Radix Syncro wheel nut won't loosen

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tailing

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Hi, I just received my brand new Syncro, first thing I've done is take the wheels off and one of the four wheel nuts won't loosen. It seems that the hex is rotating, the dog bone etc is rotating, I'm new to this hobby but I guess this means it's stripping the inside of the rim?

Any suggestions for getting the wheel off, I thought maybe I could disassemble the suspension, use a small screwdriver or something to sit inside the axel and hold it in place while I try to loosen the nut. Even then I'm assuming the wheel is already ruined.

I haven't even been able to give the buggy a run yet which is a major bummer :(
 
It’s been an issue them being too tight, heat gun, or hairdryer on it try soften it up, maybe even dip it boiling water try get it off, then reem it out a little afterwards.
 
Nelson.81 said:
It’s been an issue them being too tight, heat gun, or hairdryer on it try soften it up, maybe even dip it boiling water try get it off, then reem it out a little afterwards.
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I think you mean people having trouble getting the wheels off the hex adapter? This is a different problem, I can't actually undo the wheel nut, if I hold the wheel and turn the nut the whole drive train rotates.

Incidentally, the three wheels I have gotten off come off the hex adapter fairly easily so that issue seems to have been resolved with the Syncro.
 
tailing said:
I think you mean people having trouble getting the wheels off the hex adapter? This is a different problem, I can't actually undo the wheel nut, if I hold the wheel and turn the nut the whole drive train rotates.

Incidentally, the three wheels I have gotten off come off the hex adapter fairly easily so that issue seems to have been resolved with the Syncro.
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Strange one a wheel stripping without being run, maybe pin in the hex has broken. Take shock off should give enough room movement to get dog bone out or too work at it.
 
I was able to get the wheel off, undid the top shock mount and camber link which let me get the dog bone out. I could then use a flat head screw driver to hold the axel firm as I undid the wheel nut. The wheel doesn't seem to be stripped at all and everything else looks undamaged so I'm a bit perplexed.

It seems I will have to be careful not to over tighten this wheel nut, if I do the same thing happens again, maybe the wheel where it sits on the hex is not quite right.
 
tailing said:
I was able to get the wheel off, undid the top shock mount and camber link which let me get the dog bone out. I could then use a flat head screw driver to hold the axel firm as I undid the wheel nut. The wheel doesn't seem to be stripped at all and everything else looks undamaged so I'm a bit perplexed.

It seems I will have to be careful not to over tighten this wheel nut, if I do the same thing happens again, maybe the wheel where it sits on the hex is not quite right.
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If you're holding the wheel still and turning the nut - and you can see the dogbone turning, that suggests your wheel hex has stripped?

But now it isn't?

Bizarre.

Glad you got it sorted though.
 
I thought I should give an update, as I said I didn't think there was any stripping of the wheel hex but when I compared to the other wheels I could see the offending wheel wasn't quite right. I had already emailed TC and after sending them a couple photos they've sent me some new wheels free of charge. I'm very happy with their customer service.

I've attached a pic, it doesn't look like much but it was enough to cause this issue, the other left side wheel was similar so I guess something happened in manufacturing. It's hard to see but there's a little indent on each face, like it's been tightened down when not aligned or forcibly rotated a little on the hub.

Left Rear.jpg
 
I'd put blue locite on my wheel nuts, and I removed the wheels later fine no problem, put them back on, and didn't touch them for a while then wanted to remove them and as above the whole nut was turning inside the wheel, cos the locite had got really really tight, I got two off by force but the other two I had to hacksaw off to finally access the nut to hold it properly to undo the wheel nut ~ never ever again am I using blue locite (red locite is permanent but blue should just hold nut on, but will undo!!!!!)
 
Bluecray said:
I'd put blue locite on my wheel nuts, and I removed the wheels later fine no problem, put them back on, and didn't touch them for a while then wanted to remove them and as above the whole nut was turning inside the wheel, cos the locite had got really really tight, I got two off by force but the other two I had to hacksaw off to finally access the nut to hold it properly to undo the wheel nut ~ never ever again am I using blue locite (red locite is permanent but blue should just hold nut on, but will undo!!!!!)
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Just get a set of serrated wheel nuts, maybe time to try a different sets of wheels.
 
I don't recommend putting loctite on wheel nuts.

Firstly - for the reason described above by Bluecray. 😝

Secondly - it's asking for the loctite to do horrible things to your plastic wheel, right at the hex, where you least need it to go weird and brittle!

Get closed, serrated wheel nuts, and pinch them up. You shouldn't really need excessive amounts of torque for them to stay put.

As a bonus, the closed wheel nuts will stop crud from getting into your grub screw that holds the pin for your hub. 👍 Win win.

Nelson.81 said:
Just get a set of serrated wheel nuts, maybe time to try a different sets of wheels.
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You pipped me to the post!! 🤣
 
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