Asuga Stub axle issue

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Naibiru

Naibiru

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I'm having a consistent issue with the CVD pin ripping out of the front Stub axle and damaging the hole making them useless. I've replaced them 4 times now and it's getting frustrating. 3 of the 4 times happened without a crash. It wouldn't be so bad if Corally sold their CVDs in parts like every other brand, but they only sell the whole drive shaft making it an expensive fix every time.

I've already tried replacing them with Traxxas or Arrma stub axles, but as you would expect, they don't fit.

Any ideas would be awesome.
 
I reduced the front shock travel and steering end points. If you take a good look at the knuckles, you can see that the holes where the pillow balls go into the knuckles, are in a downward angle. Too much steering and shock travel make the arms of the pillow balls touch the knuckles. It is particularly clear when you move the wheels to left and right. The arms lift when the angle is too big.
Also the front drive shafts touch the edges of the drive cups when the travel of the arms is too much.
Reduce the angles the CVD's make and you will have less problems.
 
Reduce shock travel with the droop screws and some bump stops on the shock shafts.
Reduce steering end points. Less angle on the cvd's will reduce your problems.
Another reason to do this, is that the arms of the pillow balls touch the knuckles and lift the arms, affecting steering. Reducing caster by moving the upper arm shims to the rear also helps.

Edit: i had trouble posting this. Sorry for the double reply
 
Like others have said, make sure the cvd aren’t binding during use. I like to put the model on a stand and run the motor to spin everything while watching the wheels/suspension turning full left/right. If they’re binding you should be able to see it happening. Then dial the endpoints of the steering down till they stop binding at full input.
 
I think suspension issues usually show at the inboard area of the cvd, where the shaft is actually contacting the diff output cup. It’ll wear a shiny ring around the shaft, then eventually either the cvd breaks or the output cup.
In your case since it’s the outbord (hub) end of the cvd I think your steering is not set correctly. The wheels are turning too far. Need to adjust your steering end points to prevent this. Just guessing here since I have no way to tell without seeing it in action.
 
I still have original cvd’s on my 5 year old Kronos. They seem plenty strong IMO.
 
Thanks for the responses. That's about what I expected to see, minus the bump stop idea. I've already tweeted these things without much luck. At best it delays the break, but still happens.
I have an eight year old Typhon still on it's original driveshafts and it has all the steering in the world.

And again this wouldn't be nearly as bad if I didn't have to buy the whole dang Driveshaft every time. If i ever bend one, i got plenty of spares.
I'm just keep trying stuff i guess. It's the best RC beyond this annoying problem.
 
KnowAir said:
I still have original cvd’s on my 5 year old Kronos. They seem plenty strong IMO.
Click to expand...
That's interesting. I haven't seen a Kronos with the problem. But I just watched Thunder RC's lastes video with the Kagama and he had the same break I have.
 
Naibiru said:
That's interesting. I haven't seen a Kronos with the problem. But I just watched Thunder RC's lastes video with the Kagama and he had the same break I have.
Click to expand...
What part is breaking? The stub itself or the yoke of the cvd?
 
Does the Asuga use short or long hubs/stub axles?
 
Buggies typically use short and the trucks or truggies use the long ones. Not sure about the Asuga?
 
I did some searching, buggy. I figured as much but wasn’t sure. With that said, the Asuga uses the same stub and hub as all the newer 6s buggies. Difference of course is the actual driveshaft being in between buggy and truck lengths.
If it’s the actual driveshaft bending, Arrma Mojove 6s might be close, I have one, I can measure it when I get a chance.
 
KnowAir said:
I still have original cvd’s on my 5 year old Kronos. They seem plenty strong IMO.
Click to expand...
Same. I have had good use out of mine - and I've seen the videos of you rippin' around. You don't exactly baby it.

I think the driveshaft popping out is usually to do with power being transmitted past the maximum angle the driveshaft can operate at.

Do the stock radios have endpoint adjustments or actual travel volume? It would help if they did. If they do, it's about time people start using them. 🤣

It would help save RTR servos (shhh!) and stop rigs from losing driveshafts.
 
Horatio said:
Same. I have had good use out of mine - and I've seen the videos of you rippin' around. You don't exactly baby it.

I think the driveshaft popping out is usually to do with power being transmitted past the maximum angle the driveshaft can operate at.

Do the stock radios have endpoint adjustments or actual travel volume? It would help if they did. If they do, it's about time people start using them. 🤣

It would help save RTR servos (shhh!) and stop rigs from losing driveshafts.
Click to expand...
They have dual rate dial. But I'm using a Radio link with all the adjustments, so that's not an issue.
 
I measured 110mm center to center of the cvd pins, barrel diameter 6mm, barrel length 10mm.

IMG_0189.webp


IMG_0190.webp


IMG_0192.webp
 
This is a cvd from my Mojo 6s EXB which is at least 4 years old. Gots some miles on her, original parts.
 
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