Jambo Tips for some good tyres? Ripped the tyre on first 6s wheelie :D

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rdevalk

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Ouddorp Zuid holland
Corally RC's
  1. Jambo
After 2 months on 4s with my Jambo I got my first run on 6S today and it's mental!
But with the first high speed wheelie the front tyre completely ripped in half.
Does anybody have a tip for some good tyres who can handle the power?

Greets
 
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You could always get some methods, they're belted but surprisingly light weight for belted tires, they hook up good, not the sexiest of tires but ya can't have everything I guess, I did manage to blow the belts on the front tires on 8s in my kronos but it didn't phase the tires still completely usable just the fronts do balloon now, I think they'll handle 6s just fine, as seen in the pic I have them on my jambo now with no complaints

IMG_20230607_063324328.jpg
 
Sounds like some belted tires may be in order.. check out Duratrax/Louise for budget minded tires or Method, Jetko or Proline for higher priced offerings. Each of these companies offer belted tires, I'm sure there are others as well.
 
chuck super thick oil in your centre diff so the fronts don't spin up so bad.
Ok, now I have 100K so I think I'll go 500k then

Sounds like some belted tires may be in order.. check out Duratrax/Louise for budget minded tires or Method, Jetko or Proline for higher priced offerings. Each of these companies offer belted tires, I'm sure there are others as well.
Thank you! I ordered Louise pioneer belted tyres
 
After 2 months on 4s with my Jambo I got my first run on 6S today and it's mental!
But with the first high speed wheelie the front tyre completely ripped in half.
Does anybody have a tip for some good tyres who can handle the power?

Greets
I fitted Proline Badlands Mach 10’s to my Python on Friday and have only used it twice on the playing fields on 6S for about 45 minutes total but no where near the top speed. Only around 40mph when a tyre blew off the rim. I thought these were supposed to be descent tyres. They were well glued on.

F10416F6-DA8B-4FAB-99C6-FE600618D329.jpeg
 
Look - these unbelted tyres don't stand a chance if people are forever ballooning the tyres.

Solutions:

1) Throttle management - especially on 6S, 8S

2) Buy belted tyres. Yes - they're much heavier and also react differently for jumping, but they won't fall to pieces.

3) Thicken up the middle diff. Some are virtually locking them up with silicone ear plugs. Trade off - handling.

4) Compromise and assemble your own choice of unbelted tyres to the wheels, using gaffa/gorilla tape around the inside of the tyre before you fit the inserts.

5) Keep your wheels whole to avoid water getting in. Cover the holes on your wheel if there are any. If water has already got in, neatly drill your tyres to allow the water to get out.

Whilst it might not be of use to tyres blowing up, while you're at it - balance your wheels. Your rig will thank you AND it will also be faster in a straight line for speed runs.
 
Look - these unbelted tyres don't stand a chance if people are forever ballooning the tyres.

Solutions:

1) Throttle management - especially on 6S, 8S

2) Buy belted tyres. Yes - they're much heavier and also react differently for jumping, but they won't fall to pieces.

3) Thicken up the middle diff. Some are virtually locking them up with silicone ear plugs. Trade off - handling.

4) Compromise and assemble your own choice of unbelted tyres to the wheels, using gaffa/gorilla tape around the inside of the tyre before you fit the inserts.

5) Keep your wheels whole to avoid water getting in. Cover the holes on your wheel if there are any. If water has already got in, neatly drill your tyres to allow the water to get out.

Whilst it might not be of use to tyres blowing up, while you're at it - balance your wheels. Your rig will thank you AND it will also be faster in a straight line for speed runs.
I bought proline Mach 10’s and a front one came off the rim. These were pre glued since I have glued them back on I have had no further issues. I have had belted ones a again lost the tread on a front wheel down to the wire. As said 6S+ puts a lot of strain on tyres especially if on grass and they are grippy.
 
I bought proline Mach 10’s and a front one came off the rim. These were pre glued since I have glued them back on I have had no further issues. I have had belted ones a again lost the tread on a front wheel down to the wire. As said 6S+ puts a lot of strain on tyres especially if on grass and they are grippy.
Yes - 6S is 'more than adequate'. I say this as a person that once thought you could never have too much power bolted into a recreational RC truck. 🤣

I was late to the brushless party, being a petrol/nitro head - but these rigs are Savage aren't they?!

The torque from them - instant torque - that tears everything up if you're not careful is insane.

But it's such good fun though, innit! 😝
 
Yes - 6S is 'more than adequate'. I say this as a person that once thought you could never have too much power bolted into a recreational RC truck. 🤣

I was late to the brushless party, being a petrol/nitro head - but these rigs are Savage aren't they?!

The torque from them - instant torque - that tears everything up if you're not careful is insane.

But it's such good fun though, innit! 😝
Yeah man!! I was a nitro guy too back in the day. Once I saw what Lipo batteries had to offer, I dropped the nitro's like a good habit!!😉🤣🤣
Savage is a good term for what these things are indeed!!😮😁🍻
 
I'm in similar boat, when I was last in car side of hobby NiMh was best you could get and even then lot ran NiCd still, brushless and lipos had just begun to appear as I quit hobby, they was super expensive and not really any better at time, Nitro was deffo way to go back then on 8th buggies and truggies

About 5 years before I got back into cars I started flying planes, was insane difference to me then, getting 2200 3S packs for around £10 and brushless motors for like £8, obviously on car side things are bit more expensive but certainly cheaper then NiMh days
 
I'm in similar boat, when I was last in car side of hobby NiMh was best you could get and even then lot ran NiCd still, brushless and lipos had just begun to appear as I quit hobby, they was super expensive and not really any better at time, Nitro was deffo way to go back then on 8th buggies and truggies

About 5 years before I got back into cars I started flying planes, was insane difference to me then, getting 2200 3S packs for around £10 and brushless motors for like £8, obviously on car side things are bit more expensive but certainly cheaper then NiMh days
100%. The NiCaf & NiMH cells I used buy back in the day had to be really well matched to race at regional and national levels. They lacked punch otherwise. Then depending on the class, you had to choose wisely between Panasonic or Sanyo. Later with NiNH, you had to get GP cells which were good and punchy.

The cells came with labels and a graph. £££.

Machine matched cells were cheaper, but it's all about that 4% difference in punch.... 🤣

Now, we laugh about it - Lipos changed everything. 👍
 
100%. The NiCaf & NiMH cells I used buy back in the day had to be really well matched to race at regional and national levels. They lacked punch otherwise. Then depending on the class, you had to choose wisely between Panasonic or Sanyo. Later with NiNH, you had to get GP cells which were good and punchy.

The cells came with labels and a graph. £££.

Machine matched cells were cheaper, but it's all about that 4% difference in punch.... 🤣

Now, we laugh about it - Lipos changed everything. 👍
They did, I miss noise and smell of nitro but nothing beats the instant power and ease of use with electric, I wish it was cheaper to convert a Losi 5ive T over to electric cause I'd give that a bash, tho I'll probably end up with a DBXL E 2.0 soon, if they don't keep increasing price anyway lol
 
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