Steering links binding

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Atomic Skull

Atomic Skull

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Anyone else notice that on the Asuga the steering ball links start to bind at low droop close to the steering limits? Move the droop up and this stops happening. It is because the angle of the balls on the levers on the hubs exceed 40 degrees vs the plane of the ball link on the end of the steering link and touch the plastic. I think if I flipped the ball up to the other side it would lower the angle of the link enough to prevent this. Any reason I can't do this? Would it have a negative effect on handling?

EDIT I have my steering limits set to below where the suspension pivot balls would bind on the hubs btw so that's not a problem.
 
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I can't see why it wouldn't work. The effective length of the steering link will change, hence changing the toe a little. Since you'll be doing both sides the same, steering angle changes as the suspension compress/extends will be equal for the left/right sides.
Toe changes and overall throw won't be a problem for adjustable links, but solid links might not be suitable.
Try it, check for any clashes or binding through the full articulation, see how you like it.
 
Atomic Skull said:
Anyone else notice that on the Asuga the steering ball links start to bind at low droop close to the steering limits? Move the droop up and this stops happening. It is because the angle of the balls on the levers on the hubs exceed 40 degrees vs the plane of the ball link on the end of the steering link and touch the plastic. I think if I flipped the ball up to the other side it would lower the angle of the link enough to prevent this. Any reason I can't do this? Would it have a negative effect on handling?

EDIT I have my steering limits set to below where the suspension pivot balls would bind on the hubs btw so that's not a problem.
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I’m guessing but it could be the Ackerman hitting the diff case I’ve had this issue, just not great clearance both my buggy & truck. But my Ackerman can also hits the arms which feels like binding but it only when on stand in bench fine when on ground

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Nelson.81 said:
I’m guessing but it could be the Ackerman hitting the diff case I’ve had this issue, just not great clearance both my buggy & truck. But my Ackerman can also hits the arms which feels like binding but it only when on stand in bench fine when on ground
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It only happens at full droop, if the droop is decreased it goes away completely. Also I can see where the "stem" of the top of the ball is touching the side of the hole in the steering link at it approaches the steering limit at full droop. My solution for now is to reduce the droop by about 1.5cm but I dislike having to do that

I might give these a try, they lack the stem on top that's binding. Also the neck is a bit narrower.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334241526364?

compare to the original balls:

https://corally.com/en/product/C-00180-150/team-corally-ball-68mm-shouldered-steel-4-pcs

I might need to shim them by about 1mm to match the original ball elevation but I have a whole selection of m3x5mm aluminum shims.

EDIT: That actually could also be it I'll check it later.
 
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Now I'm wondering if maybe I just had too much steering set, I had the wheels off and noticed a bit of "cogging" in the CVDs at the steering extremes when I turned the wheel hubs by hand. Lowered the droop again and backed off a little bit to just before where the binding happens at full droop, and it went away, the wheels no longer tip up on their sides excessively at full left/right steering and turning radius doesn't seem affected much.

I also noticed some CVD cogging at full droop on the rear CVDs, the factory set droop is too much I guess.
 
With so many people losing the CVD's, i would not set the front arms at full droop. I have only lost one CVD, and that was when i sent the Asuga off a ramp. I have no problems when i am doing my usual mild bashing.
Also at full droop you get what you are posting about here. The edge of the hub touching the arm and lifting the wheel.

Edit: When i bought my 2nd Asuga, they said it was used once by Team Corally for a video. The car was set up exactly as my first one, with the droop and EPA set to avoid just this. So, i guess we are at the right track here. I have not changed anything on that car, except for a larger motor and Mojave shocks
 
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Atomic Skull said:
Now I'm wondering if maybe I just had too much steering set, I had the wheels off and noticed a bit of "cogging" in the CVDs at the steering extremes when I turned the wheel hubs by hand. Lowered the droop again and backed off a little bit to just before where the binding happens at full droop, and it went away, the wheels no longer tip up on their sides excessively at full left/right steering and turning radius doesn't seem affected much.

