cars are not as fast in a straight line, but around a track, it's only very recently I've seen Brushless truggy rigs put in faster lap times than their nitro counterparts - because they're generally heavier and the limiting factor is traction, where more power actually makes things worse from a driving perspective.

For bashing - or wide open spaces - brushless electric is clearly and arguably the most practical, given the ease of use, quietness, speed and reversing/self marshalling.

The only correct thing to do is run what gives you the most fun!

Yessir! Run what makes ya happy!!
I think air leaks and engine wear add to tuning frustrations too. With the cheaper motors, it might run decent when cool, then poop once warmed up.. or vice versa..
I don't know where the fuel prices are these days, or where to even get it honestly. Apparently there are actual hobby shops within an hours drive of me.. I just can't be bothered, delivered to my door, for less? Uh, okay.
Last I bought fuel was about 10 years ago, twenty some dollars for Traxxas top fuel (quart).. nah, I'm good with electric.

 

[VaporTrail]

I run a Nova Rossi Legend .28 8 port in my Xray XT8. That rig is extremely easy to start off a starter box. One small blip - and it's away.

I run 25% Optifuel Race Mix. It smells nice and the engines like it. It never flames out - until it's out of fuel.

View attachment 5551
Savage rips - still pulls wheelies - even with long tvps.

View attachment 5552
XT8 first fire up.

Running in the engine is a bit of a faff. Tuning the carb to run right is a knack that has to be learned. Once you get it though, you never forget - a bit like riding a bike.

True...its an acquired feel. But probably one that I won't be acquiring any time soon. I don't have a particular dislike for nitro, I just rather run electric.

I think with nitro cars, there are a number of seemingly very minor things that may result in the car not running at all.

In no particular order:

• Fuel type - changing to a lower nitro/oil percentage with an engine that has already worn in with the perfect piston/sleeve fit - at operational temperature - will result in a cranky engine. They don't like change.
• Sticking brakes - or poor linkage setup - will not help your engine transition from idle to mid revs.
• Clutch shoes/springs. If the clutch shoes drag, or are fitted in the wrong way so as prematurely engage or not disengage will result in an engine that stalls at idle.
• Clutch bearings - take some abuse, but if your clutch keeps getting extremely hot, your clutch bearings will burn off the grease and seize up in no time. Within a tank of fuel. If your bearings do seize, you effectively have no clutch and your engine will stall when you brake and simply won't be able to idle.
• Clutch material type - alloy clutch shoes became the normal choice for pro drivers, with alleged extra 'bite' and extra thick springs so that the clutch only engaged midway up the engine's useful rev range. Turning the throttle into an on/off switch. Coming from a 1/10th electric background, this made no sense to me at all. Alloy shoes coming into contact with the steel clutch bell seemed like a bad idea to me and arguably results in rapid heat build up, loads of clutch maintenance and bearing replacement.

View attachment 5553

I always had excellent results with the Fioroni Turbo sliding clutches. Not only do they have a much greater surface area, they have much better wear characteristics and don't get anywhere near as hot. They are virtually maintenance free. Bearings last and last. Springs are a million % easier to fit or adjust.View attachment 5555

It doesn't surprise me that people get put off by the complications of Nitro, but once you get it nailed - one word: runtime. Splash and dash and you're on your way again! Limiting factor is fuel and receiver batteries.

Nitro cars are not as fast in a straight line, but around a track, it's only very recently I've seen Brushless truggy rigs put in faster lap times than their nitro counterparts - because they're generally heavier and the limiting factor is traction, where more power actually makes things worse from a driving perspective.

For bashing - or wide open spaces - brushless electric is clearly and arguably the most practical, given the ease of use, quietness, speed and reversing/self marshalling.

The only correct thing to do is run what gives you the most fun!

Aye...Plenty points I agree on with you. Nitro can be complicated to learn, but in all honesty I don't think its that much more complicated than electric. Running an effective electric setup can be quite involved, its just that most times people will run a setup that is either copied from a setup sheet or from a FB group, or even from the racers at their particular track. Going through trial and error to achieve that setup on your own can be quite the task. Even for myself, I end up using shortcuts.

As for lap times, when I first came out with my converted Jammin in 08, I gave the field a rather good bashing. It was bordering on unfair for the nitros. That all came to a screeching halt when my mentor came out the next race. He obliterated me with his Jammin. I had the speed, but he soundly demolished me through consistent driving. Talk about a humbling experience.

Fast forward to today and he's still kicking my butt.

 

[VaporTrail]

Yessir! Run what makes ya happy!!
I think air leaks and engine wear add to tuning frustrations too. With the cheaper motors, it might run decent when cool, then poop once warmed up.. or vice versa..
I don't know where the fuel prices are these days, or where to even get it honestly. Apparently there are actual hobby shops within an hours drive of me.. I just can't be bothered, delivered to my door, for less? Uh, okay.
Last I bought fuel was about 10 years ago, twenty some dollars for Traxxas top fuel (quart).. nah, I'm good with electric.

Maybe that was the case with the Traxxas motors. Poop before they warm up, and poop after it runs for a while.

I'm pretty sure that if I got all the proper tools and read up enough on tuning I could get it done. Its just that I probably wouldn't see it as a fun endeavor. I do enough wrenching on the full scale vehicles so that pretty much fills the need to wrench. Same thing with the crawlers; I have a ZJ that I've worked on and that I take trailing. Doing it on a 1/10 scale doesn't give me any particular chubbies.

 

[KnowAir]

Maybe that was the case with the Traxxas motors. Poop before they warm up, and poop after it runs for a while.

I'm pretty sure that if I got all the proper tools and read up enough on tuning I could get it done. Its just that I probably wouldn't see it as a fun endeavor. I do enough wrenching on the full scale vehicles so that pretty much fills the need to wrench. Same thing with the crawlers; I have a ZJ that I've worked on and that I take trailing. Doing it on a 1/10 scale doesn't give me any particular chubbies.

I hear that, working on 1:1 autos that is.. as a poor man, I'm always working on some rusty azz POS! I just replaced the front subframe on my 06 Scion xb..been rotted out basically since I bought it 3 years ago, got so bad I was nervous about driving it any more. Lower control arm was flapping around. That was a good time replacing that subframe.. LOL. I rather enjoy working on rc's by comparison to say trying to trick a computer into thinking a catylitic converter is still good so I can pass an annual inspection.

 

[VaporTrail]

Yikes. Yeah, a flopping control arm would probably cause a couple of chunks of the seat to be ripped out. At least for me. My first experience with the dreaded "death wobble" on my jeep happened at 6 in the morning as I was coming home from doing laundry. I was sleepy and just cruising it home...until I hit that pothole and my front end started wobbling and making the steering wheel jerk left and right. Inside the cab it almost sounded like the front end was going to vibrate itself apart. Needless to say, I was no longer sleepy after I got that under control.

Aye. Working on RCs can be less...eye-opening.