Tips installing Kuron 825 motor and torox 185 ESC on Sketer

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The Stig said:
Ran a pack 2day. It is absolutely mental on 4s now. Tires where like pancakes. Gonna put my belted ones back on. And i have to change centre diff oil. Atm 100k. Gonna go for 500k. I really love my car now. Not so hot anymore. Cornering is a bit tricky now. Rolls over quicker. Other oil will hopefully help. Its a beast 💪 Will upgrade more as i go. I can advise anyone to change the Esc and motor. It is easy and well worth it. Need 2 learn to drive it again 🤣
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Sweet! Glad to hear. Yeah, the Sketer is a compact layout for that much power. It really is dimensionally the same as a 1/8 buggy. Enjoy!!
 
aaronass said:
What plugs did u use there. That is no solder to the motor. Bullets. I’m returning my esc for warranty. They r solder in now I will cut wires to send it back but I’d rather use that then solder the new one in.

Lol thread isnold
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That's the factory setup, I'm assuming you think your wires are soldered to the esc? If this is accurate they are not, they're just really tight, wiggle and pull, they may fight a bit but they'll come out of the esc
 
AngrySection8 said:
That's the factory setup, I'm assuming you think your wires are soldered to the esc? If this is accurate they are not, they're just really tight, wiggle and pull, they may fight a bit but they'll come out of the esc
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Oh no it’s solder. I’ve been in the game for a min. Lol

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I now should I just cut the wires or heat up solder and take out the motor wires

I asked warranty how do I do it cause I don’t want them saying I voided warranty. Lol
 
aaronass said:
Oh no it’s solder. I’ve been in the game for a min. Lol

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I now should I just cut the wires or heat up solder and take out the motor wires

I asked warranty how do I do it cause I don’t want them saying I voided warranty. Lol
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Nah, that's just the wire soldered to the bullet, you can see the dividing line between the bullet and esc in the pic, just pull and wiggle harder, they're an insanely tight fit, you'll have to trust me on this one
 
AngrySection8 said:
Nah, that's just the wire soldered to the bullet, you can see the dividing line between the bullet and esc in the pic, just pull and wiggle harder, they're an insanely tight fit, you'll have to trust me on this on
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Ok. Sweet. U r the man. Thank u sir

I honestly hate this damn truck. First day I had it on 6s and o reheats and shuts down blew a capacitor
 

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aaronass said:
Ok. Sweet. U r the man. Thank u sir

I honestly hate this damn truck. First day I had it on 6s and o reheats and shuts down blew a capacitor
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Glad you got them out, they can definitely be a hassle to get out. As far as the truck goes, you can't really be too upset with corally, after all it's a hobbywing max8 esc, corally didn't build that part, that said depending how you run I'm sure you'll run into issues down the road with the truck itself, these aren't really hardcore bashers, more focused on speed and handling
 
AngrySection8 said:
Glad you got them out, they can definitely be a hassle to get out. As far as the truck goes, you can't really be too upset with corally, after all it's a hobbywing max8 esc, corally didn't build that part, that said depending how you run I'm sure you'll run into issues down the road with the truck itself, these aren't really hardcore bashers, more focused on speed and handling
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Guess ur right on that part but they have been well aware of the overheat issue for over a year and we r 6 months in to 2023 and u think they would’ve fixed it or at least took it off the shelf. I can’t see how this is fair to the consumer. And a lot of the newer versions I see have capacitors on the wires also. So I’m a lil confused how they do business. It’s Ll about the money fiddlestick the consumer!!!

I literally had the truck for 2 packs. First one was 4s and the second was 6s. And yes I let the motor cool inbetween batteries
 
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