Muraco Used Muraco, worth it?

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Jeo79

Jeo79

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Corally RC's
  1. Muraco
Found a used RTR Muraco going for a decent price, and prefer the look of the Muraco / Shogun over the Kagama. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile getting it then upgrading as needed as a winter project?

In my mind it would need

- Chassis Brace Kit Xtre
- HD steering blocks
- Alloy rear gear box case

Would it need anything else?
 
I just bought one last month. It came with the chassis brace kit installed and a set of HD steering blocks in the box. Still running the non-HD steering blocks and so far haven’t had the issue of the pivot balls popping out.
I installed front and rear skid plates and a replaced the stock plastic wing washer with the upgraded carbon version as the plastic one broke after a few runs.
I’m pretty sure you’ll like it!😉
 
Good find!!! This one doesn't have the HD parts but good to see it doesn't have to have them.

Plus point is i've noticed that parts from ebay breakers are cheaper for Corally than makes like Arrma
 
Bit the bullet and purchased the Muraco. Should be here mid week, looks in great condition. It comes with Shogun bodyshell, Katar tyres and a few spares.

Already ordering upgrades 😁

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Jeo79 said:
Bit the bullet and purchased the Muraco. Should be here mid week, looks in great condition. It comes with Shogun bodyshell, Katar tyres and a few spares.

Already ordering upgrades 😁

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Looks brand new, how do people keep there chassis so clean, I mean I only run on grass mainly and my still comes home scrapes & scuffs 🤷😂. Few changes been made to it already the skid plates & tie rods aren’t stock, those tie rod ends look very beefy. I would probably upgrade the hinge pin holders(abcd blocks) & shock towers before the diff cases. Like the katars considering them or method.rc terraforms for my Kronos truggy build. Stock transmitters aren’t great maybe want swap that out at some point but great looking rig have fun & enjoy
 
Nelson.81 said:
Looks brand new, how do people keep there chassis so clean, I mean I only run on grass mainly and my still comes home scrapes & scuffs 🤷😂. Few changes been made to it already the skid plates & tie rods aren’t stock, those tie rod ends look very beefy. I would probably upgrade the hinge pin holders(abcd blocks) & shock towers before the diff cases. Like the katars considering them or method.rc terraforms for my Kronos truggy build. Stock transmitters aren’t great maybe want swap that out at some point but great looking rig have fun & enjoy
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Guy who owned it only ran it once then kept it as a shelf queen. I think he has quote a few cars so is off loading a few

Will probably swap in my Noble keep the stock radio as a spare. Towers and hinge pin holders added to the list 🫡

Cost of upgrades is currently higher then cost of car so I may juts replace as things break
 
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Jeo79 said:
Guy who owned it only ran it once then kept it as a shelf queen. I think he has quote a few cars so is off loading a few

Will probably swap in my Noble keep the stock radio as a spare. Towers and hinge pin holders added to the list 🫡

Cost of upgrades is currently higher thenn cost of car so I may juts replace as things break
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That’s the way to do it, probably find most bits you’ll need cheaper at an rc breaker like RCSpares they’ll have most bits your looking for.
https://www.rcspares.com/
 
Jeo79 said:
Randomly just bought some mudguards from there. They have quite a few Corally spares
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Got mine there too set kagama upper arms also for my Kronos, if you don’t have breakages I’d say the drive cups will be the 1st thing needs replacing can wear out quickly , unfortunately muraco doesn’t come with the spring steel ones later models do.
 
Nelson.81 said:
Got mine there too set kagama upper arms also for my Kronos, if you don’t have breakages I’d say the drive cups will be the 1st thing needs replacing can wear out quickly , unfortunately muraco doesn’t come with the spring steel ones later models do.
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I bought some cups for centre diff, may get the remaining cups next month. Do Kagama arms fit the Kronos/Shogun/Muraco and are they stronger?

She arrived today and must say the seller was spot on when he said its in good condition, it looks brand new 😁

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Jeo79 said:
Yea those look good. Good to know they fit to, if mine ever break.

What hinge pin holders are those?
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The made by a guy called Erik van Ravenstein you’ll find him on Facebook on corally bashers group. Just drop him a pm if interested in any his parts does 7075 & titanium bits at good prices, not cheap but pay for quality. Also have the adu ones on my buggy bit cheaper but spot on for price. His diff mount a bit of a pain will add because it doesn’t split in 2 pieces like corally one have to unscrew from below to remove diff makes it pain & bit of tight fit getting driveshafts in, prefer the corally 7075 one.

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Nelson.81 said:
The made by a guy called Erik van Ravenstein you’ll find him on Facebook on corally bashers group. Just drop him a pm if interested in any his parts does 7075 & titanium bits at good prices, not cheap but pay for quality. Also have the adu ones on my buggy bit cheaper but spot on for price. His diff mount a bit of a pain will add because it doesn’t split in 2 pieces like corally one have to unscrew from below to remove diff makes it pain & bit of tight fit getting driveshafts in, prefer the corally
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Have contacted him to order the hinge holders and titanium ackerman.

Do we need to retain that little bit that the bumper attaches to?

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The 'bumper' insert is required, because otherwise there's going to be a gap underneath the housing.

It's taken me til now to figure out why they designed it that way.

It's so the housing can be more easily aligned during assembly/reassembly. You fit the insert at the end of the chassis first. Mate the housing to it - and in theory, the holes should be perfectly aligned ready for the CS bolts from the underside of the chassis.

I feel very differently about them now, having originally thought what a PITA! 😅
 
Thanks for the tips will change my order 👍
 
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