I also noticed some CVD cogging at full droop on the rear CVDs, the factory set droop is too much I guess.
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Ok sorry wife wanted some daddy time, anyways what I did was the slightly machine the rack belly side so it wouldn’t ride on that output shaft. I think I have my test piece still ( factory ) was replacing with 7075 and I’d bent it anyways. I’ll grab once the wife wakes up and post a pic for ya
 
SirCrashALot said:
With so many people losing the CVD's, i would not set the front arms at full droop. I have only lost one CVD, and that was when i sent the Asuga off a ramp. I have no problems when i am doing my usual mild bashing.
Also at full droop you get what you are posting about here. The edge of the hub touching the arm and lifting the wheel.

Edit: When i bought my 2nd Asuga, they said it was used once by Team Corally for a video. The car was set up exactly as my first one, with the droop and EPA set to avoid just this. So, i guess we are at the right track here. I have not changed anything on that car, except for a larger motor and Mojave shocks
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It's not at full droop, I replaced the droop screws with Hobao ones that have wide flat slightly rounded heads to prevent the stock setscrews from eating holes in the chassis so even "full" droop isn't actually full droop anymore because of the screw head. I've set it to be a bit higher than that and equalized the droop in the front and rear. The rear allows for significantly more droop than the front and I don't think CVD binding is really possible with excessive droop in the front arms, just from excessive steering angle.

Also, the CVDs on my asuga have the old wire retaining clip that consists of several loops not the newer metal ring that seemed to be causing so many problems. It was purchased from RC Hobby Explosion so it's got to be recent and not old stock.

Part of the problem may be that the ADU steering blocks allow for more steering angle than the stock ones, it can actually turn so far now that the steering link binds on the lower suspension arm.
 
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Atomic Skull said:
It's not at full droop, I replaced the droop screws with Hobao ones that have wide flat slightly rounded heads to prevent the stock setscrews from eating holes in the chassis so even "full" droop isn't actually full droop anymore because of the screw head. I've set it to be a bit higher than that and equalized the droop in the front and rear. The rear allows for significantly more droop than the front and I don't think CVD binding is really possible with excessive droop in the front arms, just from excessive steering angle.

Also, the CVDs on my asuga have the old wire retaining clip that consists of several loops not the newer metal ring that seemed to be causing so many problems. It was purchased from RC Hobby Explosion so it's got to be recent and not old stock.

Part of the problem may be that the ADU steering blocks allow for more steering angle than the stock ones, it can actually turn so far now that the steering link binds on the lower suspension arm.
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Ok sorry for the delay now this is the stock unit and where I got my idea from. Top stock bottom is TC 7075 you can see the wear area very easily. The first time I tried was to thin the area where the wear is horizontally, no go still kept hitting some to where I was scared I’d have to thin to much. The TC rack is slightly slimmer so next I shaved like a U vertically measuring the wear areas. Now I don't bash hard but so far the steering feel so much better and no wear spots that I can see on the front input cup to the diff. Now I do have the customized TC 7075 in the buddy now again so far so good

image.webp
 
shortround9191 said:
Ok sorry for the delay now this is the stock unit and where I got my idea from. Top stock bottom is TC 7075 you can see the wear area very easily. The first time I tried was to thin the area where the wear is horizontally, no go still kept hitting some to where I was scared I’d have to thin to much. The TC rack is slightly slimmer so next I shaved like a U vertically measuring the wear areas. Now I don't bash hard but so far the steering feel so much better and no wear spots that I can see on the front input cup to the diff. Now I do have the customized TC 7075 in the buddy now again so far so good
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Ok so I just checked and that's not the problem. On the Asuga that part is in front of the differential housing and over the drive cup with about 1~2mm of clearance. At no point does it touch anything. It's definitely the link binding on the ball stem at high droop.
 
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