Kronos XTR Torox 185 Wiring

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BrettOlbrys

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Corally RC's
  1. Kronos XTR
Good morning. It appears there was a sharp piece of the chassis that has punctured the wiring on my Torox 185. It is the wiring leading to the on/off switch and it's roughly halfway between the controller and the receiver.

It didn't appear to be hurting the operation of my XTR, so should I leave it along and wrap it with electrical tape OR cut that small piece out and solder the wires?

Thanks

Brett

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Just my opinion, but if it was mine, I would probably just replace the wires or order a new prewired switch if you can find one. If you’re not wanting to wait or spend 💰, then just solder them.

To me, it’s a lot faster to replace vs cutting out the damaged section and soldering them back together, heat shrinking the wires then heat shrinking the entire repair. You can run it as is, but you do risk the chance of a failure and there’s enough power in 4S and 6S lipo batteries to do some real damage.
 
Just my opinion, but if it was mine, I would probably just replace the wires or order a new prewired switch if you can find one. If you’re not wanting to wait or spend 💰, then just solder them.

To me, it’s a lot faster to replace vs cutting out the damaged section and soldering them back together, heat shrinking the wires then heat shrinking the entire repair. You can run it as is, but you do risk the chance of a failure and there’s enough power in 4S and 6S lipo batteries to do some real damage.
Isn't the pre-wired switch Internal to the Torox 185, meaning, I assume it is soldered to the board if I were to take it apart?

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Just my opinion, but if it was mine, I would probably just replace the wires or order a new prewired switch if you can find one. If you’re not wanting to wait or spend 💰, then just solder them.

To me, it’s a lot faster to replace vs cutting out the damaged section and soldering them back together, heat shrinking the wires then heat shrinking the entire repair. You can run it as is, but you do risk the chance of a failure and there’s enough power in 4S and 6S lipo batteries to do some real damage.

I'm gonna agree with CCB on this one. Best to cut out the damaged part, solder the wires back together and then use heat shrink to protect it. I'd also reroute the wire in a different area; I normally don't like my wires sitting underneath stuff. I prefer to have them tucked on the side of the tub as much as possible.
 
From the pic, it looks like that's the wire that goes from the ESC to the receiver, not the wire to the switch. If it is the wire to the receiver, then the suggestions for cutting, splicing, and rerouting would apply.
 
Isn't the pre-wired switch Internal to the Torox 185, meaning, I assume it is soldered to the board if I were to take it apart?

View attachment 5711
Looks like that wire was supposed to be routed up through the slot just after the battery tray where the opening is in between the ESC tray and battery tray.. Oopsy.
I often save spent servo leads just for this purpose.. or you could just cut out the bad section and rejoin with solder connections, wrapped with HS tubing..
It's a lesson learned indeed..
IDK what your soldering skills are, but no way I myself am going to try soldering wires to a PCB inside the ESC. I imagine the board is encased in epoxy anyways, so unlikely you can do that.
 
Thank you, but would I be correct that I would need to open the ESC and solder it in place?
Looks like that wire was supposed to be routed up through the slot just after the battery tray where the opening is in between the ESC tray and battery tray.. Oopsy.
I often save spent servo leads just for this purpose.. or you could just cut out the bad section and rejoin with solder connections, wrapped with HS tubing..
It's a lesson learned indeed..
IDK what your soldering skills are, but no way I myself am going to try soldering wires to a PCB inside the ESC. I imagine the board is encased in epoxy anyways, so unlikely you can do that.
Exactly my thought. I'm going to just cut out that part and resolder the wires.
 
Thank you, but would I be correct that I would need to open the ESC and solder it in place?

Exactly my thought. I'm going to just cut out that part and resolder the wires.
I think it's the most sensible solution. I have not taken a Torox esc apart, however, I have opened up "other" rebranded HW esc's, all of them dubbed as "water proof" have always been encased in some type of resin to seal them. I would expect the Torox to be similar. Good luck, hope you get it fixed up soon.
 
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