The ultimate waterproofing solution

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But the pins seem exposed to me, and if water doesn't get on the board, the pins might start to rust. Besides, the receivers come in boxes that are usually protected or even in a balloon if there is no box (e.g. the legendary MT4-G3)
 
Manolis said:
But the pins seem exposed to me, and if water doesn't get on the board, the pins might start to rust. Besides, the receivers come in boxes that are usually protected or even in a balloon if there is no box (e.g. the legendary MT4-G3)
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brass doesn't rust only steel and iron rust. It can tarnish but that's why the pins and crimp terminals are gold plated. even if it does tarnish it's not structural like with rust and can be removed (but it won't if it's gold plated) "Waterproof" receiver boxes are usually merely water resistant, sometimes they are not resistant at all and are actually more like water collectors. Only Traxxas has truly waterproof boxes and they have that locked down under a patent that they aggressively enforce.

Balloons work but water can wick around the wires. Just potting the receiver is simple and is foolproof, water can't get into the receiver if it's sealed inside a block of epoxy.

Dielectric grease will keep water away from electrical contacts without affecting conductivity. You can find it at the auto parts store as "lightbulb grease". I know what you're thinking but the contact area squeezes the grease out. Two parallel flush copper or brass surfaces in contact are actually 95% air gap at the microscopic level. Under an electron microscope they look like a mountain range and the contact between the two is only where the peaks interfere. The pressure per square area here is actually incredibly high and squeezes out the grease into the microscopic air gap.
 
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Don’t really plan on submerging mine but survive getting covered in snow as wet as mine gonna get all I need them to do.

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Around here driving in winter basically means driving though deep puddles even on asphalt.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Why isn't everyone doing this already? Why weren't they doing it years ago?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/flysky...nel-receiver-long-antenna-fsy-fbr8-l/p1565391

No plastic shell, instead the PCB is entombed in a block of epoxy, 100% waterproof, rated for 3 meters deep up to 30 minutes.
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When I worked in the oil and gas industry, this is basically how all atex intrinsically safe devices were constructed, walkie talkies, mobile phones, plbs, all the electronics was basically encased in a flame retardant waterproof epoxy casing.
 
Atomic Skull said:
brass doesn't rust only steel and iron rust. It can tarnish but that's why the pins and crimp terminals are gold plated. even if it does tarnish it's not structural like with rust and can be removed (but it won't if it's gold plated) "Waterproof" receiver boxes are usually merely water resistant, sometimes they are not resistant at all and are actually more like water collectors. Only Traxxas has truly waterproof boxes and they have that locked down under a patent that they aggressively enforce.

Balloons work but water can wick around the wires. Just potting the receiver is simple and is foolproof, water can't get into the receiver if it's sealed inside a block of epoxy.

Dielectric grease will keep water away from electrical contacts without affecting conductivity. You can find it at the auto parts store as "lightbulb grease". I know what you're thinking but the contact area squeezes the grease out. Two parallel flush copper or brass surfaces in contact are actually 95% air gap at the microscopic level. Under an electron microscope they look like a mountain range and the contact between the two is only where the peaks interfere. The pressure per square area here is actually incredibly high and squeezes out the grease into the microscopic air gap.
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That traxxas patent is the biggest croc of poop to grace the patent office, how they signed off on a plastic box with a rubber seal and membrane blows my mind . There are quite literally a million similar rubber sealed plastic enclosures in hundreds of other industries, applications and devices that are not RC.
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Tommyguns89 said:
Just curious what was the temps during your snow bash? Im curious. I just got a Kronos off ebay and it's 20°F where I'm sadly located lol. I don't want to risk a battery getting messed up or more expensive stuff
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Degrees Celsius here today’s temps , yesterday probably the same when had Kronos out, I had buggy out today on the paddle tires & managed to thermal the esc 😅. Took the Kronos out on mt tires feckers came unglued. Battery’s be ok to run in cold just won’t offer same performance maybe slightly shorter runtime. If can go straight from charge to running them puts a bit of heat into them prior to running can help.

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Thank you @Nelson.81 seems to be the same temp here too lol freezing my jiblets off! You think the cold affected your feckin tires? Also wheres the body of your Kronos from?? Ill admit it's sharper then the original body..IMO LOL
 
I don’t often run mt tires think that’s maybe 3rd time using them been lying in a box so idk could been temps or just glue was old probably needed fresh layer applied. It’s sworkz falcon bruggy body, it’s not the cheapest, LFR leadfinger probably cheaper option they just didn’t have a uk supplier where I ordered & shipping made it more expensive than sworkz but I prefer the sworkz bit more space for Lipo. But here’s link to LFR Mugen mbx8t prob best fit.

https://www.eventurerc.co.uk/shop

Sworkz

https://answer-rc.com/s35-t2-option...22.html?search_query=Sworkz+bruggy+&results=2

My Asuga build I’m maybe going to use LFR body or possibly JConcepts f2 for sledge if want another option
https://jconcepts.net/f2--traxxas-sledge-body

 
Tommyguns89 said:
Just curious what was the temps during your snow bash? Im curious. I just got a Kronos off ebay and it's 20°F where I'm sadly located lol. I don't want to risk a battery getting messed up or more expensive stuff
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I was running my TC at -2c this week , first time the batteries have come back cool to the touch and unpuffed 😅
 
Tommyguns89 said:
Just curious what was the temps during your snow bash? Im curious. I just got a Kronos off ebay and it's 20°F where I'm sadly located lol. I don't want to risk a battery getting messed up or more expensive stuff
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Keep the batteries warm in your house or car on the way to the bash area of destruction so that the batteries can dump current fast. Too much heat does more damage to the LiPo's. It's the plastics you need to worry about. My ultra reliable spark kicked a front A arm today. First time breaking an A arm in that car. No hinge pins bent, no pillow balls bent, just ate the A arm. It wasn't even a super bad crash, just a dead sailor from like 5 feet up, but sideways landing.

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danl said:
Keep the batteries warm in your house or car on the way to the bash area of destruction so that the batteries can dump current fast. Too much heat does more damage to the LiPo's. It's the plastics you need to worry about. My ultra reliable spark kicked a front A arm today. First time breaking an A arm in that car. No hinge pins bent, no pillow balls bent, just ate the A arm. It wasn't even a super bad crash, just a dead sailor from like 5 feet up, but sideways landing.

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I gotta be honest, the plastics in the cold worried me when I was out, I changed my driving style in subzero temps trying to focus more on driving ability and agility and not so much out and out bashing.
 
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